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Still no luck.

Manually adjusted the end stops with manual locations was all I could do. Good luck if you encounter same issue. Not looking forward to changing glass plate or a nozzle.

Yes, I could probably print from it no problem, except one area is a somewhat too high from the bed during the first layer.

So, I've been using MatterControl for some time now for the (manual?) calibration process to get good prints. I mean, I am manually typing in calibration points and tweaking the endstop screws to get proper friction with a standard piece of paper. Just recently I wanted to recalibrate as my Rostock ...

I was thinking this would be my first check from the list in mhackney's post. The move to a non-air conditioned space was a main concern. I'm reprinting some test parts with a good sized fan on the board... we'll see! EDIT: The cooling fan was the solution, and the test prints were fine. Now ...

I've also run into this 'kickback' recently. Anyone find further solutions for this? I've had the rostock since January and have had successful prints without any kickback. The kickback seems to have occurred after two changes: 1) I moved the unit into my garage, in Florida, where temps are ...

Is it possible to buy an pre-made extension for the Nema motor that has the polarized connectors already on? I've tried to make my own for the overhead extruder motor without much luck -- the connections are very finicky and if I jostle the cord the motor stops extruding. Right now I have to run ...

At the risk of monopolizing the troubleshoot forum, and failing to find any previous threads on this... According to the Rostock wiki: http://reprap.org/wiki/Rostock#If_Rostock_loses_power.2C_does_the_print_head_fall_down.3F My print head shouldn't fall down because of the permanent magnets. But it ...

Well, I've checked the heated bed, extruder heater, and thermistor circuits, and couldn't find any issue there. One possibility -- the wire extension for this print (was a large print going out towards edges) may have jostled the thermistor connection but seems like unless it was very unlucky should ...

Hah! 'Slow on the uptake' -- you guys saved me massive grief. Thanks to you and Eagleszoar again! Now just hoping I can find these suckers without a week downtime...

There are three fuses on the Rambo, check each one for continuity. I only see the easy 15A one... and the reprap wiki doesn't identify. I guess I don't know what I am looking for for the other two? Are these the other fuses? If so, the top one appears to be blown (not reading continuity). [img]http ...

I was able to get 12V on the yellow and black at the connection to rambo, but the green status indicator was still off.

Lordblinky, i will check fuse again and remove wires... But i have rambo v1.2 and i think it is only external powered...

What should I look into here? The Rostock was printing off of the sdcard, maybe thirty layers in when it stopped printing. I was in the other room, and when I came back I found it frozen. System is off, and switching doesn't do anything. Plugging in the USB to the Rambo doesn't seem to turn anything ...

GarageBay9, I did use the RTV, but each time I've had to fool with this I do get impatient. But i found some cheaper NTC thermistors on Ebay, and am using that with some success. But with regards to the thermistor bond, the instructions are very clear to NOT coat the entire glass bead, and somehow ...

Quick Update, especially for any future people encountering similar issues. Does anyone know the thread size for the PEEK? I damaged the aluminum female threads getting the remaining PEEK out; and I need to chase the threads with a proper size tap. I am guessing M9x1? or M10x1? The PEEK replacement ...

Ha, I could see that being the case. I'd had some issues with the first thermistor, but it broke so it read as high resistance. I bought some thermistors from ebay, and those so far have been somewhat variable and not as steady on the temperature reported, compared to the original kit thermistor. I ...

Hey guys, first time posting on the forum. Just recently completed my Rostock MAX assembly, and had two good prints, calibration cube and a left jowl of a halo helmet. Had a few issues with bed sticking using the glass with hairspray. I'm used to Kapton tape on my Solidoodle, but was able to finally ...