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When using such thick aluminum, did you need to use a 24v power supply for the bed to get it to heat up in a reasonable period of time?

Switching from the MatterHackers filament to Hatchbox has dealt with a lot of the problems I've had. I've printed a bunch of little trinkets for my kids, so I decided to print something nice for my wife tonight, this box from Thingiverse (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:676630). The print's ...

I've been running my bed hotter, 70C at the moment, because I'm using a 1/8" copper plate heat spreader between the heater and the glass. The temp the thermistor measures is higher than the temp at the printing surface, so I adjust to compensate.

So, I finally bit the bullet and got a new roll of filament (Hatchbox PLA), and it sticks just fine to the bed. I've had the ABS in a sealed box with silica gel for a week or so. Once I get my new nozzle (original one's in bad shape from many, many mistakes of mine that have clogged it badly), I'll ...

After spending a huge amount of time futzing around with calibrations, etc., I finally got everything set up as well as I think I can manage. Based on my dial indicator, the geometry's now flat to within 0.02mm across the build surface. The belt tensioners are working great. I re-zeroed the Z axis ...

I just checked, and my belts are all tightened enough so that, when the carriages are at home position, plucking the belts cause them to resonate around 100hz. By ear, I was able to get the three "tuned" to +/- 5hz, so they're pretty close to the same amount of tension. Still no clue if it's right ...

I've tightened the belts twice now, once with the screwdriver lift method and once with the new tensioners. The first time, I lifted the screwdriver until it felt like there was some resistance on it. The result was the were stretched, but not particularly tight. With these tensioners, there's ...

Being frustrated with the "jam a screwdriver in and lift" method of tensioning the belts, I modded my RoMax to use these devices, modeled after some made for the v1 by gabrielk ( http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=1169 ). In mine, I took advantage of the v2's top plate, which eliminated ...

Have you calibrated your hot end against a thermocouple? I don't have a thermocouple, but I checked the temp using a digital meat thermometer that tested within 1°F for water boiling temp at my altitude and with a Harbor Freight infrared thermometer, and both showed similar temps in the 170°C range ...

This isn't a printing question, but I'm curious... what about the 12v 50w bulb increases the voltage on a different rail?

To speed heating, I did the towel-on-build plate method for a bit, then realized that I had a bunch of scrap blue foam insulation panels in the garage. I cut a 12" square chunk, put it in place of the towel, and got just about as good speed-up with the added bonus that the blue panel rests on top of ...

@gchristopher: my very first two prints (PEEK and layer fan shrouds) were essentially successful, and both were printed in ABS. I don't remember what temps I had set back then (January timeframe), but I suspect they were the defaults from the print profiles I loaded in the assembly manual. 180C ...

Man, I wish I knew what I was doing wrong. I got a couple of great prints, and a bunch of tolerable ones, off my first spool (black PLA from MatterHackers), but with the second spool (white ABS Pro from MatterHackers), I'm struggling. The first big problem was bed adhesion. I tried glue stick. I ...

I'm going to put belt tensioners on my RoMax, as I've yet to get the belts aligned right with the lift-with-screwdriver method. Several of the options I've been considering seem as if they'd be easier to work with if the topmost plate wasn't in place. Is the top plate structural, or is it basically ...

Yeah, it's fun to get a tool like this that invites you, as the owner, to think about how to make it better. With mine, (beyond getting it to actually work, that is ;-) ), I'm thinking about a way to modify the effector plate to allow quick-attach tooling to go from squirting plastic/chocolate ...

Gah! I tried clearing the nozzle again last night. Instead of holding the nozzle directly by the vice grips, I held a nail and balanced the blockage on the nail, thinking that perhaps the vice grips were acting as a heat sink. Heated the nozzle until it was glowing. Not only is the nozzle still ...

Somehow, I appear to have gotten the "simple" blow-torch fix wrong. I have a small butane-fueled pencil torch that I used long enough that the vice grips I was holding the nozzle with got too hot to handle (and, yes, I was heating the nozzle, not the grips ;-) ), but not much filament came out, and ...

"...with a couple of extra nozzles", with nozzles being consumables, or as in get a few different sizes?

Yep, it was partially plugged. Now, thanks to my stellar skillz, it's now 100% plugged, mostly with PLA it would appear. So, given the tools/skills at my disposal, I'm going to need a new nozzle. I'd been contemplating an E3Dv6, so this seems like perhaps a good time to make that move, although the ...

After months of tinkering around, I finally got my RoMax dialed in and successfully printed out a large pencil holder (5-6" tall, and perhaps 8" across at its widest point on the base). Due to negligence on my part (forgot to turn infill back down from the 40% I'd set for a structural part), it used ...

I'm about to go through and try to resquare the towers, and this thread's gotten me thinking about whether there's a better way. My current thought is to combine carefully machined holders for some cheap laser diodes, one per tower. These point to a set of three mirrors mounted to the effector plate ...

I'm firmly in the newbie camp, with only a few days of print time under my belt. My printer's in an unfinished room in the basement, so I've been fighting temperature and draft problems on top of newbie learning curve. Despite all that, I've been getting decent prints even though I know the printer ...

My copper sheet arrived today, and in terrible condition. Two of the corners were clearly dinged, one of them so badly that it had both scraped off metal from the surface it had encountered and also been curled so badly that there's a 1cm difference between the corner resting on the table and the ...

OK, let's rephrase: is picking up the printer, either under the base or by grabbing the towers, normally enough to move the towers out of alignment once they've been tightened into place?

I'm going to build an enclosure for my RMv2. I'd originally thought about a basic box with acrylic sides, but in going through calibration issues, I got to wondering if picking up/dragging the printer wouldn't move things around so much that I'd have to resquare the towers every time I pulled the ...