E-3D v5 for ORION

[int2str]

UPDATE 2013-12-20: E3D v5 hot-end was successfully installed
See this post for details: http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php ... 261#p25261" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

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What does it take to add an E-3D to the ORION?
Also, the E-3D kit seems to come in parts. Do I need PEEK or something to assemble it and put the thermistors in or something?

And do I need firmware changes?

Thx

[Nylocke]

You should have everything you need to assemble it. The ORION has the same carriage as the MAX, so you should be able to go to the E3D thread on the MAX forum and find an appropriate mount for your E3D. Theres a pretty cool one that I think edward designed.

[cope413]

I like 626Pilot's. It's nice and easily printable

[Nylocke]

http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php ... &start=170" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; its on this page. Oh duh it is 626Pilot's, Derp. Its pretty cool.

[int2str]

Can the mount be made out of ABS or does it have to be PLA?

[cope413]

Abs is fine... Probably even better because it won't get soft with heat.

[Eaglezsoar]

What does it take to add an E-3D to the ORION?
Also, the E-3D kit seems to come in parts. Do I need PEEK or something to assemble it and put the thermistors in or something?

And do I need firmware changes?

Thx

The E3D uses a thermistor just like the other hotends, they are all metal and have no peek plastic parts which is the key advantage
of an all metal hotend. There are two types, one has the Bowden tube and is nicer to setup, the other does not have the bowden
tube and requires a special mount where your existing bowden tube fastens to the top of the mount. I would purchase the bowden
version of the E3D and use this as the mount for it: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:137140" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
If you know that you are going to buy the bowden version of the E3D you would print the above mount before it arrives.
With the exception of Z height, I do not think any firmware changes are necessary. If someone knows if you need to
change the thermistor type in firmware please chime in here and advise.

[cope413]

Nope, no firmware changes. It also uses a 100k thermistor.

[Nylocke]

It is a different kind of thermistor, depending on when you get your E3D, they used to have EPCOS, but the one I got recently had a semitec, both 100k, but you might wanna change your firmware to reflect the correct one because your values will probably be further off if you use a different thermistor value.

[Eaglezsoar]

It is a different kind of thermistor, depending on when you get your E3D, they used to have EPCOS, but the one I got recently had a semitec, both 100k, but you might wanna change your firmware to reflect the correct one because your values will probably be further off if you use a different thermistor value.

It all depends on the beta values of the thermistors. If the betas are the same then the characteristics of the termistors would be the same irregardless of the name on it.
You really don't want to have to create custom tables in the firmware so I predict that E3D would use thermistors that are compatible as far as Beta values so Cope would be
right and no changes would be required.

[Nylocke]

I was more basing it on they are made by different companies with slightly different manufacturing techniques, so I was predicting that they would have slightly different resistances, within probably a +-5% range, simply because of differences in manufacturing. If it were a "prefect" world, they would be perfectly the same but its not so thats my reasoning.

[int2str]

Well, I did it... E3D is on the printer.
First test print starting soon - wish me luck!

[Eaglezsoar]

Well, I did it... E3D is on the printer.
First test print starting soon - wish me luck!

Let us know the results, you are probably the first on this Forum to use an E3D on the Orion.
How much Z height did you lose, maybe a picture of how you mounted it.

[int2str]

The first print was successful and looks great!
As for the installation, I gained 3-4mm Z height.

For my installation, I did a few things differently from what I've seen out there...

Hard wired the hot-end without connectors or wire cutting

I had originally planned to use some nice connectors to connect the thermistor, heater & fan to the hot-end, but ended up deciding against it. Any connector I would put on those wires would add bulk & look bad. Plus I'm not sure I have much use for the convenience of being able to take the hot-end off more easily. Instead, I noticed that the heater cartridge and "PEEK fan" wires supplied with the E3D are really long. So instead of cutting the wires and splicing in connectors, I pulled the heater and fan wires through the protective sleeve and connected them directly to the RAMBO board without cutting any wire.

The thermistors were crimped using the supplied ferrule and heat-shrink wrapped. I really don't like the look of RTV or Kapton tape on the hot-end, so I tried to keep tape too a minimum. I use aluminum foil to pack the thermistor into the hole and am not using ANY tape to secure it. The small piece of tape you'll see in the picture is only to hold the two wires together.

Reversed top & bottom mounting plates

I used 626Pilot's E3D groovemount kit to install the hot-end. However, if I used it in the "correct" orientation, the fan shroud would pretty much hit the effector platform ring. So I needed to get the hot-end higher somehow. Since I only had one set of spacers I decided to simply "flip" the mounting plate order. Put the "top" mount plate on first and then the "bottom" plate. This effectively raises the hot-end 3+mm in the mount.

And that's about it. I think it's a very clean install (still have to find black spacers somewhere) and was very easy to do. No soldering, no fancy connecots, no additinal hardware or fabriation.

Picture time...
You can click on the pictures for MUCH larger versions showing more detail.

[img]http://ironcreek.net/photos/_s/1024/Hobby/3D%20Printer/IMG_6100.JPG[/img]

[img]http://ironcreek.net/photos/_s/1024/Hobby/3D%20Printer/IMG_6102.JPG[/img]

[img]http://ironcreek.net/photos/_s/1024/Hobby/3D%20Printer/IMG_6101.JPG[/img]

[Eaglezsoar]

A VERY good job! Looks great and you actually gained some Z height.
Do you happen to know the length of those spacers? They look to be
1.5" but looks can be deceiving. Again, a very good job.

[int2str]

Do you happen to know the length of those spacers? They look to be
1.5" but looks can be deceiving. Again, a very good job.

I am pretty sure they are 1.5". But I'll confirm when I'm home.
I'll get some nice metal spacers as soon as I can confirm the height.

[int2str]

Just to confirm:
- Spacers are 1.5" (38.1mm)
- Screws are 2.5" (63.5mm)

[Eaglezsoar]

Just to confirm:
- Spacers are 1.5" (38.1mm)
- Screws are 2.5" (63.5mm)

Thanks for verifying those. I plan on copying what you have done
because it is the best I have seen thus far.

[cyrus104]

I posted this question in the mods and upgrade board but I wanted to try and get everyone here's thoughts.

Fan issue:
I have tried the Guanu Blower Fan Holder Shroud and that worked great with the stock unit but that is not working for the E3D since the carriage is much closer to the bed. I have sanded down the Guanu one but the issue is that it cools the bed by a bunch.

Slic3r settings:
I am using the same slic3r settings as the stock hotend but I have changed the extrusion multipliers to 0 (auto). I feel that the retraction is much different but I'm trying to figure out the best settings for this new hot end.

Thanks