Welcome to the SeeMeCNC Community

I had great success with my MAX v2 for the first several weeks. Now am having nothing but trouble getting prints to finish without the nozzle clogging up. Currently I am using PLA at 190 degrees, everything else is 100% factory settings downloaded from the site. The pla roll I'm using is one that I ...

Thanks for the video link. I'll see if I can' pick up a tiny drill bit like that to clear what I have.

Thank you. It seems to be the nozzle tip, perhaps gummed up with contaminents in the filament? That and the feeder seems to have lost its grip. Don't understand why it happened suddenly with no warning. Ordered 2 more nozzles so hopefully that will get me going again.

I have a Rostock Max v2, all stock, running base settings from website (speed, temps, etc... all stock) I've been successful in printing a number of large prints for clients (sure have had some issues with warping and whatnot) but the hotend always was consistent, smooth, etc... Until yesterday ...

Problem solved. I checked the connection for the thermistor on the main board and it was slightly out from the board (slightly unseated)... I pushed it firmly against the board and it now works. Crazy... thank you for suggesting I double check the cables...

Hi, thank you for the response. I didn't ever disconnect anything from the rambo board except the LED display connects so I could remove the fuses so it shouldn't be in the wrong place (it was working fine before the short). The thermistor is still inside the hot end, engulfed in the sealant and the ...

On the main board, the "Indicator LED's" show green for power and nothering for status in case that helps someone understand what is going on with my printer. So...

Top LED - not lit
Bottom LED - green

I had a perfectly running Rostock Max v2 until I tried to change the nozzle and shorted the wrench to the heating resistor (on the side that does NOT have the thermister). There was an arc/spark and she went dead as in completely dead, no led lights, no lcd screen, nothing (except the power supply ...

Thank you. I located the fuses on the circuit board but they all look fine. Are the microfuses supposed to burn through when bad like regular fuses? Or can be look fine but be bad internally?

What kind of fuses are these, can't find the information anywhere.

No, unfortunately, there is no response from Repetier Host. It allows me to collect but the commands just pool up. It's dead.

Ok, will see if it still prints. On the fuses, where can I get them local? (I'm in Austin so I have a Fry's and probably Radio Shack). Would they have those tiny fuses?

I was trying to remove the print nozzle on the hot end when my wrench shorted out against the resistor. (It was turned on so the heater would free up the filament so I could get it to loosen) Now my Max v2 is dead. The power supply hums but the LCD display is dead. Very distraught as I have a print ...

I'm in the middle of the build and its calling for Kapton tape to cover the solder joints. I want to do this but... I just checked my Kapton tape Amazon order and the delivery is several weeks out! :O So.... what else can I use? I have blue painters tape and I have black electrical tape. Will either ...

Thank you. Question on the motor dampers... wouldn't that decrease precision?

Thank you, that's what I wanted to hear! Question about this item listed as an item needed for construction. It doesn't say how much I will need... 1 ft, 20 ft? Anyone know? "High temperature insulating material for the resistor wires. I recommend PTFE tubing from McMaster-Carr, P/N: 5335K13."

Hi, I'm from Austin, TX. I ordered the max v2 kit and its scheduled for delivery on Wednesday, Aug 27th. As far as career, I've been in computer/video game development for the past 20 years. I'm an artist and game designer and hope to print some nice 3D artwork as well as many other things. Trying ...