Rostock MAX V3

[Flavored Coffee]

Hello,

I found a real good belt tensioner, that you can print out. When I add that, with a V6 E3D Print Head, there's two improvements moving toward a better design. I liked the new fastener for the type of print head and will be getting one soon. I wonder if I can make it all fit the way the old one did. I might need different spacers and different screws. At this point, I want to replace the carriage with the new head because, wear and tear from mounting and dismounting already once. I've found that the aluminum spacers and the bolts that I can get, don't get long enough to keep that head up high enough. I know you could mount spacers on top of spacers, and use six screws, and raise that up another stage as it were via 2 melamine platforms. But, the V6 head, isn't easy to put over the carriage.

A banana pi is practically a whole motherboard. It would be kinda funny, if your 3D printer could double as a home computer, and surf the internet, even stream movies. Ha ha ha . But, then you could just surf the internet, download an stl file and hit print. The first Cloud Enabled 3D Printer.

I'm thinking that the Version 3, should be a more universal 3D printer, and built to host a list of print heads and cover a range of materials. It may not seem like it but, using lasers and nanopowders, isn't really that much different. I could see how an optical fiber could carry all of the light energy you needed to weld a spot. A chamber would be separate and so it would include the option of a environmentally controlled chamber. If the motors, and the wires leading to them are the bridge to the chamber, it could be literally air tight, and that is ideal for a laser printer. But, you'd just be using what they call an optical [url=http://www.edmundoptics.com/optics/fiber-optics/fiber-optic-tapers-faceplates/1599/]Taper.[/url] You'd mount as many high watt LEDs behind the wide end as you could fit. After the reduction, you follow that with a lens, to stuff it into an optical fiber bundle to carry it to it's target.

[hubrigant]

Yeah, it's fun to get a tool like this that invites you, as the owner, to think about how to make it better. With mine, (beyond getting it to actually work, that is ), I'm thinking about a way to modify the effector plate to allow quick-attach tooling to go from squirting plastic/chocolate/ceramic clay to the laser-etching head to the dial indicator to the simple pen mount for drawing, etc.

Part of me wants to go back and replace the melamine plates with something more precise and rigid. The other part of me never wants to reassemble the towers, given how many times I put them together wrong the first time!

[Mac The Knife]

Danger!!

[Flavored Coffee]

That's just it, SeeMeCNC is literally a CNC shop, and it is possible for them to offer other materials. I'm fairly certain cutting aluminum is the next series of laser machines, and some people, like myself, yea, would like you pay for better parts. Aircraft Aluminum is honestly great stuff to make this out of. Only changing the thickness of certain slots and making them narrower for the thickness of aluminum instead of the thickness of melamine. It could fit together exactly the same way because, aluminum is a really a high friction metal, and most metals don't like to slide on it or across it. Even the nuts and bolts could be the same because, aluminum is fairly soft and you can mush it around as it were with a little time say, rocking a nut into position. But, 1/8th inch thick aircraft aluminum and yea, this thing would fit together rock solid, live long and prosper. Melamine spacers for fitting the LCD Readout, and acrylic covers in place. I would call it a retro fit kit, and case upgrade.

Yeah, it's fun to get a tool like this that invites you, as the owner, to think about how to make it better. With mine, (beyond getting it to actually work, that is ), I'm thinking about a way to modify the effector plate to allow quick-attach tooling to go from squirting plastic/chocolate/ceramic clay to the laser-etching head to the dial indicator to the simple pen mount for drawing, etc.

Part of me wants to go back and replace the melamine plates with something more precise and rigid. The other part of me never wants to reassemble the towers, given how many times I put them together wrong the first time!

[Captain Starfish]

[img]http://vignette2.wikia.nocookie.net/r2d ... 1208221540[/img]

[gestalt73]

Hello, I found a real good belt tensioner, that you can print out. When I add that, with a V6 E3D Print Head, there's two improvements moving toward a better design. I liked the new fastener for the type of print head and will be getting one soon.

Hey Flavored Coffee, it sounds like a neat mod. Maybe you can share a pic of the new tensioners assembled in your Rostock, and a link to where you found them? There may be others out there that want to try it out.

At this point, I want to replace the carriage with the new head because, wear and tear from mounting and dismounting already once.

I'm thinking about a way to modify the effector plate to allow quick-attach tooling to go from squirting plastic/chocolate/ceramic clay to the laser-etching head to the dial indicator to the simple pen mount for drawing, etc.

It sounds like both of you may want to look into Xnaron's magnetic ball arm modifications. Using a derivative of his system and adding connectors for the wiring allows me to swap out hot ends in minutes.
http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=54&t=1704

[Flavored Coffee]

I've got no pictures. But, I have looked over both the belt tensioner and how it works, and I think it would be easier for SeeMeCNC to drill an extra hole in the top's support brackets for a total of four L brackets each with only two screw holes. Then the axle of the belt would go through two of the L brackets, and be bolted together. That would allow for a thumb screw to pull the four tabs together for each belt via a nut and thumb screw. It would just pull the belt's axle up as you tightened the thumbscrew. You'd work on either side to make the tension equal on either side of the belt and be sure it was travelling centered over the bearings. There's a melamine tab that's about an inch long and three quarters of an inch wide, right below that is where the new hole should be drilled for the nut and bolt to hold the metal tab for the four L brackets.

L Bracket Type **Not correct size.