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We are taking exclusively 1.75mm setups here. Both the Rostock and Orion deltas come stock with 1.75. Was there a reason you switched to 3mm? I have no experience dialing in a 3mm setup but I don't know why it would take more retract, unless there is a lot more hysteresis in the 3mm Bowden ...

Most likely Gene. I discovered that fast retracts are not good with PLA. Moist likely because the melt is thixotropic (that's for you Eagle). So, 25 mm/s works quite well. 2 mm retraction should be more than plenty to withdraw. This would be a good starting point and then decrease retraction in ...

On the topic: I've successfully managed to print a 8,5 hour print today. I've used a little bit of vaseline on the first 30 cm of the plastic to lube things up. The rest of the print happened I did not lube any more. I printed at 15mm/s, at 205 deg.

I'm attempting another print, a bit faster speeds this time. I feel that the heat is rising up and that is causing the jams. I need to find the sweetspot between too cold or too fast and get nozzle jams, or too hot or too slow and jam in the heatbreak.. It can be frustrating to find that sweetspot ...

I'm attempting another print, a bit faster speeds this time. I feel that the heat is rising up and that is causing the jams. I need to find the sweetspot between too cold or too fast and get nozzle jams, or too hot or too slow and jam in the heatbreak..

Another jam, printing at 210 degrees (10mm/s) constant extrusion, no retracts.

This is what it looks like when i retract the filament from the hotend.

Don't trust the Ice King, Finn - you know his plans are no good! And Icy! I found that shortening the bore of my nozzle did improve ooze quite noticeably but I still fail on PLA prints. Interestingly it seems that the faster I go, the more likely the print will succeed :) still testing this, but I ...

I haven't done this with 3mm filament. You could coat take the nozzle off, cut a 4" section of filament. Coat the tip of it with mineral oil or vaseline - sparingly, then hold the nozzle in pliers and heat with a lighter or candle, pushing the filament through. As soon as a little comes out the tip ...

My first attempt to remove the filament was a failure. I had my pliers in the freezer as well, to make sure the nozzle didn't heat up too quickly. Unfortunately when I twisted, the filament twisted too and it broke off at the end of the nozzle. There was no more filament to grab, so I reset the ...

And that, coming from the Ice King Are the Adventure Time avatars a thing here?

I used a 1/8" bit I had. It was a Milwaukee one, I think it was 135 degree point. I got to around 1.3mm I think before I broke it. So if you try it with a 3mm bit I wouldn't go much more than 1.4. I got a 2mm drill. I have Didn't manage to pull the PLA from the nozzle though. Is there a trick to do ...

It is in the freezer now. Ill update when I get it out and measure.

I've read up on the whole bore length story, very interesting. Especially since I actually got a E3D because I thought it would print PLA just fine! I'd rather have it working, but I ain't scared of a challenge to fix this problem. Retract speed has more influence than distance. Keep it at 25mm/s ...

I'm having a lot of the same issues as other people here. Basically I have tried over 10 prints, only 1 succesfull so far: all due to jammed PLA. What is going on? I have a E3D v5 3mm. I'm using 3mm PLA in a bowden setup, already tried different types of PLA, doesn't seem to make a difference. How ...