I am kind of confused about the calibrating procedure as I find myself guessing the order in which to calibrate before I do heavy printing In Matter Control/Octoprint whenever a print messes up. I know there are many different ways but it would help to know a standard set of steps so that it eliminates guesswork of manually adjusting z-height and other methods. I feel there are many variables that can make a print go wrong and not having an accurate calibration from the get go is vital.
Here is an example of what I do using MatterControl:
Power On-G28-G29 three times-Print
But then sometimes my first layer is too close on a certain axis so then I repeat this process and it prints the first layer properly. Every other day I do the Delta Calibration from the website but not sure if I need to G29 again.
Using Octoprint + Repetier EEPROM plugin + Delta Calibration webpage, my first layer was too close and didn't try Octoprint until I have a full understanding of calibrating.
What do you experts recommend as a standard set of calibrating routines that I can incorporate into my builds? Still trying to get out of the newbie level
I usually turn on the machine and fire up the bed heat for 15-20 min (at the temp I actually intend to use).
Then I'll run the full calibration from the LCD panel at least 2 times. I believe this is directly equivalent to G29 through a host program.
Then I flip the light switch three times while I hold my breath.
Then I start the print.
If the Z0 seems wrong, which you can usually tell from the skirt, and always tell from the first layer - I do the calibration from the menu again, and try again.
Others will run the online leveling tool, but since it changes your arm length (which messes up your scaling) it's not useful to me and I wouldn't recommend it yet.
Joe, if you think a cartesian requires no calibration, I've got a bridge to sell you.
Djar, it sounds like you've got either a hardware problem causing things to drift or inconsistent autocalibration (It's hard to tell remotely unfortunately).
When it comes to calibration I would do
Power on
G28.
Print, most of the time. The various calibrations should be stored in the EEPROM. Unless there is an actual problem when you go to print, leave the existing calibration alone.
For initial calibration, turn the machine on, G28, then G29 2-3 times until it converges properly (it honestly should be only twice at worst since it should iterate in the code itself). Then the delta calibration wizard. Store all the data to the EEPROM properly, then every time you turn it on, just home and print. It is likely that too close layers are the result of a couple of things. A Z-probe offset that is incorrect, a first layer height setting that is wrong, or the temperature compensation between probing and printing is incorrect and needs to be fixed somewhat, usually with a Z-probe offset.
If I had to calibrate most machines every time I turned them on, I would throw them out a window (The only machine I do have to do that to so far is an old Adept 1 SCARA robot, and that's effectively just homing it, and besides, it's bolted to the floor). As for why I dislike Joe's flippant response, one only has to look as far as the Taz-6 which has been far more annoying for me to work with due to it's calibration than my customized Rostock, even if I ignored the Duet's very nice built in calibration.
Machines:
Rostock Max V2, Duet .8.5, PT100 enabled E3D V6 and volcano, Raymond style enclosure
Automation Technology 60W laser cutter/engraver
1m X-carve router
Xenocrates wrote:Joe, if you think a cartesian requires no calibration, I've got a bridge to sell
I should clarify. My Cartesian, once calibrated, does not need calibrating again unless I do something to it. It has been in the same state since August and has not required calibration. I was pointing out that deltas (and cheap Cartesians) need extra TLC.
Thanks for that Xeno, I am trying to rule out many variations and one pet peeve of mine is the bed clamps...I installed a PEI sheet so securing the glass down doesn't seem right to me. I would rather have all the bed mounts underneath fully secured and drill new holes for the clamps to be isolated. As far as inconsistent calibrations I just couldn't find documentation, searching forums people tried this and that so for newbies like me it is hard to figure out what is the proper order of steps to take instead of just trying random things.
Would you recommend I switch away from MatterControl and use Octoprint+rep plugin instead? And do I use the delta calibration webpage for Octoprint as well?
If you use the delta calibration a lot (I don't at all, like Joe I haven't had to recalibrate in months), I might suggest Octoprint. Mattercontrol is at best OK as a slicer, and I don't like using a USB cable for print hosting. You can still use the SD card with Octoprint, which is honestly what I would do in your position (other than potentially a Duet upgrade, since it's got all the calibration on board and produces nicer motion, but that's a lot more expensive than just a Pi). Octoprint has a calibration plugin, which I would suggest instead of the web-page.
With a V3, I'm a lot less familiar with things like the bed mounting mechanism, as I still haven't had a chance to go and play with a friend's one. I've got minimal ideas of how best to help you with the bed mounting. Hopefully someone like Mike will wander over to comment on it, since he's got a V3 and has been playing with the bed mounting and securing hardware.
Machines:
Rostock Max V2, Duet .8.5, PT100 enabled E3D V6 and volcano, Raymond style enclosure
Automation Technology 60W laser cutter/engraver
1m X-carve router
From what I read on forums, I am more than likely upgrading to the Duet Wifi + .9 steppers soon, I just wanted to understand and have a solid foundation of calibrating and troubleshooting since I am new to 3d printing and related software. Just trying to fill in the gaps is all. I repair electronics for a living so I check for power before replacing components, I strive to have the same mentality with 3D printing , thanks for the help!
From what I read, the Delta Calibration pertains to MC as mentioned in Step 1. Once I did that, I connected the Raspi and used Octoprint and did a G29 in there.
I did not use the Octoprint delta cal because I saw *** THIS IS VAGUELY TESTED SOFTWARE. USE AT YOUR OWN RISK. *** message, and I do not like these.
djarmag wrote:
I did not use the Octoprint delta cal because I saw *** THIS IS VAGUELY TESTED SOFTWARE. USE AT YOUR OWN RISK. *** message, and I do not like these.
It was meant as a joke.
The difference between the website calibrator and my plugin is that my plugin only does six factors - it won't mess with the arm length and screw with part scaling as a result.
