Acer P1283

What projectors work, how to modify them and how to make them work
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johnoly99
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Acer P1283

Post by johnoly99 »

Popped the 'hood' on an Acer P1283 today. Removed the filter from the bulb, and took the color wheel out, didn't need to i guess but just because. Seems to work without the color wheel disc, I ended up just snapping off the glass plate with the color pallete on it and reinstalled it, as it needs to 'see' that it's there and functioning. Here's some pics of the mod

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/9swmwuq1t0mq ... ca3ywj5t3a" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
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Jimustanguitar
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Re: Acer P1283

Post by Jimustanguitar »

You should be able to get black and white without the color wheel... As long as the projector isn't smart enough to know that it's not there :) The bulb shines through the spinning wheel which turns its beam of light into a color strobing beam. That color strobing light hits the DLP chip with hundreds of thousands of moving micromirrors on it. The mirrors aim the right color at the right pixel when the video board says to, and reflects the light away from the lens into a trap or absorber when that pixel needs to be off... Without the color wheel you'd just be aiming white light every time instead of alternating RGB.

The micromirrors are why DLP projectors are a must when doing SLA. When the pixel is off, in theory it isn't passing any light. On an LCD projector, you can't achieve that black level and you'd be curing resin in places that you weren't intending to.
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Glacian22
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Re: Acer P1283

Post by Glacian22 »

By getting rid of the filter and color wheel you should be able to get some pretty fast cure times, what with your boosted UV output. Theoretically, you'll be shortening the lifespan of the micromirror array, as UV can degrade it, but I haven't noticed any dead pixels in my DLP printer with the same mods, so the risks may be overstated. :)
Jimustanguitar wrote: The micromirrors are why DLP projectors are a must when doing SLA. When the pixel is off, in theory it isn't passing any light. On an LCD projector, you can't achieve that black level and you'd be curing resin in places that you weren't intending to.
Actually, the "black" areas of the projected image are still clearly getting some light, but yeah the contrast makes it negligible. The real reason you generally can't use an LCD projector is LCDs really, really don't like transmitting UV. It's easier with a monochrome LCD, but it just won't work with an off the shelf LCD projector, which is why everyone uses DLP.
johnoly99
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Re: Acer P1283

Post by johnoly99 »

Yeah, it started out as to not remove the glass, just remove the assembly and tape it out of the way. However, it's much cleaner with the glass broken off and the housing replaced haha.
Polygonhell
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Re: Acer P1283

Post by Polygonhell »

Fwiw I just tested one of these projectors with some resin and like some other ACER projectors it will happily cure the resin without having to remove the UV filter on the bulb or the color wheel. Though removing the color wheel is probably a good idea anyway.
It also has the nice property that the focus stop for the lens is just a simple screw and removing it gives you enough additional travel to focus at 4 inches or less.
brent
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Re: Acer P1283

Post by brent »

Polygonhell wrote:Fwiw I just tested one of these projectors with some resin and like some other ACER projectors it will happily cure the resin without having to remove the UV filter on the bulb or the color wheel. Though removing the color wheel is probably a good idea anyway.
It also has the nice property that the focus stop for the lens is just a simple screw and removing it gives you enough additional travel to focus at 4 inches or less.
Glad I won't have to remove the color wheel to fully cure it.

Have you changed the boot logo yet to something cool? I know john has the seemecnc logo displayed at boot.
Instructions on changing boot logo via the manual:
[img]http://i.gyazo.com/3799d68236209b5fc2c1c037e8934d35.png[/img]
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