***UPDATE. I swapped the small ceramic fuses...the board works!!!
I found the following part on digikey: F1641CT-ND which I believe is the equivalent of 0448005.MR from the RAMBo manual. I ordered a 5 since I'm still stupid
![Embarrassed :oops:](./images/smilies/icon_redface.gif)
Any other thoughts?
geneb wrote:Do. Not. Work. On. Printer. With. Power. On.
EVER.
g.
Wanna bet? Prepare tools, heat about 10C over target, smack the power switch to off and then tighten.IMBoring25 wrote:There's not as much exposed conductive stuff on it to accidentally short, but the E3D is supposed to have its nozzle tightened at temperature. Not a lot of way around it for that setup.
You'd be surprised at how well a washcloth works for that. You can get packs of 'em at wally world pretty cheap and when they get packed with plastic boogers, you just toss it.Windshadow wrote:I have been wiping off the hot nozzle before and after each print with a scrap of old rough leather belt and then right before I print after doing a short purge of plastic,I rub the nozzle with the smooth side of the belt it seems to help a lot and keep the build up down but so far I am only printing ABS so i don't know how well this works with other filaments
Well, you can get unlucky a couple times, just depends on how many fingers you need to hold the belt.geneb wrote:Wanna bet? Prepare tools, heat about 10C over target, smack the power switch to off and then tighten.IMBoring25 wrote:There's not as much exposed conductive stuff on it to accidentally short, but the E3D is supposed to have its nozzle tightened at temperature. Not a lot of way around it for that setup.
You could make it easier by mounting the E3D upside down (nozzle pointing up) and then invert all three carriages. Easy access that way.
Working on a hot end or any other electrical components with the power on is about as bright as trying to change the fan belt on a running engine. Yeah, you might get away with it once, but you've got to be lucky EVERY. SINGLE. TIME. Murphy only has to get lucky /once/.
g.
I heat to temperature + a bit, kill the power and scrub down with a brass bristle brush from Woodcraft.Sheaffer wrote:So, anyway...while I still have all my fingers...and since I have little interest in purchasing cleaning towels with or without boogers...can anyone suggest a method to keep the nozzle clean(er) when using PLA?
The issue I have is that some of my print jobs are many hours long and often finish (or fail) overnight or while I'm at work. So the hot end is no longer hot and the PLA has completely hardened by the time I can address the problem.
I get that I can re-heat the hot end, but even then it is a goopy mess and is still really difficult to clean ... it is, after all, HOT with or without the power on![]()
I will try using a piece of scrap leather after re-heating and powering off as suggested earlier, but it feels like I shouldn't have to clean the nozzle constantly or replace a nozzle after only a week or so of printing. Any ideas?
[img]https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0032/ ... 1447800021[/img]Eric wrote:Someone had to mention changing belts while the engine was running:
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BQhfcdQf1QA[/youtube]
I've rebuilt a couple VW engines in my history, but I no longer owned any by the time I saw this video. So no, I haven't tried it.
Mine is just miscellaneous boogers.geneb wrote:You might check to make sure where the source of the goop is coming from - you may need to tighten the nozzle a bit if it's leaking.
g.