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Have you tried reflashing the firmware on the Rambo?

Misread originally. I saw someone on here who removed the PTC fitting on the EZstruder and drilled out the hole so that they could push the PTFE tubing all the way up to the gear, and also snipped the end of the tubing so that it was more or less flush with the surface of the gear.

My goal is to eventually get to the point where I can 3d print a full R/C aircraft, but at the moment I'm experimenting with some gliders that I plan to launch off the dunes at the beach to check their stability. The biggest problem I'm having is that my 3d models don't have the same weight ...

I have been having the same problem and I think it is mostly a slicer problem. I think what is happening is that the extruder nozzle doesn't go all the way to the perimeter because the slicer assumes that the plastic will flow forward a little bit and fill in the gap, but if the filament doesn't ...

The problem with your theory is that we use stepper motors to drive the extruder. Unlike servo motors, or brushed and brushless motors, the torque curve for stepper motors drops rapidly the faster the rpm. How rapidly it drops depends on the particular motor. Some have flatish torque curves, some ...

I'd say on a larger nozzle a smaller filament is better for 2 reasons. One, with such a large nozzle there is very little resistance to feeding so you can extrude much faster, and move faster as well, which a stiffer filament will only hinder. The other is that with a smaller filament, for a given ...

Have you tried painters tape with glue? Just peel the old tape off after each run then retape.

So I've been having some thoughts lately about some of the heated enclosure designs I've been seeing on here, and it occurs to me that most people are neglecting an easily addressed aspect. Here's the outside of the enclosure I'm using. Looks like I just hung a shower curtain, right? WP_20140825_16 ...

Do it long and skinny and add some support fins with a large raft, otherwise it will almost inevitably fall over once it gets to about 6-7 inches in height.

Check your extruder gear. It may be gunked up.

I've used kapton, blue painters tape, glue stick, and abs juice. ABS juice works the best in my opinion. Adheres really well when hot and pops off when cold, plus you get a nice glossy surface on the bottom of the print.

You're probably printing too fast with the pyramid and the layers aren't cooling enough before the next one is laid on. As for the bridging, I use a bridging multiplier of .75 in slicer, but I have also found that sometimes the bridging problems are actually slicing problems, when I do the cube it ...

I've printed a few things with raised type on them. Most of the time there will be gaps on the surface even with 100% infill unless your slicing is perfect.

My first thought is that there is something wrong with your calibration. If height is wrong, it may be dragging the head through the part which would cause all sorts of issues. That's the only thing I can really think of unless you have some seriously massive overextrusion going on.

I've got a line and I've done some experimenting. I think bare glass plus the purple glue will work best for adhesion unless you have the garolite sheet. Still have some issues with warping, though.

Thermistors are non linear. Thermocouples are (nearly) linear.

Finally got around to trying out the black regular ABS I ordered from them, and it's total garbage. I think it may be due to the pigment in it, but I can't for the life of me get decent layer adhesion even with temps up to 265ish

Looks awesome! However, if something were to happen to the scope and you had to print another, I would suggest changing the .stl settings and decreasing the angle size and deviation so that it doesn't look quite so faceted.

Vacuum would almost certainly be a no go. Radiative heat transfer is not terribly effective and its unlikely the previous layers would have cooled sufficiently. I'd look for some sort of chemical/fume hood with a suppression system.

I used rubber bands on mine. I use a pair for each set of arms, and have them placed right where the truss structure on the arm meets the U.

Aluminum is where it's at for heater blocks. You want something with high thermal conductivity so that the temperature across the whole block is as even as possible, and low mass to reduce the weight of the effector. Aluminum fits the bill for this perfectly. Copper would be a good alternative ...

Polycarb or Nylon would be the best materials for this. If I recall correctly, Taulman nylon is rated as foodsafe according to their spec sheets. I wouldn't worry too much about bacteria or anything either, the high temperatures this will be exposed to will be enough to keep it free of dangerous ...

The problem with the non contact thermometers is that the measuring area is too big for the hot end. To get a decent measurement of the hot end temperature you need a thermocouple probe.

I'm an impulse shopper and I couldn't resist the urge to sign up.

If you're just doing metal, it's not too difficult if you're willing to go with the bare minimum. I built a small furnace on the back porch of my high school art studio, which consisted of an igloo of firebricks, a blower, and a propane burner. We melted aluminum in a large soup can and the plaster ...