Welcome to the SeeMeCNC Community

Its not possible to easily start a failed print again. I suppose it would be done if you could cut the G-code where it failed and start it from there but I've never done that. I know that in Simplify 3D you can try to measure a print at the point where it failed and start the print at that point but ...

It's, it's.. Beautiful :')

Well that's put me to shame! That's fantasic! What slicer are you using? Also what retraction settings do you use? I dunno how ABS bridges compared to PLA but anyway thanks for sharing!

That's interesting! I've never seen that before. You'd be limited by the hotend somewhat because if the high point on the print but it'd be cool to see this working on the deltas. Thanks for the post.

Damn that's criminal! :x I fail to see why anybody would buy the machines that take them! The print quality doesn't look spectacular either. An example that really hit my friend was the cartridges that the XYZ daVinci takes. 600g of ABS for $30. That's far more than I pay for 1KG. What makes it even ...

As for the bottom layer I found that I got results like that when my E-Steps was out. Calibrating that helped a load of other problems too. There's a pretty good video on YouTube for it (Using the RMax) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XbX5Ilmc8m0

Hope this helps!

I wanted to test the Orion's bridging capabilities so I thought that printing a chair without supports would be a good test, especially the seat part of it. I used this file: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:658474 Print video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E0Tw6T-mZ6E&feature=youtu.be IMG_6235 ...

In one of my Filament orders I thought I'd try a sample of thermochromic ABS. It changes from dark green to yellow with a change in temperature. So I thought it would be cool to make the layer and PEEK fan housings out of it. IMG_6137.JPG IMG_6136.JPG Works pretty well doesn't it? It changes colour ...

Looking good! Lets hope the shut-off isn't anything major. I don't think its too late to buy a lottery ticket just yet, you never know!

Yeah this looks like it was printed way to fast. If you are printing in PLA a layer fan will fix most of the problems but you might still have to slow it down a bit.

As for the infill in some slices you can change the infill overlap so it won't go through the sides.

Hope this helps!

Oh wow! I'll have to check that out!

Thanks Eagle! I just found this again! all the info i needed.

T-Glase isn't that bad! I've had some good luck with it on my Orion. but yes you do need to slow the thing down to a snails pace and large layer heights are very pretty. I found increasing the nozzle diameter in the slicer to 0.6mm (its the standard 0.5 mm nozzle) helps with vases. Also I should add ...

A recent cool thing I printed was a sign from the popular game Fallout New Vegas. Link to the model: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:282357 IMG_5390.JPG IMG_5396.jpg Once you get it sliced correctly (only Cura worked properly) and paint it up it comes out to be a really good model, so much that i ...

What's better than an R2-D2 orion? A light up all guns a blazin R2-D2 Orion!

Nice work!

Also interesting that the IR filter seems to make the blue acrylic side panels completely transparent! You can see the pullys ect..

Haha! Yeah Git! Forgot that it's not used that much out if the UK and I wasn't sure if it would be acceptable for a forum (I didn't know how people out of the UK would think of it) better to be safe than sorry. The camera as a Foscam : http://www.amazon.com/Foscam-FI8910W-Network-Camera-Two-Way/dp ...

The printers upstairs, I'm downstairs! Oh no!

The solution for a fat lazy g*t like me is to use a camera! But seriously it's brilliant for the quick check to see is she's still going!

Sorry if this has been posted before. Anyway I've been looking to upgrade my Orion's hot end to the E3D all metal hot end and I was wondering which one I'd need (for 1.75mm filament) and what other things id need like brackets, preferably printed and what other stuff it requires. Any links or info ...

Yeah the Orion prints both ABS AND PLA right from the box without any other parts. The layer fan is included

I do add heat when drying and its over 12 hours. It seems to work somewhat but it's still not perfect. I get a lot of warping regardless of what I use on the bed.

bot wrote:Your post inspired my post! haha. By always manned,

Why thank you!

By manned I mean that I'm priming almost 24/7 and I for some reason always find myself in there! Not that I can do much more than clean up little bits of plastic or watch the printer!

http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=6127

That's my workspace! This battle station is always manned!

singh336 wrote:here it is http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:488678

Just about to print this. I'll share results when I get the chance to give it a try!

I'm UK also and got Indicating Silica Gel from Ebay this week. That's intresting. I'll defiantly have a look! Probably still want to dry the spool in a oven on low heat. Use the silica to maintain the dryness. That's the traditional idea but I don't and I can't imagine many other people don't want ...

Nylon sucks Yes currently I would say Nylon sucks. End of! I can't get it to work with warping ect and it's generally been a pain in the a*s. :x Looks like you have a small bag of desiccant in there but seems small for your container volume especially considering it's not 100% sealed. you can't ...