Welcome to the SeeMeCNC Community

I've been trying to get one of these boards for a few weeks with no success. When The SeemeCNC folks first got them in I posted here asking if I could preorder, with no response. As soon as they posted the boards on their indiegogo campaign I sent them the money for one and shorty after John posted them on the web store. I e-mailed the contact address and I sent John a message on the forums asking them to bill me for the shipping costs so I could get a board sent ASAP. That was over a week ago, and still no response.

Since placing my order with you guys, I was able to order a heated bed from China and received it yesterday. So now I won't be needing the heated bed I paid you guys for. Can I get a refund for my indiegogo contribution?

I want to buy one. Cheap chipping to Ukraine. Any ideas?

Dr, sorry we didnt see your email? We posted all over the forum and indiegogo about the few we had left from the initial order done by another member. We did just put in an order for 100 boards yesterday, and they should be here within 2wks.

We will be postung pics of the new boards when they arrive. tkl changed some wording a bit, added holes for zip tie strain relief for the wiring, and we went with the blue soldermask this time.

I can't confirm that you didn't see my e-mail but I do see my sent message here on the forums and you didn't reply to that either.

Can I get a refund for my indiegogo contribution? I no longer need the heated bed.

Once again, sorry for the email issue? I will let her know to refund your purchase.

Thanks for the material Leeway , its exactly what I was looking for. I haven't had a chance to try it out yet due the printer all tore apart for an upgrade i'm working on, but its fits nicely between the glass and plate and looks it will work great.

Is this thermistor that you are using for the bed?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-NTC-Thermist ... 1623wt_907

Thanks,
jim

***EDITED***


Nope, well, you might be able to, but it depends on how you are controlling the temps. If you are using a velleman board, use a 4K thermistor like we sell and supply (NOT the blue one that comes inside the velleman package) , and change R6 to a jumper, bypassing the resistor. If you are using a RAMPS setup or similar, I would recommend using a 100K thermistor, which we also have available.

Thanks,
I still need to work on how to make the heated bed so it won't warp the x axis bed so I still have a bit of time.
jim

jbinion wrote:Thanks,
I still need to work on how to make the heated bed so it won't warp the x axis bed so I still have a bit of time.
jim

As most others I use spacers, bolts and nylok nuts to attach the bed. Some folks use a thermal barrier, previously on this thread folks are using a McMaster-Carr item to reduce the heat transferred to the acrylic bed. The PCB heated bed is easy to mount, it has 8 holes that line up on the outside edge of the H-1's bed. I put the two together and drilled holes in the bed. Using a bolt and two nylok nuts I made the first plate that holds Phebe. Then just drop the bed on the H-1's bed and add more nylok nuts. I can take pictures tonight if you are interested in mounting options.

That would be awesome. I'm pretty close to finishing!

jbinion wrote:That would be awesome. I'm pretty close to finishing!

Hey Jbinion,

Here are some pictures and a quick description on how I mounted Phebe I.
The layers are from top to bottom: glass, Phebe I, 1/4" plywood, air gap (about 3/8"), 1/4" bed.
The bed was thickened to provide rigidity, I just glued another 1/8" plexi-glass plate to it, that's what the purple is, ABS/PVC cement.

The plastic glass retainers are the following from thingiverse.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:23387
I just printed 4 of each bed standoff and clamp (pick the size that best suites your glass)

I lined up the bed with Phebe and marked all the holes I needed to drill plus a few extra in the H-1 bed for strain relief for the wires.

Then I just used nylok nuts and bolts. The pictures show one bolt per hold with two nylok nuts under the glass/PCB/wood sandwich.
The front left plastic glass retainer was left off because the extruder tip homes there.

Alignment/leveling is really simple, just use pliers or wrench and screw driver and set the height of the eight bolts individually.

Sweet!! Than you!