Why is Ninjaflex not recommended for boden like the Rostock?

[shentheory]

I've heard and read that Semiflex is the way to go for Boden setups, which is fine by me, but I'm curious as to what the difference is that makes Ninjaflex generally not recommended. Thanks!!

[IMBoring25]

Bowden (watch the spelling) setups are not generally considered ideal for highly-flexible filaments because, even with PTFE, resistance and elasticity are associated with every unit length the extruder motor has to push a length of raw filament. This makes good results highly dependent on the configuration of your extruder drive and hot end and, even with those factors nicely covered, the slicer settings you can get away with using comparatively finicky.

[EL Cuajinais]

The flexible filament is too flexible and buckles when the extruder motor pushes it.

In non-bowden setups, the extruder pushes the filament very near to the point where it gets melted so it doesn't buckle.

[Jimustanguitar]

The semi-flex works well.

[Windshadow]

How does the Bondtech QR do with full ninjaflex and our long Bowden tubes? I have one on order due here next week and I thought I might get a sample length of the full flex and see how it goes once i have it set up. Also I see that they have a new filament due soon That I want to try... I did not think even the semi flex worked with the long tubes that we use until I saw this post so I am encouraged to try that as well.
http://www.ninjaflex3d.com/products/cheetah/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

CHEETAH™– Coming Soon!
THE INDUSTRIAL GRADE FLEXIBLE FILAMENT
Cheetah 3D printing filament is the most printable flexible filament on the market. Cheetah filament is made from a specially formulated thermoplastic elastomer (TPE) material. The focus in development of this material was on optimizing the user experience. The result is a filament that is printable across all types of desktop 3D printers at significantly higher speeds than other flexible materials on the market can support. Additionally, Cheetah filament possesses excellent impact resistance and unique tensile strength while remaining very flexible, making it ideal for functional use.
All Cheetah filaments are made in the USA and are available in 1.75mm (500 grams) and 3mm (750 grams).

KEY FEATURES:
Consistent diameter and material properties providing reliable, high quality prints
Printable on all types of fused deposition model (FDM) printers including Bowden extruders
Printable on standard ABS settings
Impact resistance 25% greater than ABS
Ultimate tensile strength comparable to low-grade nylons
Excellent abrasion resistance
Excellent chemical resistance
Excellent build platform adhesion and bonding between layers
Excellent post-processing capabilities
REACH and RoHS 2002/95/EC Directive compliant
Shore Hardness = 98APRINTING GUIDELINES:
Print Temperature Target: 245 (Range 240-250)
Print Bed Temperature: Ambient to 40C.
Print Bed Preparation: No special preparation is required.
Print Speed:
Top and bottom layers: 30-40mm/s
Infill speeds: 50mm/s – 75mm/s
Cooling Fans: ON if available

[U.S. Water Rockets]

Someone needs to build a refrigerated Bowden tube and filament holder. A true "cold end", to cool the flexible filament to the point it is as stiff as ABS or PLA. Then after it has been extruded and cools to room temperature, it's back to being all flexible.

[JJPowelly]

What you can do is convert your extruder to a "flyin" struder... Basically put the extruder on bungees connected to the top effectors... This will shorten your PTFE tube substantially... (to about 5-6 inches)... Then get an extruder that has tight enough spaces around the gear and drive assembly so that the ninjaflex doesnt get caught or wrap around the gear - which is a common problem with ninja flex... I designed an extruder that prints ninjaflex well and also have a flyin' struder setup with three extruders going into a diamond hotend... Overall, I print ninjaflex pretty well on this printer... So basically, yes you can print ninjaflex on the rostock... You just have to make some upgrades/modifications. Below is a video of my setup to give you an idea of what I'm talking about... Trick laser sell a decent flyin struder... http://tricklaser.com/Fly-N-Strude-extr ... YNSTRD.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; ... You can also print one yourself... I'm going to upload my extruder design to thingiverse within the next day or two also.

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3Z_21b3xl20[/youtube]

[Wes@MachWax]

I love the magnetic mount! Great idea.

[Xenocrates]

Hey JJ, if you want to find another fellow who had the magnetic hotend, I suggest you look at Raymond Ma's blog. He was active on here for a while years back, but school got busier for him, and most of his stuff was on his blog in the first place. his hotend mount is in theory very repeatable (+-.01 inches), as it's based off a design used for physics experiments that is repeatable to +-.0005 inches, which uses two rods and a ball for locating.

[JJPowelly]

Oh wow, never came across it... Will look into it... Sounds interesting

[lightninjay]

Here is the link to Raymond Ma's blog, if anybody was looking for it!

http://blog.rymnd.com/rostock-upgrades/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;