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Well, if a PanelDue 7i mysteriously showed up on my doorstep the chances would be pretty good.

At some point i will do a 7i setup for a new machine build but that will be a top location mounting to 2060 extrusion.

Was fairly straight forward, i followed the Getting Started Guides . It will definitely pay to spend some time becoming familiar with all of the documentation and where the various subject matters are detailed - have the gcode page on "speed dial". The RepRapFirmware configuration tool is excellent ...

Upgraded to a Duet a couple of weeks ago - what a difference in performance and ability to set up the machine. Highly recommended! Here is another option for mounting the Duet 2 board and a 5" PaneDue in a Max v2.

Well, there certainly are a few parts but they go together fairly smoothly if you don't mind a little fettling. The trucks seem to be holding up well a few months in and the belt tension adjustment has certainly come in handy re motor changes and chasing some stiction in the idler pulleys.

If you have molded carriages and are looking to improve mechanical motion accuracy a little, the Belt Tension Adjust Truck or other eccentric based carriage may be something to consider. The design was inspired by Trick Laser's Trick Truck and including a belt tension feature seemed like a handy ...

A little while ago the display on my 2014 vintage V2 started to exhibit some odd behavior, flashing on and off and beeping multiple times when the SD card was removed and occasionally displaying a solid set of white blocks on one or more lines on power up. Eventually lost display on the bottom two ...

Update 18 August 17 Just about 2 months on and still reveling in the world of Bowden tube free printing. NinjaFlex speeds are up and PETG is virtually hairless. The body of the Nimble indeed seems to do a fine job of seating the PTFE tube in the bottom of the barrel via the through bore Guide ...

Not sure if this would work with the v3 base plate, but here is a (far from elegant but very low cost and simple) hexagon approach requiring no mounting hardware other than elastics for a v2 with molded carriages. Inner wall width of 9 3/8" to 9 7/16" catches the edge of the base plate and gives ~1 ...

After much fussing with slicer settings and seemingly endless print attempts, came to the conclusion that one should no longer live in denial of the flickering lights as the heaters hit their setpoints, ever prolonging bed heating times, loss of hotend temp with the slightest puff from the part fans ...

drivers are in mixed decay mode For those of us who might be neophytes such as myself and are trying to follow this, i found the information in the following links helpful to begin understanding stepper driver microstepping foibles and phenomena. Hackaday How Accurate Is Microstepping Really? and ...

Yes, the golden ratio print is smoother in that there are longer sections in the xy plane without deviation and generally less artifacts in Z. Sorry my lamentable photography is not showing the results very well. The machine is 1.8deg steppers, 20tooth pulleys, "2mm"/step belt and 16ustep (Repetier ...

and a "golden ratio" version of 0.1618mmm G1 Z2.000 X24.820 Y24.820 E0.58277 ("2nd" part of Y+ move) G1 Z2.041 X-24.820 Y24.820 E1.15507 G1 Z2.081 X-24.820 Y-24.820 E1.15507 G1 Z2.122 X24.820 Y-24.820 E1.15507 (X+ move) G1 Z2.142 X24.820 Y-0.225 E0.57230 ("1st" part of Y+ move) G1 Z2.142 F3000.000 ...

Hey Bruceg, I've been investigating this a lot on the other thread, and might have found a way to isolate the stepper noise from the segments. Try printing at 101% of the layer height you are already printing at. So if you print at 0.1mm, try printing with layer height of 0.101. If printing at 0.2 ...

Well, not sure if the segmentation effects are apparent in the mechanical "noise" but here are a few images, the rest here . There certainly are some interesting patterns. The notation in file names is as follows: X+> indicates side printed in positive X direction (from X-tower towards Y-tower), Y ...

I've re-sliced the file... Thank you, printing at the moment. I did need to change (Repetier 0.92.2 2016 12 27) G90 M83 to G28 M83 G90 in order to get down to the bed =;D Suspect the G28 is not required but that is the order of go i have been using in blissful ignorance since getting the printer...

dc42 wrote: Would you like me to re-slice it for a different nozzle size, and if so, which one? Layer height is 0.2mm first layer and 0.1mm after that.

0.3 please, that is what is mounted and i seem to be in a fiddly bits mode at the moment...

Would be happy to, however my available nozzle sizes are 0.3, 0.5 & 0.6, so not sure if that would preclude my machine for your purposes given that your gcode file appears to be for a 0.4mm nozzle.

adarcher wrote:

bruceg wrote: [img]http://forum.seemecnc.com/download/file ... w&id=14232[/img]

This looks nice and colorful! Mind mentioning the models if they are available?

and here they are in all their multihued splendor....

Should you not be able to avail yourself of TrickLaser's System and are bound and determined to print your own, here you go. Used with success in a Rostock Max v2 on both glass and 2mm PEI.

@ adarcher,

i am just finishing up a suite of standoffs for different nozzle sizes/setups. Will try and get them posted on thingiverse in the next couple of days. Hardware wise the system uses 6 of M4x16mm Button Head socket head cap screws

dlbyers wrote:I used the V3 option in the connfiguration.h. Only thing I had to change is the Z-MAX... Initially it was set at 385

Indeed, a number of folks have reported a crash with a v2 if they started out with 385 instead of 350...

Glad it is working for you.

Used a "cheapo" stereomicroscope at around 30x with a 9MP camera on a trinocular port. Between not being organized enough to have built a proper stage for it and still being in kindergarten on the camera software, i was having trouble getting the camera to "look" at the desired region of interest ...

Probably worth taking a look. If the filament hole in your heat break is offset a fair bit as mine was, you should be able to see that just by taking out the nozzle. Examining and removing any debris from the receptacle end is likely the more important part. This will, of course, require ...

Sorry about that, checked on a different computer - photos should be up properly now. Was dragging them up from the attachment list but that only worked for the computer that i made the post from. Learn something new everyday day no matter how small and painful it may be...

Thanks to those who have already identified the problem with the Bowden tube not seating fully in the heat break or pulling back a bit, that was the first place i looked when jamming occurred while printing TPE. Loosely following the excellent treatise by timskloss for withdrawing jammed filament ...