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installed new cheapskates and hotend with the premade whip and now i can upload the new firmware and if i don't plug in the hotend the system will fully load if i plug in the hotend it gives me nothing but stays at the first splash screen. at first when the hotend was unpluged i would get my thermresistors reading out but now it just gives me def after about 5 seconds. no idea where to go from here

Sounds like you may have got a wire incorrectly installed... Is it wired as the instructions detailed it?

As far as I can tell I did wire it correctly but the current instructions do leave a lot to be desired

Please clarify,when you say "plug in the hotend" specifically what do you mean? Do you mean the connector at the HE280 or do you literally mean you unplugged just the hotend connector at the RAMBo side?

If the former, then you should disconnect ALL of the whip connectors at the RAMBo side, test that you can upload and then plug each connector in and test upload after each to isolate the circuit the is either shorting or not connected correctly. If the later then get a magnifier and check the connector that you don't have a strand or two of wire shorting then check at hotend connections, heat cartridge, thermal fuse, etc looking for issues.

ok isolated boot issue to something in the i2c connection. problem is i don't have any loose wires and re-terminated the connection just to be certain. resistance across all soldered wires is .08 ohms the hotend main power wire is .04 ohms.

Scrutinize the pcb for bridges or other problems. If none, contact support with your findings.

Try flipping the Green and White wires on the Hot End Thermistor. The results may please you.


Gary

I have the same issue. Everthing is wired according to the documentation and when I turn the printer on the temperature indicators flip to DEF. I am in communication with support but have not determined the issue quite yet.

I had a similar issue but it was due to the ambient temperature the printer was in being below 18 degrees C.

flipping the hot end thermresistor helped the boot cycle but still giving the def issue

When the screen first changes from the startup screen to the status screen, for just a few seconds temperature should be reported for both thermistors before changing to def. One is likely correct and most likely the bed. The other will likely report -50C which indicates a no signal is being received since -50 is the min default temp of the firmware.

Is the hot end initially reporting a much lower than realistic temperature before showing the def failure?

gary

For mine, the temp on the thermistor reads somewhere between 5C & 8C before switching to DEF.

nitewatchman wrote:When the screen first changes from the startup screen to the status screen, for just a few seconds temperature should be reported for both thermistors before changing to def. One is likely correct and most likely the bed. The other will likely report -50C which indicates a no signal is being received since -50 is the min default temp of the firmware.

Is the hot end initially reporting a much lower than realistic temperature before showing the def failure?

gary

By default anything below 18 will shut down due to potential print quality issues. You will need to either heat the room or adjust your configuration.ini file to allow a lower temperature. Example below, I set mine to 5 rather than 18.


#elif PRINTER == 5 // Rostock MAX v3 w/HE280
#define MIN_EXTRUDER_TEMP 150 // this is the minimum temperature that will allow the extruder to drive filament, lower and it will ignore extruder commands
#define MAXTEMP 290 // this is the max allowable temp the hotend can be set at, any higher will trigger safety's
#define MIN_DEFECT_TEMPERATURE 5 // this is the min temp that will allow the hotend to start heating. Below this it will show as defective to help identify bad thermistors
#define MAX_DEFECT_TEMPERATURE 300 // this is the max temp that wthe printer will throw errors about defective thermistors
#endif

I will give the min temp change a try. Although my other printer in the same room reads about 15C-20C when the hot end is not heated.

morgandc wrote:By default anything below 18 will shut down due to potential print quality issues. You will need to either heat the room or adjust your configuration.ini file to allow a lower temperature. Example below, I set mine to 5 rather than 18.


#elif PRINTER == 5 // Rostock MAX v3 w/HE280
#define MIN_EXTRUDER_TEMP 150 // this is the minimum temperature that will allow the extruder to drive filament, lower and it will ignore extruder commands
#define MAXTEMP 290 // this is the max allowable temp the hotend can be set at, any higher will trigger safety's
#define MIN_DEFECT_TEMPERATURE 5 // this is the min temp that will allow the hotend to start heating. Below this it will show as defective to help identify bad thermistors
#define MAX_DEFECT_TEMPERATURE 300 // this is the max temp that wthe printer will throw errors about defective thermistors
#endif

fixing the temp low end fixed that half... now when i run the auto level script it does x fine goes to z and does first tap hard and second slams into the bed and keeps going. never stops. sometimes power cycling it and keeping the script running works but that is about 1 in 10 tries. when it goes to y after if it works. however bed is still not leveled by about 3mm on the x-y direction and same on the z direction.

You don't have the hot end active during the probing do you?

g.

No the hot end is off

I initially found that the Bowden tube was exiting the braid too close to the HE and causing the plug to see intermittent contact by pulling it loose. Pierced the braid higher up and problem went away.

moving the bowden tube has solved the problem of the auto calibrate. thanks alot. takes bout 6 inches of tube free from the binder.

edit. nope that didn't work. completely removed the bowden as still having an issue.....

I have the same problem and as the connector doesnt have a locking pin, or any other way of properly locking to the extruder this will fail for all users of the he280 at some point.

Lets beg for a solution to cable tie the connector to the extruder somehow!

If you're using the premade wiring harness I recommend removing the wires from the clamping terminal on the top of the plug (The heater shouldn't be a problem, & it could be a pain to get them back in with any added mass) & either ferruling or tining the ends before reconnecting them to the plug.


I had a really bad intermittent problem with the thermistor shutting off & it turned out to be a really poor job on the plug wiring. (Most of the wires were barely making contact.)

ddrumss2112 wrote:If you're using the premade wiring harness I recommend removing the wires from the clamping terminal on the top of the plug (The heater shouldn't be a problem, & it could be a pain to get them back in with any added mass) & either ferruling or tining the ends before reconnecting them to the plug.


I had a really bad intermittent problem with the thermistor shutting off & it turned out to be a really poor job on the plug wiring. (Most of the wires were barely making contact.)

I personally wouldn't recommend the tining, although with a spring cage connector it's less important than a screw terminal where there's no method to take up any slack if the solder migrates. If necessary to find ferrules locally and avoid ordering them shipped, try the hardware/automotive store for butt-splice connectors, and use either uninsulated ones or remove the insulation.

But it does seem sub-optimal to have no locking mechanism on the wire whip. Perhaps print a new top plate for the assembly that includes little clips? I may take a look at designing one for the heck of it, but if anyone else wants to, that's better than relying on me to do it.