Orion HE280 upgrade poor print quality

[sparkdaddy]

I recently updated my Orion to an HE280 hot end, molded carriages, new arms and an EZR struder. The installation went well and I think I got it all installed correctly but my print quality is not real great. I have tried to slow down the print speed and other steps in the slicer but still no luck. Any other tips out there for others who have went down this path?

Thanks

[geneb]

Did you update the Orion from the *original* SeeMeCNC hotend that was machined from PEEK? If so, did you also update the firmware to the current version that's on Github?

g.

[sparkdaddy]

Yes, I upgraded from the OG hot end. I did upgrade to the latest firmware as well. I purchased the HE280 assembled but noticed during trouble shooting that the heating block is loose. Any tips on how to tighten that heating block up without crushing the tube that goes down the middle of the hot end?

[geneb]

If the heater block is loose, then that's likely the cause of your quality problem. It could be that the nozzle just needs to be tightened - it tightens against the face of the heat break inside the heater block.

g.

[sparkdaddy]

Thanks, geneb. When upgrading the firmware, I am unsure how to determine these two values below for my machine in the Configuration.h file. How do I tell which Orion I have, earlier version or later version?




Locate the line "#define MOTHERBOARD". This tells the firmware what kind of hardware you have. The Rostock Max v1, v2, and v3 use the RAMBo (301). Eris and Orions after 8/1/2016 use the Mini-RAMBo (302)
Locate the line "#define Power_Supply". by default it is set to 2 (Brick or Rail Style PSU). On older models of Rostock Max v2 and Orions equiped with an ATX supply you will need to change this variable to 1

[sparkdaddy]

Just noticed another problem I am experiencing. I went back in to install the firmware again and was going to recalibrate. During the calibrate steps, I thew a G29 to the terminal and I am getting an accelerometer send i2c error. I saw in another of your posts from a few years ago you told somebody else to not use the G29 command in terminal but use the full calibration option from the front menu of the printer itself. When I try using the full calibration, I also receive an i2c error message on the front LED panel.

[geneb]

You might want to email [email protected] with your serial number - they should be able to tell you the date of manufacture of the machine.

The i2c error could indicate either a configuration issue or a wiring problem.

g.

[sparkdaddy]

I figured it out. The whip came with i2c wires with the black wire connected to the second spot in the 4 pin connecter and the red wire connected to the third spot in the 4 pin connecter. I placed the black wire to the far right slot and the red wire right next to it and it's running the full calibration sequence now from the LED panel. Trying out my test print now. Thanks for your assistance, it’s greatly appreciated!!

[sparkdaddy]

Semi-successful print, printed the bottom half of the print really well and then started to fail as it got to the upper area of the print.

[sparkdaddy]

Getting closer on dialing this in. First few layers are pretty good but then it all starts to fall apart as it moves up in the print. Any setting recommendations for something like this? This is just a cylinder test print.

[geneb]

It almost looks like wild temperature swings as the print height gets taller. Watch the temperature display on the front panel to see if it changes a lot. You might have an intermittent connection to the heater that is effected by the print height.

You might also try printing a 100mm circle about 3mm tall to see how that goes.

g.

[sparkdaddy]

I finally figured it out. My hobbed drive roller on my EZR struder was not aligned correctly on the motor pin. Makes sense being the filament was not flowing smoothly through the struder and causing my wacky prints. Thanks for all of your assistance, Gene, much appreciated!!

[geneb]

You're welcome!

g.