Welcome to the SeeMeCNC Community

Very nice printer, well done SeeMeCNC and congratulations to AlanZ. I'm a bit jealous
Regarding your motor problem, what does it happen if you take the motor off of the extruder? it still "flutters"?

Sorry Bob, by MC I meant Matter Control. If you have the printer connected to a host program, Arduino IDE won't work.
I'm glad it's working now, happy to help.

Also, if you get "Access denied". Make sure to disconnect Repetier Host, MC or any other control program from the board.

If you want to heat above 240ºc then change these lines:
As for the error, you could try with an older version of Arduino IDE, 1.6.0 always worked for me.

Is the same with a lower retraction speed? 20mm/s like default?
Have you tried with a layer cooling fan?

Woaaa nice! 24v system, Duet, AC Bed, Rails, huge printable area, this is awesome. https://www.seemecnc.com/collections/3d-printers/products/artemis-300 Good job guys. One thing, please don't take it wrong, the web page needs far more love. Too few pictures of the printers you are selling and poorly ...

Can't see the last pic.

+1 now.
I'm watching the bread forge atm and already love him.

With the "Keep ya dick in a vice" he bought my subscription.

Why did it melt? Are you runing the onyx at 24v?
Edit. Oh ive just read that one wire was loose.

Hello Joe!!! Thanks for asking. Missed me?
I was entering the forum at regular basis, but didn't log in.

I'm currently building a CoreXY printer and tinkering with the MPCNC.
With the Duet + Titan Aero the Rostock Max works like charm.

Hello and welcome!!! I'm half Spanish here My dad is from Guernica.
The 24v bed upgrade is one of the best mods you can give to your Rostock Max.

Have fun and happy printing.

Another option is to change the "Z max length" though EEPROM.
In order to lower the nozzle, you increase this value (with a bigger z length the printer thinks it has more room to move down).
To raise the nozzle, you decrease it.

Hi, my biggest recommendation would be to get an aluminum heat spreader, like this one: http://www.tricklaser.com/Heat-Spreader-for-Onyx-310-Bed-RM-HEATSPR-ONYX.htm and a PEI top surface: http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?t=7452 But for now, you can try this: * For PLA, I used to print it very ...

Now it hits me... It's just a leveling issue. The nozzle is too far when printing close to the Z axis.
Does the H2 has a screw that you can screw/unscrew in order to level that particular axis?

Do you get the same results with a different slicer?

Is it because of the camera lens or the centers of the tapered cube are inflated?

Hi, I can't contribute with the autocal apsect as I don't have the accelerometer board. But it could be tower lean.
Check the towers with a digital inclinometer or a good machinists square.

Hi, don't sell it, the learning curve is priceless. Yes, you are having some headaches and you will have more. But you built it!, and eventually you will diagnose it better than anyone else here. If you sell it just to get a plug n play printer, be sure that problems will come with that one too, but ...

Those pictures... That's like porn to me.

Joke aside, very nice looking parts Matthew.
Well done.

Hi, it could also be a wiring issue or a psu gone rogue.

Grab a multimeter and check the voltage.
Measure hotend and bed before and after you start the print.


Best of luck
Martin

The minimum retract distance at 5mm means it'll have to print 5mm before it even attempts a retract, you can try making this distance much smaller 1mm or even less. I belive is determined by the distance from "point A" to "point B" and not by how much it has been printed. But yes, lower that value ...

Why 100mm/s? I would be one of those to recommend to go slow. It's much safer and it practically doesn't affect printing time. It looks like it's a small print, with small islands very close to each other. If your minimum retract distance is set to 5mm, then I bet retracts are not beign triggered at ...

you made me laugh, thanks kas.
I needed that today.

Not me, sorry.
If you do buy it share with us how it prints.

Good luck with your build!

Great Don! Hope the new PSU solves it. Keep us posted. PS: I don't know much about electronics, but I do know if you open a power supply you shouldn't touch those capacitors. They could kill you. I'm not saying you don't know this, but as a warning for others. The capacitors can hold a charge for ...