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Installed an astrobox with Raspberry Pi 3. It's happily printing away. I'm just pleased to get my laptop back.

Milamber wrote:Installed an astrobox with Raspberry Pi 3. It's happily printing away. I'm just pleased to get my laptop back.

That is downside of the Eris. It is going to tie up a computer to print until you give it it's own controller.

Mac The Knife wrote:

Milamber wrote:Installed an astrobox with Raspberry Pi 3. It's happily printing away. I'm just pleased to get my laptop back.

That is downside of the Eris. It is going to tie up a computer to print until you give it it's own controller.

The controller is there, you just need to add the user interface to it to make it stand-alone.

Interface/controller, aluminum/aluminium, potato/potato,,,,,,

Milamber wrote:Installed an astrobox with Raspberry Pi 3. It's happily printing away. I'm just pleased to get my laptop back.

This sounds like a good topic to document if you have the time.

gkrangan wrote: Anyone else have had the above issue with the EZ-Struder, and the other two problems I've noticed? Perhaps you've had more creative solutions than I could come up with.

I did notice the air gap you mentioned.. check the other 2 sides as well mine has slight gaps all around. I believe the newer ones have that issue addressed but I cant remember. But mine were like that out of the box.

As for the EZ-Struder only issue I had was that I stripped out the knob on mine already

Odd your printer is squeaking.. wonder if its environment related.. mines still silent and the plastic used for most of those parts *shouldn't* squeak

If you're trying to turn the extruder with the stepper motor energized, then yes, you'll destroy the knob.

g.

JATMN wrote:

gkrangan wrote: Anyone else have had the above issue with the EZ-Struder, and the other two problems I've noticed? Perhaps you've had more creative solutions than I could come up with.

I did notice the air gap you mentioned.. check the other 2 sides as well mine has slight gaps all around. I believe the newer ones have that issue addressed but I cant remember. But mine were like that out of the box.

As for the EZ-Struder only issue I had was that I stripped out the knob on mine already

Odd your printer is squeaking.. wonder if its environment related.. mines still silent and the plastic used for most of those parts *shouldn't* squeak

Actually, I wouldn't characterize it as squeaking. It's more like a jerk, or some vibration kinda noise or something like that. I apologize, I'm unable to describe it better. BTW, it does not happen all the time. Probably during the higher speed non-print travel moves. It also depends on the print, and which part of the print it is printing, etc.

I'm going to put my black PVC electrical tape all around, the black plastic seams on the hot-end. Seems to work pretty good.

geneb wrote:If you're trying to turn the extruder with the stepper motor energized, then yes, you'll destroy the knob.

g.

You are not the only one to do so, JATMIN.

Mac The Knife wrote:

geneb wrote:If you're trying to turn the extruder with the stepper motor energized, then yes, you'll destroy the knob.

g.

You are not the only one to do so, JATMIN.

Yea and its hard to tell when its not energized half the time.. only ever tried to turn it when it was in what I would have assumed to be an off state but it appears to be nearly always on after doing anything..

Also.. I have leveled 6 times today and not been able to start a print

JATMN wrote:

Mac The Knife wrote:

geneb wrote:If you're trying to turn the extruder with the stepper motor energized, then yes, you'll destroy the knob.

g.

You are not the only one to do so, JATMIN.

Yea and its hard to tell when its not energized half the time.. only ever tried to turn it when it was in what I would have assumed to be an off state but it appears to be nearly always on after doing anything..

Also.. I have leveled 6 times today and not been able to start a print

??? Autocalibrate was doing the Curly shuffle? The only time I would auto cal was if I removed the nozzle, or laid down new Kapton tape on the bed,,,, or to show off. The rest of the time, I'd remove a print, and start another without calibrating.

I have literally run calibration 40x now since I have had the printer.. and only one time I ever had a *good* level and that was lost when I updated the firmware..

My auto-calibration still doesn't work most of the time. I just have to keep running it and running it until it finally finishes. when I carry it around it probably shifts a little and z-height is a little off. I will literally run about 20 times some times z-probe failing until it gives up. Support never got back to me over email and the support chat wasn't responding. I'd be happy to fix my own auto-calibration if I could.

One a positive note: I took my Eris to demo at an anime convention, it was so nice to be able to carry this small 10lb printer with me, plop it on a table and start printing for people. There was a lot of people impressed because they never seen a delta printer (or even a 3D printer) before.

themitch22 wrote:My auto-calibration still doesn't work most of the time. I just have to keep running it and running it until it finally finishes. when I carry it around it probably shifts a little and z-height is a little off. I will literally run about 20 times some times z-probe failing until it gives up. Support never got back to me over email and the support chat wasn't responding. I'd be happy to fix my own auto-calibration if I could.

One a positive note: I took my Eris to demo at an anime convention, it was so nice to be able to carry this small 10lb printer with me, plop it on a table and start printing for people. There was a lot of people impressed because they never seen a delta printer (or even a 3D printer) before.

I'm intrigued support hasn't gotten back to you yet. Do you feel comfortable opening up the unit to look in the control bay and look for a loose connection or similar? I suspect that may be a source for the issue, as the connections available for the accelorameter don't have any retention mechanism, and unless they have far more sockets than the "need" populated on the connector to the board, I wonder if they might have come loose during shipping? (As unlike the full size rambo, I2C is not given it's own latching connection point, instead it's buried in P3, on plain .1 pitch headers.) It would certainly help to explain an intermittent issue, as depending on where the harness got to more or less torque might be applied to those connections, causing them to connect or not. I do hope it's something simple that we are overlooking (Or that Seeme did), because despite that sort of thing being embarrasing, it's far better than having complex issues that crop up seemingly at random in a printer intended to largely be a turnkey system (And as they are tested before they go out the door, I doubt that Seeme would accept a failing calibration system as a ship-able component, and they should spot it).

I would agree that your printer would be ideal for all but a very few convention demo's. I cringe at the though of trying to move mine currently, or even when it's in a mostly closed up state, just due to the variety of systems and modifications shoe-horned and in some cases, bolted or wedged to the sides (I still haven't permanently mounted my cable duct, so that's the wedged one), and the sheer size. The Eris, if you added a 10 inch diameter acrylic tube to it, wouldn't have drafts to deal with, and would keep I^2's from sticking fingers into it, which is always good. (of course, according to my sources, that's a 120$ piece of tube to go for acyrlic). Definitely a good show printer, presuming that the individual unit works.

[img]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/VD78M ... 15-h912-no[/img]

P3 seem to be wedged together on the board fine.

I don't know if interference is to blame or not with the I2C which doesn't make sense because 3D printers are noisy things.

themitch22 wrote:My auto-calibration still doesn't work most of the time. I just have to keep running it and running it until it finally finishes. when I carry it around it probably shifts a little and z-height is a little off. I will literally run about 20 times some times z-probe failing until it gives up. Support never got back to me over email and the support chat wasn't responding. I'd be happy to fix my own auto-calibration if I could.

One a positive note: I took my Eris to demo at an anime convention, it was so nice to be able to carry this small 10lb printer with me, plop it on a table and start printing for people. There was a lot of people impressed because they never seen a delta printer (or even a 3D printer) before.

When did you try to contact Support? I had good results with chat,,, Not an instant response, but then I was busy myself and not monitoring the chat window. I did meet up with JJ at a MakerFaire in St. Joseph Michigan on Saturday, and it appeared he was manning the booth all by himself.

Just a quick update on the very first thing I've ever made with a 3D printer. Finished it this morning. I know this isn't a maker forum and I'm not going to flood with pics. but I seem to recall someone wondering what we would make with the new Eris. Here's what I made with mine... Thanks for an awesome printer guys...

Hi. I was an early purchaser of a stock Eris printer (#63) and wanted to report my experience so far.

I am an absolute beginner at 3-D printing, but I have the advantage of a friend who has been doing it for over a year. I have been using MatterControl for printing and have mixed feelings about it. Some of the problems I've dealt with don't seem very significant, in light of other reports I've read about in the forum, and I don't know what is legitimate and what is merely my inexperience. I suppose the biggest issue I have with the software is using an old laptop MatterControl doesn't seem happy with.

The printer itself has been a very positive experience. The stock configuration settings are adequate for getting decent prints. Using the spool of PLA supplied with the printer prints better for me at 205C than the default 210C. Extrusion rates seem very accurate to me, but the calibration cube was a little large by about 1% on the sides and height too short by about 1%.

I have not clogged the hot end, thanks to the notes documented by you early adopters. Many thanks for your advice. I also have less than 10 hours of prints on it, so time will tell.

I found that always calibrating before starting a print gives me good results. I nearly always have to remove the build plate to remove my prints; that always changes the leveling. I forgot to do it on an early test print and had the nozzle scratch the Ultralex on the build plate, nearly clog the head, and cause a filament feeding problem until about the third layer.

Fingerprints on the build plate keep the first slice of the print from sticking. Other times it's really tough to get the printed object off the plate. I cleaned my fingerprints off the plate with isopropyl alcohol and now I know to keep the plate perfectly clean.

I have been very pleased with the Eris (even though it lacks a manual) and hope things improve with more experience. Thanks again for everyone posting solutions to their problems. It has helped me get a good start.

https://youtu.be/wIfYs2bQBQ0

I got a video of what the auto-calibration is doing exactly. I'm not sure what the registry values are supposed to read. I also could try editing the eeprom values manually in MatterControl (tower height, horizontal radius etc). JATMN suggested using MatterControls bed leveling assistant, while a cool feature, didn't help me because it still crashed the nozzle. I do notice if it reads more than 0.01mm between the double-taps it fails, so something is triggering it pre-maturely. I don't know how to rule out interference or a intermittent connection, I don't know a lot about I2C or how the data is being read.

BTW my serial number is 40

Well I figured out how to manually calibrate Z max height which is at least helpful for the auto-calibration to have a reference point. I think once I get a successful calibration I'll save the EEPROM values in mattercontrol and restore them before running an auto-calibration.

themitch22, have you contacted support yet?

g.

geneb wrote:themitch22, have you contacted support yet?

g.

Yes I have, I'm working with support now. I got it to calibrate well once, so it's printing again. Thanks I realize it's a less common issue I'm having but it should stay calibrated between prints.

I made a simple tripod phone mount last night.
[img]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/XZFgq ... 82-h642-no[/img]

I have a outstanding request for support since sunday :/

So bug 'em again!

g.

I did! got some help lastnight.. waiting on replacement part.