Welcome to the SeeMeCNC Community

IT LIVES... Plugged in the PSU and it lights and runs. The Max boots and drives the delta carriage nicely. Haven't checked the heated bed yet, but I don't expect any issues - I didn't touch that wiring. Just need to figure out how to neatly mount the new PSU in the gen 1 chassis, wire up the e3d ...

Will do, as soon as I can get it installed. Kiddo #2 (the new one) is up most of the night with acid reflux and nursing latch problems (he's got what's called tongue-tie, where he can't latch onto a nipple properly). Makes for long nights and days I don't remember much because I'm asleep or close to ...

The RAMBo boards haven't changed in layout (significantly) since they were introduced. Can you post a photo of your board? tnx. g. On closer inspection (read: I actually bothered to go stick my nose in the electronics bay rather than going from memory), you're correct; they're the same board. I ...

OK... I tracked down a dedicated 12v 30 amp power supply. I pulled up the Max v2 assembly guide to check how to wire it up, and noticed the Max v2's RAMBo is different from mine. Can I wire mine the same way, or is there something specific I should know ahead of time about how to correctly wire up ...

Whoa, 30 amps?

I don't even have a circuit in my house that can supply 30 amps (they're all 20 amp service). Beyond the heated bed - I'm assuming 12amps is peak load - just how much beyond that do the hot end, electronics, and steppers need?

Ok - I grabbed an old Xbox360 power brick to use as a new supply, since it has a buttload of amperage on the 12v supply (16.5 amps!). Any tips or warnings about using one of these? I've got a pinout diagram for it, just want to make sure I avoid any less-obvious pitfalls.

The power supply will drop out of the bottom of the machine - it's easily replaced. g. ? Mine is bolted in one of the interior cavities inside the lower base. Not sure I understand what you mean by dropping out the bottom? I have a relatively early Max, just after the changeover from the side to ...

Another note on the possibility of it being your power supply...what you're describing of it powering off during heatup and then being able to turn it back on later is exactly what happened when my power supply was failing. You might try blowing some compressed air through it to clear out any dust ...

Update: Tried turning it on via power switch again.

Turns right on and runs hot, straight and normal as if nothing happened.

Is there a hardware thermal cutout somewhere on the RAMBo that may have triggered that behavior, or possibly in the power supply?

Glacian22 wrote:You may also have blown out your power supply.

Ugh... Rewiring this thing with a new PSU is not something I'd look forward to..

I'm using the stock PSU. Any fast way to check if it's the root of the problem?

The automotive fuse is good. I'm not sure what to look for on the smaller fuse (the tiny white one). It doesn't look discolored at first glance. What do I look for on that one? The printer has been running fine for many months and this is the first distinct electrical problem I can recall. The *only ...

Had my machine turned on, heating up the build plate for a while (it takes a bit to come to temp, especially when it's colder in the house like it is right now). Suddenly the machine blipped off and the LCD went dark, no power at all. Cycling the power switch gets a brief momentary flicker on the ...

Uh... 1060 West Addison, Chicago, IL, 60613.

GOT IT!

Awwww yeah... It's like a whole new printer.

AWESOME!

What kind of intervals would you suggest? I have about a .15mm lift at the edges I can't chase down.

Do I adjust positive or negative to lower the outer edge?

Haven't posted in a while but am running into what I suspect is a delta tuning issue. Have a Max v1 (mid-late 2013) that I've upgraded with an e3d v5. Somewhere along the way, I either had it calibrated or THOUGHT I had it calibrated and simply didn't try to print close enough to the edge to realize ...

Well, it's printing the .5mm thin wall calibration cube just fine. I dunno what the issue was... we'll see if the file that was giving me problems works now, or if there's just something borked with it.

My previous firmware apparently had them all at 195... Should I use that or the 175 / 225 combo?

I was running a print that I know worked well with the previous (0.80?) firmware, since I had printed it prior to reflashing the machine. The print I'm having trouble with is new, so I wasn't sure if it's a gcode issue or a firmware issue. I'll check the extruder settings. EDIT: It's set to 92.4 ...

I'm having a couple of issues after I upgraded to the .91 firmware. - The machine seems to have very little buffer for commands anymore. A couple manual extrude commands with the GUI from Repetier-host jams it up. Baudrate is 25000 in all the settings though? - I'm getting an issue where a print ...

I've been having troubles with the RAMBo overheating and prints going off the rails. It takes hours with ABS, but I've been experimenting with Nylon and it's happening MUCH faster due to the higher temps (280c with an e3d v5 hotend). Does anybody who has added a fan to their RAMBo have pictures of ...

Tempered glass should be ok thermally but you can't cut it. As soon as the surface is broken by cutting or chipping it, the whole piece will "explode" into small pieces. It's manufactured under high stress for safety. Any break will release all the stress catastrophically reducing it to small bits ...

I have encountered this issue on my Max with long prints as well. I suspect that it is primarily an issue with people printing ABS and running the Onyx at 90-100c, rather than the much lower levels used for PLA. I have only ever printed ABS in my machine. Mayhaps this can be integrated into the ...

I had this exact same thing happen a few months ago. Did you use high-temp silicone to install the thermistor, or did you get impatient like me and just tape it in the hole with kapton because you'd had to mess with it like four times and were sick of busting thermistors that were each $10 ...