Damian's Rostock Max V2 build

[DGBK]

I got my kit a few weeks back, and I'm building pretty slow so far. I live in Thailand, so it isn't always easy to find everything I need. I can always order from online, but customs are a crap shoot at best when it comes to import taxes.

I'm currently on the stepper motor step, and I have my second question. I couldn't find any loctite blue thread locker. What I found was medium strength M22 thread locker from three bond. I'm fairly certain this is fine, but I want to make sure it isn't too strong.

Does anyone have any experience with this stuff? I want to upgrade to dampers eventually. Will I be able to adjust my gears on the motor shafts if I use this?

The first question was how to crimp the spade terminal. The way it's bent, I can't see a way to crimp it without ruining the other side. I don't understand why it is T shaped.

I decided to solder thI see wires to the switch. Does that seem acceptable?

Any thoughts or suggestions are very welcome.

Thanks
Damian

[mvansomeren]

I don't have an answer to your question about the thread locker but as far as soldering the crimp connectors, that is exactly what I did. I don't trust crimp connectors so every connector (except the hotend resistor wires) was soldered in my build.

[Eaglezsoar]

The medium strength thread lock compound will work fine. I would not use the high strength variety.

[DGBK]

It turns out there is a sheer strength listed on the back of the package for the thread locker, and after some calculations, it is about 3x stronger than the blue loctite. I think I will just have to wait until I can find some other kind of thread locker. It looks like I can put together the top plate while I'm waiting for the dampers and trying to find some alternative thread locker.

[DGBK]

I'm about to upload some pictures, but I don't want it to look annoyingly large. Does anyone have a good suggestion for a maximum pixel size?

[IMBoring25]

I generally use 800 pixels wide for general-purpose posting-on-the-internet purposes. With 1024x768 resolution still having around 20% market share, more than that will likely lead to horizontal scrolling for a significant number of users. If it's something for which evaluating detail is critical to understanding, more might be appropriate.

[DGBK]

Thanks for the suggestion. Here are some pictures.

Power Supply Attached

Motors attached to mounts

Here the base is closer to Being completed

My first real soldering work. It didn't turn out too bad.

Here I've routed the wires and attached the towers.

Finally got the hotend wired and the arms attached. If I hadn't scaled the picture down so far, you might be able to tell I inverted a couple of the arms. I already went back to fix those after my first calibration fail.

[DGBK]

If anyone has any ideas to help me with http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=8564 please don't hesitated to share them. I'm so close to being able to print my first object.

[DGBK]

Well, I made my second mod to my printer to cut down on the noise. I added some zip ties to keep the binder clips from vibrating. What I'll probably do is wrap some silicon tape around the handles the next time I take the glass plate off.

I also tried my first print. It didn't turn out like I'd hoped. I can't tell if the shroud was pulling up from the beginning, or if it is supposed to be slightly curled up near the front. Either way, I plan to calibrate my heated bed to see if I can get better adhesion on the second go round.

Here I've managed to stop the binder clips from vibrating by adding a tiny bit of tension.

Here is the beginning of the first print. It looks good at first.

Here is the first print zoomed in. It looks like the front right edge is slightly off the bed. Should this be flat?

About 75% of the way through the first print I saw the print had rotated 90 degrees and I started getting spaghetti.

Here is a picture of the fail from a different angle.

I only see a slight problem with the first layer, but I don't have trained eyes. Feel free to give advice.

One last picture. This extruder motor got really hot. They would have been impossible to hold for more than a few seconds. I have already made the firmware changes suggested in the manual. Is there something else I can do to keep this extruder cooler?

[gchristopher]

Is there something else I can do to keep this extruder cooler?

I grabbed 40mm heatsinks from RobotDigg, 40mm PC fans, and 60mm screws from McMaster Carr. They cool down stepper motors dramatically. (At least to my less-burned fingers!)

I need to take before-and-after heat readings on the extruder motor with the cheap IR thermometer and measure the difference.

[Eaglezsoar]

Is there something else I can do to keep this extruder cooler?

I grabbed 40mm heatsinks from RobotDigg, 40mm PC fans, and 60mm screws from McMaster Carr. They cool down stepper motors dramatically. (At least to my less-burned fingers!)

I need to take before-and-after heat readings on the extruder motor with the cheap IR thermometer and measure the difference.

Thanks for the link to the heatsinks, I've been looking for those.

[DGBK]

Is there something else I can do to keep this extruder cooler?

I grabbed 40mm heatsinks from RobotDigg, 40mm PC fans, and 60mm screws from McMaster Carr. They cool down stepper motors dramatically. (At least to my less-burned fingers!)

I need to take before-and-after heat readings on the extruder motor with the cheap IR thermometer and measure the difference.

Do you unscrew the back screws from the motors to attach those? I bought some cheap heat sinks at a local shop, but I was planning on using glue or epoxy to attach them. A clean surface screwed on seems like it would work better than glue that isn't specifically designed to be thermally conductive.