Welcome to the SeeMeCNC Community

Thanks...bought some friendly plastic on eBay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Friendly-Plasti ... 0720943663

about $21 with shipping for 500g. Seems like the best value on eBay.

Awesome post! Love the telephone wire idea. Going to try that for my second build.

Never heard of Shapelock until now... Wish I had known about that a log time ago. Going to buy a bag today. Where do you buy yours from?

Thanks

Looks good! If you have an Ikea close by, you can pick up all the parts to make the hinged door on the cheap.

The first thing I noticed was the thermometer since I have a few also (and was the one that posted the link

Have you thought about building it, use it as a learning tool, and then print the parts you need to make your own rostock? That's the path I'll eventually head down.

I think I am going to make a CNC next. I want to be able to fabricate aluminum parts. This will open up the doors to injection molding and other machines.

Now.. which cnc? ShapeOko looks to be a solid contender and I can use my extra Sanguino board to control it.

A lot of choices... very different paths to take...

I love the speed of the rostock but it will require a few extra dollars

Mendel90 looks solid and I have almost everything I need to make one.

Darn... wish I could build 2 more right now!

no.. im using it with Repetier-Host https://github.com/repetier/Repetier-Host

I was researching upgrading to M8 rods and different timing belts. Seems it wouldn't be too difficult to switch.

Can the rostock do 0.01 layers?

Printrbot LC looks great if I had a CNC to make my own frame.

I was checking out my inventory and it seems that I have enough electronics and hardware to make a second 3d printer (with a minimum investment). I want to have a larger build area next. With all the open source printers, what would be a good printer to make with a minimum 200x200x100 build area ...

I have created new repos of the firmware that we've tested to work on all the diff configurations of machines. Check out https://github.com/johnoly99 You'll find a BUNCH of different firmwares there, and Repetier for RAMPS as well as RAMBo is up, and tested on H-1's (no rostock yet for repetier ...

I stared using KISSlicer and the results are A LOT better than Slic3r. Most noticeably I am not getting any more strings with my prints.

I still use slic3r if I want to print a quick object. KISSlicer gcode takes longer to print (if i change the print speed the objects will have skew).

wow.. thanks for the link! Im in for 2. 12v 41A rail is nice.

now i need to build a cnc and a second 3d printer

Oh crud.... I just saw your thingverse post with the picture of your machine.

Looks like i'll be rebuilding my printer a 4th time

http://makerfaire.com/

I see on the home page that the SeeMeCnc crew will have a booth setup at World Maker Faire 2012. Anyone else planning on going on Saturday?

How easy do the printed parts come off when the bed is hot/cold?

Ok.. well the distances were equal and there was varying resistances.. I did a little more homework and came up with this: [img]https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-R_tbHUSh5ps/UGMoHuyPwtI/AAAAAAAADMk/8c0oDuTGLJc/w327-h333-n-k/image45.png[/img] Because the belt angle changes when the bed is moved, the ...

interesting... I know the rods are parallel.. spent a lot of time measuring/adjusting to get it perfect... I have a luggage bag scale that I can attach to the bed to see how much force needs to be applied when the bed is at y min and y max.

Thanks for that tip

I'm having something weird happening. Let's say I print an object that has a footprint of 20mm x 20mm. If I position it within the first 70mm (about halfway) of the Y-axis, it will print great. However if i position it where y > 70mm, then I get skewing every layer. The skew is about 1-2mm every ...

Are you hearing the plate out will the abs stick cold with aqua net?

tom10122 wrote:y-axis bearing assemblies aren't hitting the sides are they? I had that problem

how did you fix that?

im having a similar issue. I decided to take apart my printer and re-align everything.

I did come across one problem. My aluminum bushings for the front and back bearing were too long. I used a wet grinder and reduced the length to 0.31". I am still reassembling, but hoping that helps.

If you cant vent outside, then an activated carbon air filter should be ok.

Ideally you should try to build an enclosure for your printer with a built in fan and activated carbon air filter. A 12v PC case fan would work great.

I bought this off ebay:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ... OC:US:3160

$5.87 with free shipping! It gives me the same readings as my ramps board. Been pretty happy with it.

Only problem is that it's whole numbers only. No decimal places.

I was having the same issue. I ended up putting my scrap abs test pieces in a glass bell jar and added some acetone to dissolve the abs. Use a paint brush and paint the abs goo onto the bed when it's cold. The abs sticks really well to it when it's heated up. Just have to let it cool down and use a ...

Yea... only problem I ran into was it worked so good that when my extruder was overheating and the PEEK tube started melting, I didn't see the smoke or smell the fumes! I only noticed that a meltdown occurred when I heard the lower extruder head hit the heated bed. And I was sitting at the laptop ...