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Understood! I like to create success and then build incrementally. I suspect that 50mm/s with a .35mm nozzle is a bit too fast. There is a big difference between .4 and .35mm diameter in terms of area. Sounds like you are not using an ezStruder correct? So investigating your extruder is a good idea ...

Understood! I like to create success and then build incrementally. I suspect that 50mm/s with a .35mm nozzle is a bit too fast. There is a big difference between .4 and .35mm diameter in terms of area. Sounds like you are not using an ezStruder correct? So investigating your extruder is a good idea ...

Glacian22, your nozzle arrived here today too, thanks. ceramichammer, maybe start a little more moderately - a 2 hr print, lower the speed to 30mm/s and see what happens. I am still skeptical on the low thermal conductivity path between the block and nozzle and that might be causing problems too. I ...

I'm so frustrated I think I might just pop. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=klVhwlwHhY4 I ground a 1/8" drill bit to around 70 degrees and "hand drilled" 2x 0.35mm nozzles to a bore length of ~0.5mm. I quarantined all of my existing PLA (4042 PLA from an unproven vendor) and bought a bunch of new ...

JohnStack wrote:And then there's the bowden tube!!!

I just checked it. I would have never thought this. Check the video highlights!!!

The first is a SeeMeCNC-supplied Bowden, the second is one I got with an E3D purchase.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xbfa1u76fKY

You've summed up my sentiments.

Yes, I didn't have any 60° bits and was too lazy to grind one. And frankly, after seeing the J-Head with the same angle, I put less emphasis on that dimension. The shorter nozzle bore is certainly performing much differently and much better so far. But, I will not be convinced until I have at least ...

Yes, I am talking about the .40mm bore's length. There are photos I posted this weekend showing that the E3D bore is 2mm long - much longer than other nozzles. I simply drilled the 2mm hole that leads up to the .40mm bore a bit deeper with pin vise and 2mm drill bit. I'll try to draw something ...

to get most thermal transfer to nozzle why not screw the nozzle into heater block FIRST until flat seats against block, then thread heat break in from other side until it bottoms against nozzle, then lastly screw heat break into the cooling fin body?? I have not done this yet, but am planning on ...

ceramichammer, your photo clearly shows how little contact surface the E3D nozzle has! The base of the nozzle itself does not snug up against the heated block by design and on top of that, there is an untreated section right above that so heat isn't able to transfer conductively until the first ...

Well so far so good today. As I ramped the speed up to >50 mm/s I did have to bump the temp up to 190°C but that is typical with other hot ends. I am still guardedly optimistic about this insight. I'm looking forward to hearing from E3D-systems and printing many, many more parts successfully. That ...

Before I write this, don't hate me... I have my Rostock. It prints ABS. I have a Robo3D. It prints PLA (but slower). It has its own issues but... Both have E3DV5 heads. I've blown both out. (Remember, I'm the king of hot end blow outs...) Anyway, the Robo: After the last blowout, I took 1,500 grit ...

FWIW I stripped my first one down multiple time and ran drill bits and reamers through it on my lathe. I suspect that the bulk of the issues have to do with the finish on the inside of the stainless section, the variance of which is probably a function of how long the manufacturer uses a given ...

FWIW I stripped my first one down multiple time and ran drill bits and reamers through it on my lathe. I suspect that the bulk of the issues have to do with the finish on the inside of the stainless section, the variance of which is probably a function of how long the manufacturer uses a given ...

FWIW I stripped my first one down multiple time and ran drill bits and reamers through it on my lathe. I suspect that the bulk of the issues have to do with the finish on the inside of the stainless section, the variance of which is probably a function of how long the manufacturer uses a given ...

I hope this is the case (in a weird way) because I'm longing for the awesome ooze resistance of the e3d with PLA McSlappy, I feel your pain. I posted similar issues a few weeks back. Although I have the 3mm version, the failure mode appears identical. I now have 3x E3D v5 hotends and every single ...

I switched current to 220 and uploaded that... and did a couple of other things. - Put an aluminium foil shield between the lower part of the fan and the heat block in case there was some air washing over the thermistor and giving me bad readings. - Put slic3r back on it's default extrusion width ...