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A def indication is indeed an inability to read the thermistor. This is usually caused by a loose wire to the thermistor. To check turn off power and unplug the thermistor from the Rambo and with an ohm-meter measure the resistance of the thermistor, at room temperature the thermistor should read ...

This just happened to me too last night. Same circumstances, 13 hours and 16 minutes of run time, recently upgraded to E3D v6, which I have gotten some prints out of then all of a sudden both bed and nozzle went to "def." I will check the wiring/resistance, and let you know what I find :evil ...

Wow!!! Thank you guys for all the info, and detailed pictures. Your V2 looks really trick!!!!! This has saved me a lot of consternation and heartache especially if the PC prints will work without the modification. The fluctuation described is puzzling, and if I learn more on the root cause I will ...

Is anyone using the external thermocoupler on Rostock Max V2 with the E3D V6 Hotend to achieve higher temps? If so, would you be willing to share wiring diagrams on the Rambo, and any calibration/setting tips? Especially for use with PC prints?

THANK YOU!!!

Hey Guys! Its been a little while, but I got the Rostock kit, built it, and tested it. It makes really great parts! Now Im ready to upgrade the hotend so I can print in PC. While Im waiting for the E3D V6 to arrive I thought it might be good to return to this thread to better prepare for the PC ...

Ahhhh!!! Hahaha the Magyver fuse!!

WIsh it was that easy... I got the parts on order check these things out... 5A fast trip... They are about the size of a grain of rice: https://ultimachine.com/content/fuse-0448005mr# I will follow p with some pics here in a bit

I am concerned about what happened to this fuse... Not bragging, but my wiring/soldering is immaculate. I don't know where to get replacement fuses either, any suggestions?

Yes... I checked the resistance on the large fuse, and pulled the two smaller ones. One of the little guys is bad or blown. I am fairly certain this is the problem. Before pulling them I was checking the voltage across the fuse, and when I placed the probes on the board I could hear the motors ...

Ahh man... I am having a similar issue, stuck on the same page... only my carriage motors are not getting power. I am going to start testing fuses here in a minute

Thanks again!

The steppers are not getting power. So I am guessing this is stemming from a problem on Rambo The big 15 fuse is intact, but it looks to me like there are at least two other smaller micro fuses on the board. WIll check these out.

Nevermind... found it It is not a computer issue.

I agree. The last line on the LCD says ROSTOCK MAX read. Where is this home towers button located?

Hey Teoman,
I can move the carriages up and down. Just as before the unit was ever turned on. So I would say they are loose.

Here is whats happening in commands before ever activating the home icon:

07:44:33.252 : N55 M105 *55
07:44:36.340 : N56 M105 *52
07:44:39.403 : N57 M105 *53
07:44:42.465 : N58 M105 *58
07:44:45.528 : N59 M105 *59
07:44:48.591 : N60 M105 *49
07:44:51.654 : N61 M105 *48

Here is a copy of the log command field upon connection: 07:41:51.355 : OpenGL version:4.2.0 - Build 10.18.10.3316 07:41:51.357 : OpenGL extensions:GL_EXT_blend_minmax GL_EXT_blend_subtract GL_EXT_blend_color GL_EXT_abgr GL_EXT_texture3D GL_EXT_clip_volume_hint GL_EXT_compiled_vertex_array GL_SGIS ...

Thank you for htis, but I tried this too. The motors are simply not responding in anyway to the commands issued by Repetier. In the log field I can see the commands rattling off, and I can see the LED processor light on Rostock thinking about what it has just been told, but absolutely nothing ...

Hello All, I am a little concerned here. I have made it through the entire build, no problems.... But I got to page 224 in the manual and after my Rostock Build passed the X,Y,Z limiter test within Repetier the problems began. When I hit the home button instead of the cheapskates going up or down ...

Hey I have been following this thread. The Platform looks great! I just ordered my Rostock Max V2, and it has not arrived yet. However, I will be swapping the stock hot end for the all metal E3D v6 to print PC. Just curious if this Platform you made here is required for the E3D v6 mod? If so what ...

Hey I have been following this thread. The Platform looks great! I just ordered my Rostock Max V2, and it has not arrived yet. However, I will be swapping the stock hot end for the all metal E3D v6 to print PC. Just curious if this Platform you made here is required for the E3D v6 mod? If so what ...

I'm a big fan (punny) of a properly cooled E3D hotend. As far as being interchangable, not entirely sure what you mean, does it fit easily? Yes. Is it easy to hook up in a similar way to the stock hotend? Yes. Do you have to be a little more careful about printing with PLA? Absolutely, don't let it ...

Prior to printing with PC I always pre-dry it in an oven overnight before use. Really helps it be less problematic the next day during printing. As far as drying temps for the oven go, it will vary from brand to brand so my numbers will not really be helpful to you and your area. But Ultimachine PC ...

You won't get good results with PC and the stock Hotend, I'd probably try an E3D. The gotcha with PC outside the high temp requirements is it is extremely hygroscopic, and once the water is absorbed it doesn't print clear, one test I saw, showed a difference in clarity between the day it was ...

Thanks for the information! That E3D is the best deal I have seen. Thank you again!