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PS. I also tried different slicer and slicer settings. No luck.

Hello, I have 2 Rostock Max's a V1 and V2, both upgraded to the following: Axteeg X3 Pro, Viki2 Display panel, 24V bed, thermistors and Fans E3D V6 hot ends. Recently I upgraded the V2 Hotend to the E3D Cyclops, and upgraded the Extruders to the BondTech QRs. One other change, was the voltage to the ...

I was able to use .92.9 FW generated. I followed the calibration steps in the appendix of the 4th Ed Users manual as instructed and changed "Horizontal Rod Radius at 0.0" when the calibration steps specified changing "Horizontal Radius". the Initial value there was 130, and I did two .5 increments ...

Hey Nylon, I installed the v.92.9 firmware you created, made a few changes to Baudrate and MaxLengths, and compiled and uploaded the Firmware and EEPROM. I've attached a side by side of my v.92.8 FW and your V.92.9 FW below for your review. They both contain some, but not all, of the same setting ...

But Gene, the calibration procedure calls for adjusting "Horizontal Radius"' in the EEPROM, and I can't do that Because it's not listed in my EEPROM settings. If I can get it there I'd be ecstatic to finally, for once, calibrate my printer.

Regarding Firmware versions, actually, I've been stuck with the same .92.8 version for half a year now. I reached out for help with that issue a month ago, via commenting in another thread, http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=84&t=8778, but hadn't gotten any responses. My Issue is NOT being ...

I put EEPROM_MODE up at the top for convenience in changing it's value. Changing EEPROM mode from 0->1, 1->2,1->0, 2->1 to load firmware to EEPROM is something I've done dozens of times with multiple Repetier Firmware versions, from SeeMeCNC Website links as well as FW generated with the repetier ...

And Here's my EEPROM Settings...

Okay, Here's my config.h /* COPY 2 4/25/16 Copy with working Homing */ #ifndef CONFIGURATION_H #define CONFIGURATION_H #define EEPROM_MODE 0 #define NUM_EXTRUDER 1 //RK #define MOTHERBOARD 35 //RK #include "pins.h" #define DRIVE_SYSTEM 3 ...

I can post the config.h. I'm not sure where this version of of FW came from. I think it was originally from a link in the Rostock max v1 assembly guide, then maybe imported in the Repetier FW config tool, updated to my config with Azteeg x3 pro and viki2 But over the years I have tried many Repetier ...

For Years!

I have never seen "horizontal radius" in EEPROM or anywhere else, and have never been able to calibrate my 3D printer, even with the original Rambo installed. Another thing I have never been able to do is Print with EEPROM mode set to 1, z-height is all screwey,head crashes happen, homing issues ...

I have a Rostock Max V1. I replaced the Rambo with an Azteeg X3pro, and the LCD display with the Viki2 display. I use Repetier version .92. I'm trying to calibrate the printer but I can't because "Horizontal Radius" is not present in EEPROM. Making changes to "Printer_Radius" in firmware appears to ...

So I have the Rostock MAx with Azteeg X3Pro and VIKI2 display, and I have a working version of Repetier .92 with the Viki2 display working. My issue is that I need to generate a new firmware configuration using the Repetier firmware configuration tool, and when I do, and select the Viki2 display ...

Okay, that was it. The needle-nose players would slip. it took a little bit of brut force, but with a firm grip with wire cutters on the tube closer to the coupling, I was able to get the tube through the coupling and into the heat break. Finally!

Ok, I watched the video. That helped. I think the problem I'm having is that I'm not inserting the tubing while everything is disassembled. I'm inserting he tubing after everything has been been mounted. Consequently, I can't get my fingers close enough to the cooler block while inserting to support ...

Ok, I tried again. I see what you are saying, the tube doesn't go in very far. The brass rings won't fit. I inserted the plastic couplings again, and then attempted to insert the tubing, but again it goes in a little, but not in enough to secure the tubing. It will pull right out. I'm thinking maybe ...

I still don't know what I am doing wrong. My problem is after I put the plastic coupler into the cooler block, I cannot get the tubing to fit through the coupler at all, much less to the heatbreak. I didn't have the brass ring component in the first round. It looks like I received big black things I ...

I'm having trouble getting the tubing secured into the kraken cooler block. Once I insert the couplings into the cooler block, I'm unable to feed the tubing through the cooler block and into the heat breaks. I destroyed the plastic couplings trying to get them to work and then removing them. I just ...

Ya, there's no getting around the fan noise of the 700w power supply. I decided to keep the ps external to base, so mine sits behind a file cabinet which muffle the fan noise some, And I have a water resorvoir where the old ps was mounted in the base.

So, you have a 24V current limiting power supply connected to an SSR and then to a 12V or 24V bed? And you have 24V coming from your power supply and going into a 24Vto12V step-down that goes to your controller to power everything else, hot ends, LED Light ring, and fans which are all 12V, Correct ...

Ya, I think it will work, perhaps help even, with more even heat dissipation. With paste over the entire surface area, I think it would stay in place, not by adhesion, but suction. I'm more concerned with the possibility of damage resulting from heating up, liquefying from being too hot, dripping ...

Hi All, :D I've seen a couple references in the past about using two motors for Z. I looked but couldn't find them again,I never really understood this or why you would want to do that. But I happen to have an extra motor and driver.Can anyone shed any light on using two motors for Z for me? Thanks ...

Hi Again. :D I have an *24V Onyx hotbed from seemecnc. I have an aluminum heat spreader for the Onyx that I got from trick laser. I have a large tube of really good thermal paste I want to put between the two. I'm hoping it would help keep it secured in place and transfer heat between the two. What ...

:) Hi! I have a 750W 24V 30amp Power supply supplying 24V to an Azteeg X3 Pro controller and subsequently to the 24V Onyx hotbed? I can also reconfigure to supply up to 30V 20AMP directly to the hotbed(s), I have two hotbed outputs I could use. I removed my 12V Onyx hotbed. I have an SSR-100DD and ...