Working with T-Glase Prints?

[Harblar]

So, I'm looking to get a roll or two of T-Glase (clear and red translucent), but had a couple questions about working with it before I did.

I've recently been printing and building Lightsabers and components out of ABS and then sanding, priming, sanding, priming, painting, etc... to get a nice finished result. What I'd like to do with the T-glase is print out customized/styled blades for these sabers.

First off, to my understanding, it is much more durable (and much more flexible) than abs when printed. How much so? For instance, would a piece printed to the same physical dimensions as a polycarb tube (say a 10" long x 3/4" outer diameter tube with a 1/8" wall) be just as strong or stronger than the polycarb tube? (ie, would it be capable of standing up to the same abuse the regular saber blade would sustain in mock combat?) Worst case scenario it isn't that strong, but would still look great as a display piece that could be twirled around (no impacts) without breaking apart.

I've discovered that print lines can be removed (and a high degree of clarity restored) by brushing on a coat or two of a special epoxy polymer designed for 3d prints (Smooth-On XTC-3D). I can only imagine this adds to the overall strength. Is this the only means of finishing a T-glase print with out marring up the surface? Say I just wanted to prime and paint the print when I was done. How well does it respond to typical abs smoothing methods? (Sanding, Acetone smoothing, Dremeling, Etc...)

Finally, Is there any way to seamlessly glue two T-glase parts together? If I were to print Saber Blades I would have to do so in three interlocking pieces (or make a Rostock Max with a 36" build height! lol). That would require me to then fuse the pieces together some how. Due to the particular properties I'm using it for, the bond between the parts would have to be as good, or better than, as if it were done during initial printing as a single part and, after finishing/clarifying, leave little to no evidence of the physical join (since any visible joints would would likely be very noticeable once illuminated with a high power LED). To that end, would the XTC-3D (used for smoothing/clarity) also act as a bonding agent for the part?

Ultimately, this is just going to be one big trial and error process for me. I'm not even sure how evenly or brightly the LED would Illuminate a 3D printed blade. Left unfinished it may diffuse the light too quickly and/or create hot spots. Clarified it might not trap enough light too light it up (though this is easily correctable by using rolled up gift wrap or wax paper as a diffuser).

So anyway... Maybe an unconventional use for T-glase, but I think it has potential for creating a truly outstanding looking show piece, if nothing else.

[Nylocke]

The ideal print in T-Glase would probably be single walled (especially for clarity) and done in the largest nozzle you have with the largest layer height possible. A volcano would probably be the most suitable. I've only ever tried T-glade with a .4mm nozzle and it hasn't really come out great. Not terribly strong either.

I could try a single walled print with 1.1mm extrusion widths and something like .7-.8mm layers tonight (nice 1mm Volcano nozzle at work) and post pictures if you'd like to see before wasting time/money

Either way, printing it isn't ideal. Even with really fat extrusion widths (large surface area contact between layers) the layers are still the weak point.

[TFMike]

You should get the fattest nozzle you can find and if you want to use something else to improve the surface you could try this: http://www.amazon.com/Oleum-268652-Shie ... B00F87S1HY" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I am also about to print a giant vase like object using a custom 2mm nozzle, I will let you know how that goes.

[Harblar]

That's right in line with everything I've read of t-glase. Big nozzle (.5mm bring the minimum recommended size), 240-250 temp, slow it down, and thicker layers.

So would you say it is as prone to layer separation as abs (when under stress and/or shock)?

Clarity is fine and all, but not an absolute need. Even diffusion of the led light being the main need. Just worried the layer lines might work against that.

So back to the Smooth-On XTC-3D epoxy... I learned of this straight from Taulman's website and why it drastically improved the clarity of prints. Since it is an epoxy that is basically fusing with the print surface to form an optically clear path for light to pass through, wouldn't that also greatly strengthen the bond between layers? And if that is the case wouldn't it also work as an ideal method for bonding two separate pieces into one?

When all is said and done, I guess I'm more curious about the after print processing of the part and not so much about how to print it. And to that end, what kind of weight does T-Glase have? Heavier/Lighter than Abs or polyc?

[Nylocke]

All plastics when 3D printed are susceptible to layer separation, thats the weakest link in how they are made.

I'd think the layer lines would help diffusion a fair bit. The light is more likely to refract/reflect all over in the layers.

I can't comment on the density, it should be on the spec sheet though. It seems lighter than ABS.

[TFMike]

T glase is light, and you should print it in slic3r using the 1 perimeter no infill settings with the fattest nozzle you have. I'm not sure that xtc from smooth on is the ideal way to join pieces together due to its price, you would be better off getting some clear 2 part epoxy glue for 5 dollars at the hardware store or walmart for something like that. I just had a large print with my 2mm nozzle that had one layer separate but all in all it was a nice experiment:

2.5 mm/sec print speed at 225 using 3.0 mm diameter filament on a lulzbot taz 3