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Did it used to get up to 220? Could be that the peek fan is cooling the metal barrel too much and you can wrap the barrel with kapton tape. Is the layer fan blowing on the hotend while it is warming up?

Cheers,

And be sure to install the three hotend bolts upside down as it it makes it way easier to adjust/remove later. Great RTV job!

Agreed on the Kapton wrap. The peek fan cools the hotend too much, and the layer fan cools it even more so wrap that baby up good.

Using a Max V2 and MC 1.1.3, it'll slice with Matterslice but won't print it - it just gets stuck on the heating part. MC appends some start gcode even though you specify your own gcode, but not sure if that is the problem. I exported the gcode and it printed fine in Rep-Host. MC does crash on large ...

Does having three fans do a better job than one fan? I have been pondering the fans re PLA cooling.

This was the trickiest part of the build for me. After many attempts with coat hangers, sticks etc, my solution was to solder the smaller wires to a larger guide wire. Once the wire was threaded through the tower, I just clipped off the soldered end a bit and all was good. Definitely a tight fit. As ...

Those AstroSyn dampers are definitely the best value for an upgrade i've done for a long time. I didn't think it was *that loud, until I installed the dampers. The main source of noise is now the extruder, which is pretty minimal.

Good answers and I think I understand now. In the case of the Max V2, then the main factors would be the hobbed gear diameter. I saw some pics of some that are less hobbed(?) than others, so the diameter would be different. So, how often should we re-do the e-step calibration? Would a change of ...

Excellent vid, McSlappy! Mine calibrated to 90.8.

Question: How can seemingly identical Max V2's have different e-steps?

Cheers,

So i'm working on the Max V2 hotend, power is switch off, and I moved the cheapskates so that they are inverted. I noticed the LCD will flicker blue like power is being briefly applied to the Rambo. This was unexpected. Is it supposed to do this? Could I have wired something wrong? I can imagine ...

Also check your actual filament width with a caliper. My lovely 1.75mm Makerbot True White PLA roll is actually 1.83-2.00 mm, which causes printing issues. If you enter 1.75 mm for your filament size in Slice3r but your filament is actually larger, you will extrude more plastic then intended, and ...

When you turn on the power, what do the LED's on the Rambo board do? Do they stay on? If so, what color are they? Could be a blown fuse on the Rambo (it has 3). The fact the Rambo fan is not running is telling, so also check your connections to the board, including the fan connection.

Cheers,

A couple of possible solutions I have seen posted somewhere on this forum: 1) Make sure your LCD ribbon cables are kept away and definately not touching your stepper wires near the Rambo. This can cause problems during the print. 2) Format the card, or try another card. What happens if you plug it ...

I have run into this connection issue sometimes with Rep-Host and the Arduino dev environment (Avrdue). It was caused by Windows 7 thinking the com/usb driver connects to a mouse, and treats it as such, preventing you from connecting to it with other software. The solution for me was to go into ...

I think I saw some Kapton-ish looking tape at Lee's or Main Electronics last week. The color looked a bit off, so it may be a knockoff. I ordered mine from Amazon a couple of years ago.

I had two mods, one has two fans in the back. I switched from an ATX power supply to a 12v one, so it needed a good exhaust. For the Rambo, from what I read the main cooling is needed on the back, but I can't confirm that. The stock fan is on the back, but it would be tough to mount one on the front ...

Hi bot,

Loving the V2 so far and it's making some great prints. The fans are 92mm and the mod info is here http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=6472. Not sure if I ran into you in the local 3D604 or hackspace, you look familiar. Let me know how it goes!

Cheers,

So after I had added two 92mm chassis fans, I turned my attention to the Rambo fan. The kit fan was small and noticeably loud, so it had to go. Would a 92mm fan fit on the back of the Rambo? Yes indeed it would fit, barely. I had read that the stepper chips need the most cooling, so I mounted the ...

Hi all, I added two 92mm chassis fans to the right and left sides of the base. The motivation was simple: I accidentally disposed of the wood thumbscrew panels that are supposed to be mounted there, and I needed to replace the panels. That, and I love good cooling. Lesson learned. Again. Never throw ...

Probably 25 hours until the first abs fan shroud print, then many hours after that fine tuning.

Kind of looks like mine did. Should be fine if there isn't any air pockets. When I did the initial hot-end heat-up, one resistor let out a smoky belch, but worked ok. I noticed after some prints that the silicone was coming loose on that resistor, and that there was a clear air pocket in it. This ...

Also might want to check that the zstop connectors are plugged into the MAX sockets, and not the MIN sockets on the Rambo. This is what I did and the end stops didn't seem to work when I did the zstop test with my finger and repetier-host.

It might also be worth trying the bed PID autotune again. Also, you may want to seal the holes on the top plate that cause a bit of a draft under the bed. I sealed mine with plugs, but kapton tape worked just fine.

The curve inherited from the spool can make it snag on things, so I usually just try to straighten out the last 6 inches or so and then clip the filament at an angle.

Best to do the Setting the Z Height section in the manual again, then the Adjusting the End-Stops section. Once you have that done, it should be ready to print. Are you printing directly on the glass, or using the glue stick? PLA, or ABS?

Cheers,