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I don't know if I'd go so far as to say you're gambling an entire 2k... Sure, the whole thing could be worth that... but a simple drop to the floor probably won't do THAT much damage. Still, nice way to mount it though. Heh, yes, I may have been a bit overly dramatic there ;) Hopefully I'll never ...

It took over 35 minutes to heat my onyx bed to 100 with the stock power supply. I changed to a larger adjustable voltage power supply. It now takes around 10 minutes to get to 100 at 12.5v. At 15v it takes around 5 minutes to get to 100. This power supply has a current meter so you can ensure it ...

Nice SSR's for sale here... And it helps support the Smoothie board :) which is a great project. http://shop.uberclock.com/collections/all Thanks If I go with the SSR I will get it there. Been looking at a adjustable voltage power supply and may just run the entire system from 14-17 volts. One can ...

This bulb would melt duct tape for sure :D I used this for a day and then scrapped it. It was so bright! A couple times while looking at prints I got the direct blast in my retinas and it hurt. I just noticed another post with a LED ring that looks great. http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=35 ...

Nice SSR's for sale here... And it helps support the Smoothie board :) which is a great project. http://shop.uberclock.com/collections/all Thanks If I go with the SSR I will get it there. Been looking at a adjustable voltage power supply and may just run the entire system from 14-17 volts. One can ...

There is a hole in the base directly beneath the Onyx heat bed. When you put a fan inside to cool the Rambo board some of the air goes up and cools the heat bed thermistor. You need to cover the hole that I described with some tape so the air cannot go up there. You should not have to take anything ...

There is a hole in the base directly beneath the Onyx heat bed. When you put a fan inside to cool the Rambo board some of the air goes up and cools the heat bed thermistor. You need to cover the hole that I described with some tape so the air cannot go up there. You should not have to take anything ...

Hi I have been printing successfully with my printer for a couple weeks now. When printing ABS I set the bed temp to 100 dec C. Getting the bed up to temp is very slow but it would always get there until recently. The other day during a print I noticed the temp dropped to around 93 and would not go ...

I had this 50 watt 12v halogen flood light here and another old computer power supply already wired up so I came up with this. The light is extremely bright but it puts off so much heat it may affect the prints. Also this light pulls so much power I did not want to run it off the main power supply ...

FYI printing faster now with no build up (slippage on the extruder pulley). Extruder motor is also noticeably cooler. I am sure others probably already have done similar things but it is a simple thing that helps.

Hi, I have been noticing a bit of build up on the extruder drive wheel. I think it is caused by the drag of the spool when printing at high speeds. I had a piece of 1/2" all thread in my shop and it fit perfectly in the stock brackets on the top. I printed these bushing to fit the SeeMe ABS rolls ...

Thanks for the help everyone. It looks like that cured it. Now to try and figure out next 1000 things. FUN!! So what do you think cured it? Sorry I guess I did not explain. The only change I made was to move the wires for the extruder motor away from the Y post where they were. I have not had that ...

Thanks for the help everyone. It looks like that cured it. Now to try and figure out next 1000 things. FUN!!

You might also want to inspect your belts - a badly damaged tooth might do this as well as a cracked drive gear if you've got one of the older plastic gears with the metal core. g. OK I will take another look at them. I do have a newer kit that I just received about 2 weeks ago. The pulleys are all ...

Great suggestion. I do have my extruder motor wires running down the Z post. They are not going through the hole but are on the outside under the bearings but still could be close enough to be causing this. This may explain why it always goes away from the Z. I will move the wires and see if it ...

HI this is my first question of many I am sure. I just put my Rostock together and went through all the calibration steps. One problem I am having that I can not figure out is that during a print it looks like it shifts over to one side. It is very consistent in that it always goes towards about the ...

I just had the same problem. This fixed it. Thanks!!

Hi everyone,

I have been reading about printers for a while now and just purchased a RostockMAX a few minutes ago. I am looking forward to many hours of reading posts from everyone that has already worked through the set up of this machine.

Wish me luck

Interestingly, that's one of the reviews I found *before* I purchased my Rostock MAX. It concerned me a little because I hadn't done any 3D printing before and I was worried that perhaps I'd end up with the same problems. I e-mailed SeeMeCNC and John kindly responded that the reviewer hadn't ...