Rostock MAX v2 Print not smooth

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mraybon
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Rostock MAX v2 Print not smooth

Post by mraybon »

Hi,
I am looking a little advice be for I start taking my printer apart. Had the max v2 for 5 years and allays print fine . but lately I have started getting these lines and cant figure it out, dose it on all prints and with difference slicer. Hopeing someone can point me in a direction or a link. tried searching but don't know what to call it.
thanks so much to everyone.
see pic
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Hq47aq ... sp=sharing
geneb
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Re: Rostock MAX v2 Print not smooth

Post by geneb »

You might want to check to make sure there's no debris on the belts or in the belt path.

g.
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mraybon
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Re: Rostock MAX v2 Print not smooth

Post by mraybon »

Thanks g.

I checked the belts and belt path. Adjusted the belts and still get the same print.
Is there any thing else that might be causing this?
Thanks for your help I am going crazy trying to fix this.

Image
geneb
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Re: Rostock MAX v2 Print not smooth

Post by geneb »

Are you using the original arms on your v2? If so, can you post a pic of the arm end?

tnx.

g.
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mraybon
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Re: Rostock MAX v2 Print not smooth

Post by mraybon »

These are the pictures.
Thanks for your help.

Image

Image

Image

Image
Mac The Knife
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Re: Rostock MAX v2 Print not smooth

Post by Mac The Knife »

Motor pulley setscrews starting to come loose maybe?
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Re: Rostock MAX v2 Print not smooth

Post by geneb »

I would check to make sure that the carriages are still tight on the rails. I've had two v2s that have had broken screw pockets, primarily due to my inadvertent over-tightening of the screws. :)

g.
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Re: Rostock MAX v2 Print not smooth

Post by mraybon »

OK I checked the carriage, its good belt are tight. used MatterControl and Cura 4.0, Printed in PLA and ABS (the light blue one). Any more suggestion or am I just stuck with this as the best it going to get?
Thanks for all the help so far.

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Re: Rostock MAX v2 Print not smooth

Post by geneb »

You might want to send an email to support and send them a link to the thread.

g.
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OC33
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Re: Rostock MAX v2 Print not smooth

Post by OC33 »

have you checked whether something might be dragging? i see you have new carriages but maybe the pulleys at top and bottom could be dragging some? it could even be that one of your stepper motors may be having an issue? another thing is whether your set screws on on your "stepper motor belt wheel" (cant recall the proper name for it :lol: ) could be loose and shimmying as it moves? Wish you luck!
TreyD
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Re: Rostock MAX v2 Print not smooth

Post by TreyD »

Hi,
I just saw your posting and was wondering if you were able to resolve the problem. I recently had the same rough texture start appearing on my prints after having great surface quality for a long time running at 80-90mm/s print speeds. I tightened everything up, changed to new Gates belts and checked all belt paths, etc. Nothing has really improved the issue. My next step is to replace the idler bearings with Gates GT2 idlers, but I'd rather stop blindly throwing money at it if it's a problem that has already been solved. Any tips would be greatly appreciated.

thanks, Trey
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Re: Rostock MAX v2 Print not smooth

Post by Mac The Knife »

How original is your V2? Are you still using the same aluminum U joints? What about the carriages?
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Re: Rostock MAX v2 Print not smooth

Post by TreyD »

Mac The Knife wrote: Mon May 24, 2021 7:59 am How original is your V2? Are you still using the same aluminum U joints? What about the carriages?
There's not much original left on it these days. Here's the list of changed bits (oldest to newest):
E3D v6 + Volcano
Duet 2 WiFi controller + PanelDue 7i
Meanwell 12v 360W power supply
SeeMeCNC Molded Cheapskates
BondTech BMG+Pancake (now in flying extruder setup using a counter weight)
Duet3D Smart Effector
Huntley's Magballs and CF Arms
Gates Belts

I didn't start seeing the defects until some months after I installed the magball arms. I've checked many times and there is zero play anywhere in the carraiage-arm-effector assembly. For many months (well over a year perhaps) I've been running with a pretty high belt tension to overcome ringing which has worked well.
The melamine frame pieces have developed some play over time from printing at high speeds (80-120mm/s) and so I designed and printed braces for the base and top of the towers. The whole frame is very satisfyingly rigid now :D

Here's a couple of pics of the braces:

Image

Image


I've been researching these defects over on the Duet3d forums and I suspect I have at least one of the following issues
1) With the increased rigidity of my components + high belt tension, vibration from the belt teeth on the bearings is being transferred to the print.
2) The increased belt tension has caused excessive wear to the motor bearings.
I have Gates idler and drive pulleys arriving this week and might have time to install them over the weekend. I have to design and print new mounts for them because they're different diameters than the stock 608zz bearings and they don't line up properly using the stock bolt holes, bushing washers, etc.
If the idlers don't fix the issue then I'll try to test each motor individually and if needed I'll replace any with bad bearings. I do have 1 spare motor left from the extruder upgrade.
I'll keep updating this thread as the journey progresses. If you have any advice on other things to check, please reply.

thanks,
- Trey
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Re: Rostock MAX v2 Print not smooth

Post by geneb »

I'd be curious to see what the print walls look like.

Weird idea, but have you checked your extruder drive gear and nozzle for wear?

g.
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Outsider
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Re: Rostock MAX v2 Print not smooth

Post by Outsider »

I like the axis support braces. Can you post the file?
TreyD
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Re: Rostock MAX v2 Print not smooth

Post by TreyD »

I'd be curious to see what the print walls look like.

Weird idea, but have you checked your extruder drive gear and nozzle for wear?
The shiny filaments look the worst and the pics posted by OP are representative. The faster I print the smoother it gets - I suppose the artifacts just get smeared out at higher speeds. I have checked the extruder and changed nozzles multiple times. Looks like it will be next weekend before I'm able to do the idler change. Thanks for the suggestions though.
I like the axis support braces. Can you post the file?
Sure can.
Of course holes have to be drilled in the melamine and the drop-in t-slot nuts can be quite frustrating, especially in the top. I used the largest hex wrench that would fit in the track to lift the t-slot nut into place for the top brackets. If you like to have a beer while you work, wait till you get the top bracket t-nuts in place. You'll need all your dexterity and by the time you finish you'll really need some suds. :lol:
The top bracket has a void for the uppermost 1/4"-20 machine screw so don't remove that one. The lower one will need to be replaced with one 1/4" longer. I used M3 for everything else cuz that's what I already have. If you want a stouter screw you'll have to drill out the screw holes in the braces accordingly. Also, I used fender washers where they would fit. Because the upper brackets require removing existing hardware I only did one bracket at a time to reduce the chance of messing up the frame geometry.
In the pics I posted you can see wires poking out the corner of the lower braces. I had wires for LEDs running up through the extrusion track so I added a hole in the braces for that. Use it if you like or just ignore it.
There is just one file for top and one for bottom. Just print 3 as is and three more mirrored. I didn't slice the braces as they drop onto the slicer build surface, I laid them on the triangular side (the side facing toward the center of the bed in the pictures) for best strength.
Print Settings:
CF-PLA with a .6 nozzle. .35 layer height, 6 top/bottom layers and perimeters and 30% infill.
These things are basically solid and very stiff!
Upper Brace.stl
(2.41 MiB) Downloaded 9 times
Lower Brace.stl
(1.91 MiB) Downloaded 9 times
Hope you like them! If you print them in a color other than black, post pics! I thought about using the Dark Cherry CF from Atomic, but only after I had printed a full set. I still might ...
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PartDaddy
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Re: Rostock MAX v2 Print not smooth

Post by PartDaddy »

Speeds in the EEPROM can be adjusted down. Slow the "jerk" or "instant speed change" down considerably. The accelerations might be cut by 50% to start.

Then printing a little slower, say 60-70 will help with "ringning" issues you show in the photo.
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