Assembly manual discussion thread!

[guanu]

sigh all you want, but when theres a problem that needs to be fixed, it needs to be done right away, not going to let people wait just for that... its not like a huge thing that needs to be in depth, its just an *optional* led for the hotend... so no, they can still follow the manual and be fine... if they WANT the led for the hotend, its a simple + and - to the hot end leads at the rambo...

Guanu

[dtgriscom]

sigh all you want, but when theres a problem that needs to be fixed, it needs to be done right away, not going to let people wait just for that... its not like a huge thing that needs to be in depth, its just an *optional* led for the hotend... so no, they can still follow the manual and be fine... if they WANT the led for the hotend, its a simple + and - to the hot end leads at the rambo...

Guanu

You can say it's simple, but GeneB's right: when a tyro is reading a manual, and it doesn't match what they're staring at on their bench, trouble ensues. The problem is that the manual cannot give the engineering reason behind everything it dictates, so when Boogle G found that it didn't match the actual hardware he really didn't have the context to be able to figure out what to do. He called for help, which is good; someone else might have winged it, and maybe winged it wrong.

SeeMeCNC has it easy: building products without having to document them is a luxury few engineers enjoy. You should at least warn the person doing the documentation that something new is coming down the pike. It takes a couple of minutes, and makes everyone's jobs/lives easier.

Dan

[geolupulus]

SeeMeCNC has it easy: building products without having to document them is a luxury few engineers enjoy...

You got that right! SeeMeCNC knew the Rev5 Onyx bed was coming weeks ago, they told us on the phone. Gene, you have much more patience than I!

[notarat]

sigh all you want, but when theres a problem that needs to be fixed, it needs to be done right away, not going to let people wait just for that... its not like a huge thing that needs to be in depth, its just an *optional* led for the hotend... so no, they can still follow the manual and be fine... if they WANT the led for the hotend, its a simple + and - to the hot end leads at the rambo...

Guanu

It would have taken less time to tell geneb the change was coming than it took to make that post...

[guanu]

I dont do the designing, things like that arrive, they tell me to test them and they start shipping them.. I even know rev 6 heated beds are being worked on, but I know nothing of what else is changing... I didnt know about the hot end led till they arrived, only change I knew about is changing the traces to lower the resistance for it to heat faster.. I didnt mean for my post to be as aggressive as it came out, thats not my intention... I wanted merely to say the board itself needed to be fixed, so we want customers to get the fix as soon as possible so people arent unable to print abs for extended periods..

Guanu

[boogie g]

second resistor goes where its labeled "RES" just like for the heated bed LED.... the resistor goes from the RES pad to the + pad.. and then the + and - for hot end led go to the hotend wiring on the rambo for the hotend... (with the rambo green screw terminals at the top, the first 2 spots are for the hotend, first - then +... just add the wires from the hot end led of the bed to the wires from the hotend to the rambo... this will have that LED light up when the hotend gets power)

Guanu

Thanks,
Also does the bed need to be counter sunk for the screws to be in stalled?

[boogie g]

Also does the bed need to be counter sunk for the screws to be in stalled?

[Mac The Knife]

Also does the bed need to be counter sunk for the screws to be in stalled?

yes, They must have been in a rush to get the new version out.

[leebrimelow]

I'm close to finishing my build and had the same issue with the heatbed. I think it's great that they like to get new stuff out quickly but doing so without proper documentation does more harm than good. I spent hours trying to figure out what I had done wrong but it turns out that they had simply changed the design.

I got a rev5 and was clueless what do about the additional LED and, most importantly, the fact that it can't be mounted correctly lined up on the base. I asked support and the answer was to either mount it at an angle (what I chose to do) or countersink some of the other holes. How the hell do you countersink holes on glass? They should not assume that everyone building this is a machinist. Anyway I'm over it now but I just hope the thing works when I finish it up tomorrow

[boogie g]

The Rev5 Onyx bed has 2 LEDs, the manual shows one going to the Rambo.

Where does the other one plugin on the Rambo board?

[RegB]

The rev 5 install is documented in the June 24 version of the manual.

Easy for ME to say, I still don't have my kit, but I have read the FINE manual
{Please excuse the RTFM joke}.

It is VERY FINE, Gene has done and continues to do one heckuva job.

[RegB]

I got my kit about 3 hours ago and have spent MOST of that time picking tape off, peeling the backing paper off and poking tooth picks through the small holes.
No SIGNIFICANT problems with the laser cutting, other than where it didn't quite burn through on a couple of cheap skate parts that chipped when they were broken free.

I checked to see if I had a rev 3 or rev 5 Onyx - SURPRISE !!! it is marked Rev 6.
Just peeking through the plastic it looks like the rev 5, so maybe the change is an "ongoing improvement" with no wiring or other form/fit/function changes.

Don't know when I will get to that stage since I plan on sealing all the melamine edges and that will take some drying time.

[kiiwii]

About 8 hours into my build now. Thanks Geneb for the awesome documentation! Just a few comments:

- It wasn't clear how far I needed to insert the T-nuts for the Onyx mounting. I didn't put them in far enough initially for the (short) #4-40 Onyx screws to reach, and it was a pain to press them in after mounting the top plate of the base.
- I received a Rev 5 Onyx, and one arm of the snowflake has two cutouts on it. The cutouts are intended for the LED leads to stick out of the bottom of the Onyx. This is not pictured in the manual, and it took me some tries to figure out the correct orientation. If mounted incorrectly, the screw will not reach, because the LED leads on the back of the board don't allow it to sit flat.
- Handy trick for threading wires down the aluminum extrusions: Straighten out the scrap bare wire from the 4-conductor cable, and thread it through the aluminum first. Twist the end of the bare wire around the bundle of wires that you want, and pull the bundle through. Much easier than pushing the bundle down--it gets stuck.

[nitewatchman]

- Handy trick for threading wires down the aluminum extrusions: Straighten out the scrap bare wire from the 4-conductor cable, and thread it through the aluminum first. Twist the end of the bare wire around the bundle of wires that you want, and pull the bundle through. Much easier than pushing the bundle down--it gets stuck.

I used a .20 caliber rifle cleaning rod.

nitewatchman

[Hans]

Ok, this is going to be a potential pain in the ass....

Looks like with the Rev5+ heat plates, and the new 'notched' snowflakes, the hole pattern is also rotated 60 degrees for the heat plate mounting points. So the photos of the T-nut locations no longer match up. Not a huge deal at this point, was easy enough to get that sorted out. (Though I am missing the bag of T-nuts for the heat plate actually... I used the ones intended for the Rambo mount).

The bigger problem is that the front T-nut between the X and Y axis risers is is located almost directly on top of one of the vertical supports, forcing a gap between that and the top plate. I didn't notice until I already put in the aluminum risers and the cheapskates. So now I have to decide if I leave that gap there, or pull off the top plate and remove the T-nut, do I countersink the top plate for the T-nut, or do I put a clearance notch into the vertical support.

Also, I need to test it before confirming, but it looks like the Rambo has a spot to add a 6 pin header for additional LED outputs. Right below the green junction block that you plug in the hot end, etc... there's a small row of holes marked H0, F1, H1. It looks like you can add a .100 male header to this spot and that will give you additional connections for LED output. But unless you really know how to solder, and have a proper desoldering rig to clear out the holes, I would recommend sticking with what Gene has in the manual to double up wires in the screw mounts. It's a very fine line between adding a useful connector and shorting out circuits.

-Hans

[nitewatchman]

I would notch the vertical bulkhead to provide clearance for the head of the Tee-Nut. Counterboring for the Tee-Nut is a little more difficult and may require shortening the Tee-Nut. My V2 would not have this problem even if the holes were rotated so something else must have changed in addition, if I am correctly understanding the problem.

I think doing nothing is not an option. If the head of the Tee-Nut creates a bump in the top plate, leveling and calibration later may be a bit of a problem.

nitewatchman

[Hans]

Yeah, I came to the same conclusion myself too. It wasn't too bad to pop it apart and carve out a slot with my carving set. I had also forgotten a couple tweaks I wanted to make as well.

It's not the whole T-nut that interferes, only about 1/4 of it overlaps with the vertical support, but that's all it takes.

-Hans

[geneb]

The machine I built in the manual only has six mounting holes for the Onyx. If yours has 12, use the same holes I used for the original build.

g.

[Hans]

Still only 6 holes in the top plate for the onyx mounting, they just rotated the whole assembly and added in a pair of notches in the mounting plate to clear the LED's under the onyx.
And that causes the front T-nut to interfere with the vertical support.

[img]http://www.siegecraft.us/rostock/IMGP4446.JPG[/img]
[img]http://www.siegecraft.us/rostock/IMGP4450.JPG[/img]

[geneb]

Yeah, that looks nothing like the parts I have. I don't know why they changed it - the insets in the original start plate gave plenty of room to clear the LEDs.

*headdesk*

g.

[geneb]

Yeah, that looks nothing like the parts I have. I don't know why they changed it - the insets in the original start plate gave plenty of room to clear the LEDs.

*headdesk*

g.

[Mac The Knife]

Wow!!! you echoed!

[geneb]

It's the hollow space in my head. The original specification read "Bat", but someone screwed up at the factory and I still have half a sonar system.

g.

[MKGrinch]

Hello guys!!! I have the same problem as hans!!! The nut interferes with the vertical support on the front face! Is there a fix for this???

[nitewatchman]

The best approach to maintain alignments would be to notch the bulkhead to provide clearance for the Tee-Nut.