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Sorry if I missed the answer to this question, but are those brass threadserts set into the bracket for the screws? I kinda skipped over the posts talking about the arm/hotend mount upgrades. Yes, 1/4-20 heat-set inserts from McMaster (http://www.mcmaster.com/#93365a160/=x78n32). Since they're so ...

Hey! Haven't checked this thread in the longest time. Thought I'd update on the final iteration of the enclosure I ended up sticking with, especially since now I'm thinking of taking down a big part of it for another mod. The small and big panels are 4" and 14.5" wide, respectively. Height is ...

I'm interested in this enclosure, more for venting ABS fumes than for keeping the heat up (although the latter would be a nice bonus). I have some questions: I note that the components were designed for a Rostock MAX V1; any idea if they'll work with a V2? McM-C has two flavors of 1/4-20 heat-set ...

OP here. I used 1/4-20 heat-set inserts for the enclosure. It's true that they don't take that much load, but the heat-set inserts aren't absurdly expensive, and it's nice to not have to worry about them popping out anytime soon. The inserts are also easy to take out and re-use if you're junking the ...

Hi all, I've recently been seeing very thin strands of filament (~0.1-0.2 mm) hanging off in some of the parts (might be difficult to see in my attached image). These seem very different and much thinner than the loose filament strands you would see with over-extrusion. They're almost like the thin ...

How cold is the room where you keep your printer? Try printing with the workspace covered/enclosed, maybe with just a cardboard box for starters. I had my printer in a room at 20-21C, and I had similar cracking problems. Alternatively, if you have a small space heater or lamp lying around, direct ...

I wonder how well a hot air plastic welder would work. Basically a heat gun but focused through a small nozzle (1/4"-3/8"). I'll put it on the list to try. Currently it will come to the top of the list bout November. nitewatchman I got a hot air rework station from sparkfun to use for this. Haven't ...

That does look really cool! Well done. I'm interested in your effector plate / mount you have there. Got any close ups of that too? I second that one. It appears to be magnetic with a different end cups on the rods and a different effector. Would love more info. Sure. I detail it a bit more here ...

(copy-pasted from a thread I made in the deltabots google group) Have been testing a heated enclosure for my Rostock MAX a while back and thought I'd post some details here in case anyone else would find it useful and if anyone else has tried something similar with better results. Instead of ...

I Also am having bad stringing ( although it got worse after adding the PEEK fan and I don't know why) [yes I redid the PID calibration after PEEK Fan] minion_silk.jpg I tried to focus on the stringing in this photo, but I can see I had some motion blur. time to get a real tripod for the camera ...

Figured out the cause of the squiggling, sort of. The squiggling in the pathing is produced when the hotend tip is too high above the build plate. For some reason, my printer starts off high and then somehow settles later. So, at this point, it looks like an issue with my leveling and possibly my ...

For me, it was enough to play with the retraction settings (speed and length), making sure my nozzle diameter and filament diameter settings were right, and lowering the hotend temperature to prevent oozing. In my case, it turned out the stringing was due mostly to over-extrusion My settings ...

ok, it doesnt look too bad, but a few things I would change are in the start gcode, remove the following lines: G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops G28 Z0 ;move Z to min endstops and replace them with: G28 you only want the single G28 to home all the towers, same goes with the end gcode, remove the ...

if you could, post your start and end gcode from cura, also have you printed that file before? what can cause the retract forever is if there was not a G92 E0, but rather a G1 E0 (making it try to bring the extruder back to 0 from all the filament that has been already extruded). I have seen this ...

Came across a strange failure behavior yesterday: At the end of a job, the arms slowly sank down until the effector crashed into the finished part. The filament also seemed to fully retract through the bowden and popped out of the EZstruder. I was away from the printer at the time and didn't catch ...

I got an email last night from Taulman: Melting (Soft) Temp: 217 Print Temp: 242 Bed (Platform) Temp: 30-60 that's a lot hotter than I was expecting! I had it extruding just fine at 240-245, but my layers weren't adhering as I'd like. As Eaglezsoar said, I'd prefer to wait until getting an E3D or ...

geneb wrote:I really hope you're not using the stock hot end for that. You'll eventually destroy it at 250C. The PEEK section in the hot end has a maximum rating of 247C.

g.

Using Jhead w/ fan aimed at the peek section blowing at full power. Still crossing my fingers before every print =/

I've got one (not slic3r though) that has been working for me: extruder temperature: 250 bed temperature: 88 print speed: 25 mm/sec retraction length: 4mm retraction speed: 35-40mm/sec perimeter (cura): 1.25mm raft: on (2 layers) I applied Elmer's glue via glue stick because I didn't want to take ...

well, let dive into this a little bit more, give us all the details. printer version? material? temps? version of firmware? any upgrades you might have had? have you ever gotten a good print? is it because of the size of print? ie only outside a certain radius from center? are these files from ...

I am curious how your slicer is set up. I see no skirt, I see no brim. Which makes me wonder how the rest of your slicer is set up. yea thats why i was thinking raft You and Eaglesoarz are right. The picture shows the beginning of the raft, but even w/o raft, I still occasionally see that initial ...

in kisslicer make sure grid is disabled in slic3r make sure raft is set = 0 then watch in your gcode simulator to ensure that the first layer is a perimeters and infill path Thanks for the quick response! Nothing seems wrong in my gcode preview. I don't see any reason why the slicer would be ...

Hi, recently I've been seeing this error where the initial printed paths are squiggles instead of straight lines. This happens regardless of the slicer used, and only at the beginning of the initial layer. I then never see this problem in any of the ensuing layers. Has anyone else seen anything ...

Hi all, I've been working on a magnetic coupling as part of a tool-changer setup for the Rostock MAX and have recently started testing it. I'm hoping to get some feedback and suggestions for moving forward, if possible. It's based off the following post from Hackaday: http://hackaday.com/2013/09/17 ...

Purchased one of the more recent kits (judging from the components and the assembly guide) at the beginning of August. Took 3-4 days to get up and running. Had some initial issues with the ABS sticking properly to the hot plate, but otherwise, it worked a lot better than I thought it would. I was ...