Foshon's Big and Tall

[foshon]

I'm going to post the highlights. I have a working MendelMax so the build will include some printed upgrades. Enjoy!

1. Picture of my motor/belt interface cavity. Notice the black spoked spacers are not the hubcaps detailed in the manual. This screwed me up for a bit, I eventually woke up and counted parts and realized my error.

2. Picture of where I plan on mounting my RAMBo (I may decide to switch to RAMPS, we will see). I plan on installing it on the right side of the picture, behind the motor. No wire extensions should be needed.


1.
[img]http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8391/8570574367_7ff9cbaa20_n.jpg[/img]
IMG_3249 by foshon, on Flickr

2.
[img]http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8375/8570575893_30c6fc8cfc_n.jpg[/img]
IMG_3250 by foshon, on Flickr

[cassetti]

Black hubcaps?? My black rostock shipped with regular aluminum ones.... Crazy, mine only shipped 2 weeks ago!

[TheMOX]

The current kits come with the black finned spacers that snap nicely in place. (or at least in the 15 kits we saw this weekend)

[foshon]

I have these paint markers (like giant crayons) laying around from work. I decided to fill the lettering in on my black MAX to make it easier to read. I think the change is fairly impressive. One could ask for a sample of a stick or two a few years ago, I do not know if they still offer the service.

http://www.markal.com/solid-paint-markers/c-paintstik/

[img]http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8506/8573105421_7325e85211_n.jpg[/img]
IMG_3253 by foshon, on Flickr

[img]http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8370/8574201444_9ce9d7e7f5_n.jpg[/img]
IMG_3254 by foshon, on Flickr

[Av8r RC]

Is it like a grease pencil?

[Flateric]

I did the exact same thing with all my parts before assembly just so it was easily read and clear when I assembled.

I used a white "paint pen" and wiped immediately after marking so that the color stayed in the laser cut grooves only.

[foshon]

It applies like one, but dries like paint. I originally brought these home to fill in the selector switch markings on my AR.

Is it like a grease pencil?

[foshon]

Things are moving forward quite well. I had a couple of missing parts, John and Julie have been totally cool about getting them to me more quickly then I could have ever asked for! Thanks for that!

The first picture is of Av8rRC's spacers for the filament spool holder (Link at end of post). I decided to print these before assembly so I would not have to disassemble later. The second picture is of a convenient use for the spool axle during assembly.

1. [img]http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8387/8579107929_042d5ce501_n.jpg[/img]
IMG_3263 by foshon, on Flickr

2. [img]http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8100/8580203430_fb9530484f_n.jpg[/img]
IMG_3259 by foshon, on Flickr



Link: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:60322

[foshon]

I managed to get my axle and pivots sorted out this week ( I think). I'm considering ordering another set of plastic pivots just in case I messed them up. I torn down the supplied power unit and started modding it. I chose to desolder and remove all the extra wiring. All that is left is what will be used. I can assure you there is no solder shortage wherever this thing was made. I also ordered my 24V unit for the bed. I ordered some other stuff including 14 guage stranded hook up wire, some fuse blocks and a power switch/recept. combo.

I think I have the RAMbo where I want it; I had to drill a hole into the base to allow for the usb to connect. I'm good with that becuase I don't plan on mucking about the firmware all to often. I started on my cheapskate carriages but stopped short of finishing the base as I would like to have the wiring sorted before I close it up.

I also drew and printed my very first part! I have absolutely no design experience so I took a couple days to download and learn how to use Autodesk 123d. I made a model of the wrap around cover screw panel. I noticed many of my fellow MAXers use these to mount parts. I think it's a good idea. Since I suck with a drill and jigsaw, I drew two replacement panels. One to mount my recept combo in and another for the panel mount fuses. I'm considering doing one more for a LED light array with inlayed labels, but I think I'l wait to see how my first two turn out. I included a picture of the plain support I printed in red ABS on my MM. It's just oversized enough to require a light filing to fit (lighter than the pivot sockets, lol).

I built the filament support yesterday. I really appreciate the design aspect of it. It has very sexy curves (if a printer can have such a thing). I'm including a picture of the previously mentioned spacer blocks in their mounted position.

Im also including photos of how I mounted my LCD panel. I like it but I need to get some shorter screws for mounting the faceplate as I do not want the bolts to reach the board. I feel this location does a good job of presenting the panel for use while hiding all the unused cutouts. I did have to drill out the two holes used for the through bolt as well as file out the sd card slot to get it to fit.

Photos for the past few days:

[img]http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8225/8581567753_104a581f21_n.jpg[/img]
IMG_3265 by foshon, on Flickr


[img]http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8095/8583957120_b872812df4_n.jpg[/img]
IMG_3270 by foshon, on Flickr

[img]http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8388/8584297951_f38083ae58_n.jpg[/img]
smldelta by foshon, on Flickr

[img]http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8392/8584518752_34f3d98d7e_n.jpg[/img]
IMG_3268 by foshon, on Flickr

[img]http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8235/8584317555_a9d42d6151_n.jpg[/img]
plainsideclose by foshon, on Flickr

[img]http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8241/8585426612_46c4fcdca6_n.jpg[/img]
mount by foshon, on Flickr

[img]http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8384/8584320557_2a9bc0d021_n.jpg[/img]
sdcardsideclose by foshon, on Flickr

[foshon]

With all the trouble others are having right now, I decided to load up the firmware and test my LCD. Yay!! it works. I believe this is a double sided board. This would mean that in some cases solder must flow all the way through the hole the pin rests in. I use a 750 degree iron and let it sit an extra second on the pad before applying solder. I do not know that the board is double sided, but if it is getting both side at once is very important.


[img]http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8365/8588585757_a146ed862a_n.jpg[/img]
LCD working!! by foshon, on Flickr

[Eaglezsoar]

I did the exact same thing with all my parts before assembly just so it was easily read and clear when I assembled.

I used a white "paint pen" and wiped immediately after marking so that the color stayed in the laser cut grooves only.

Do you remember which paint pen you used? There is a lot of them on Amazon but I have no idea which of them works the best for
this application. When you wipe it off do you use anything special so as not to remove the paint from the grooves?

[Flateric]

It was a white acrylic paint paint from the art store, but I had also tried a silver sharpie before it and that worked good too, however I had to give the part a quick wipe with 99% isopropol immediately after. This took off the surface silver and left the white or silver in the groves.

In the past I have used kids crayons and pencil crayons for the same effect.

White crayon is the easiest and most trouble free. Also seems to last the best, but I had no crayons around.

[foshon]

I printed another modified screw panel to mount the power panel. It works well, although I had to remove the counter pressure plates from the device as they bowed the ABS on the panel quite a bit. A bit of epoxy on the backside holds it in just fine. From here the power goes into the terminal strip (behind the panel) and then gets split between the two power supplies.

I also mounted the heatsinks on the stepper chips. I have done this on several stepper boards now, never had any heat issues on the board. I use the stuff in the link at the bottom of the post. It is completly non conductive, so there is no worry of overflow shorting the chips. Highly recommend it!


[img]http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8380/8599445947_a6b0385a23_n.jpg[/img]
outletweb by foshon, on Flickr



[img]http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8237/8600564736_70b98828df_n.jpg[/img]
heatsinks by foshon, on Flickr



http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.a ... 6835100013

[geneb]

If I understand what you did there, you basically printed an ABS version of the melamine part that goes in that same location? Cool.

g.

[Eaglezsoar]

Nice job! You should put an STL on Thingiverse. A lot of us could use one of those and the source for the switch and plugin.
Your Avatar is giving me nightmares!

Carl

[Eaglezsoar]

Could you give me a source for that AC socket and switch? Thanks!

Carl

[foshon]

My first thing!!

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:67537

Part numbers for the stuff are located on the thingi page. I got them from Jameco so I listed the Jameco part numbers, I am sure they available elsewhere.

Thanks for the kind words!

[Eaglezsoar]

I'm glad you got your first thing!

Carl

[foshon]

Is it awkward that I touch it alot?

[Eaglezsoar]

Naw, many men do.

[mhackney]

Nice thing, I'll add it to the Ultimate Rostock Collection!

[foshon]

I started to put my belts on this week and broke a clamp. Honestly I was not very happy with the tensioner system on the machine. I ended up printing some single bar clamps to mount the belt. The clamps will hold the belt by themselves, but I mesh the teeth and wire tie it together just to make sure.


[img]http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8256/8625860464_b12822a4d3_n.jpg[/img]
Untitled by foshon, on Flickr



Thing can be downloaded here:

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:70645

[ApacheXMD]

Your belt doesnt scrape on the table with it out that far?
Also arent you going to run into linearity issues with the belt in a un-straight path like that?

[foshon]

Double tap

[foshon]

Your belt doesnt scrape on the table with it out that far?
Also arent you going to run into linearity issues with the belt in a un-straight path like that?

The linearity of the carriage is determined by the cheapskates, the belts just have to move it up and down. I lost about an inch of travel at the dead bottom of the carriage due to the angle. I asked in another thread (see link) how far these move down in thier maximum range and if the answers are correct (which I have no reason believe they aren't) bottom travel is limited to around 4" from the printing surface. I can get the belts in this setup (what feels to me) far tighter then they need to be without potentionally damaging the structure. If it doesn't pan out I'll change it and delete the thing.

This is actually the second interation of a belt attachment method for me. The first one I designed clamped the belts in-line and used a bolt to apply tension on the backside of the extrusion. I printed and installed the first one only to find out that it hit the cheapskate on its way up. A "Duurr!" moment to say the least.\

Edit: Linky http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=1446