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Should work fine. My current solution is to not set the have any of the bed preheat commands in the startup code, I just manually set the bed temperature and walk away for 10 minutes. I do that now, only it takes the bed 30 - 45 min to heat and the RAMBo times out the heaters if I don't keep ...

Great info, everyone. Thanks for your input. Aside from going through the Firmware, I am considering placing an "M116" (Wait) in the line after the M190 and then place the M109 after the M116. Reason: Preheating via RAMBo, the hot end always comes up to heat very quickly, causing filament to ooze ...

Where is the Config.h file located?

Thanks, Mylocke

What settings in the EEPROM Values will allow changing the RAMBo default Preheat ABS/Preheat PLA temps?...if any...????

I am fairly satisfied with my prints so far, but, on the Bottom (first layer) there are always the ridges between the successive passes of the nozzle (like the groove in a vinyl LP recording). How should I adjust which setting to merge these passes to create a smooth and shiny surface? I don't want ...

A lot of learning what's causing issues is watching the printer print, to see why something is happening. It's another reason to pick quick test prints for identifying and correcting print quality issues. For example if you have a cooling fan on one side of the Hotend, often you will see a ...

I have been doing jobs for the company I work for. Mostly optical mounts and R&D bread board stuff. My printer makes the same hourly rate as I do. Last week, while my Max was sick, they got a quote for a few simple parts. Turned out to be about twice as much as I charged. That was also with ...

Hi all, I have a Rostock Max v2 and when I complete the parts I, or rather, my Partner, purchased it to make, I will be keeping the printer and soliciting jobs to do on it. My customers will be primarily engineering/manufacturing companies and Tool & Die Shops in need of rapid prototype parts. I ...

Hello from Hickory Flat, Mississippi...yea, I hear you snickering...Well, I live half way between Elvis' Home in Tupelo and his Mansion in Memphis, Tennessee. That puts me 2 blocks off I22, exit 48 (or 48 miles SE of the Tennessee/Mississippi Border. Lived in Memphis quite a few years, worked in a ...

I am printing from SD card, and being new at this venture, could someone share their procedure for changing to a new spool, same material, mid print on the Rostock Max v2 using the SD card...Thanks

I'm attaching my Cura settings here - there are probably still loads more optimizations to be made, however these seem to work reasonably well right now. This one has a fairly aggressive support angle due to a model I was working on - feel free to customize as necessary and post your updated ...

imagebuff wrote:I just heard a podcast that discussed multiple ways of glueing PLA parts together. The resounding success story was to use good ole Testors model glue.

Chris

Terrific!...( I hope the "smell" is good as it always was...) LOL!!

for our solid color pla, I use hairspray on the glass, bed temp 65, hotend 205... I saw you had 15 solid layers, thats a lot of hot plastic.. may be whats causing the curling, I've really only done about 5 as the highest, but also you want the fan on layer 2,.. not having the fan on for 15 solid ...

guanu wrote:When I glue 2 PLA parts together, I use superglue... works great... for abs parts I use acetone.. since it basically melts the parts together

Guanu

Can PLA items with minor irregularities, non smooth surfaces be bonded with a Rosin or Epoxy based material? If so, recommendations?

Is there a description or guide to all the commands available in the RAMBo via the LCD menu? Like Abort Print, Pause (to change Filament spools, etc.)? What each sub menu does?

if its the spool that came with the orion, what color is it... if its the 1 pound spool of blue, thats pla.. if its natural, its abs... if its the blue, you will want to go to a 60-65 bed, and a 205 hotend... all the orions for the past few months have been shipped with blue PLA... Guanu It was ...

Well...only 12 hours in and results are much worse than WITH heat.
Like the first, the first 15 layers are filled, the rest are only 3mm thick wall to the top (around 700 layers).
Started with fan off, then on at layer 15.
Started with bed heat @ 50C then off at layer 5.
Any suggestions?

If using glue, apply when the bed is cold and then warm it. If using hairspray, apply when the bed is warm. In either case, you have to wait a little bit for the moisture in the adhesive to evaporate. Touch the bed to make sure it isn't still moist. Otherwise, it acts like grease instead of ...

2 and 4 folds of paper for the gap between the glass and the nozzle when everything is at operating temperature is way too much. The directions call for 1 sheet of paper to barely fit in the gap. Well, I said: I don't know what the gap between the nozzle and bed glass is cool , but I do know it is ...

If using glue, apply when the bed is cold and then warm it. If using hairspray, apply when the bed is warm. In either case, you have to wait a little bit for the moisture in the adhesive to evaporate. Touch the bed to make sure it isn't still moist. Otherwise, it acts like grease instead of ...

I assume this is your impellor,,,,, What setttings are you using for perimeters? What type of infill are you using? What is your infill density set at? Got a question on INFILL...I do not need any infill in the part I am doing now...what do I set to eliminate infill? As you can see in the part the ...

guanu wrote:When I glue 2 PLA parts together, I use superglue... works great... for abs parts I use acetone.. since it basically melts the parts together

Guanu

Awesome, Thanks!

What is recommended for bonding multiple parts together, permanently? PLA? ABS? NYLON?

Just another thing...once sliced in Cura, What to do with it?

Do you only have the option to load the G-Code to a Card? Can the code be loaded into Matter Control or Repetier-Host? and is there a preferred sequence to do so?

Sorry..Super noob...I'm learning...