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Its good that I tried this out but is it ever difficult to work with nylon. Its so finicky. It has to be just the perfect conditions for it to work properly. In order to properly test it i will have to put it in an oven for a couple of hours, and build some kind of "dry chamber" to keep it in while ...

OK, Here's the pics. I did a 25mm calibration cube. I am not sure what it's supposed to look like but my printer printed it at about 24.6mm all around the middle to top section. The bottom section is pretty much bang on at 25mm... I don't know why it got smaller as it built up. The height is about ...

Update.... the head prints just fine. The PTFE tube is unaffected. But i have nothing to show just yet. I printed a couple of small parts that are only about 2.5 mm thick, just to test it out. But both prints cracked in half when i applied a little bit of force to them. I dont think im printing at ...

Jeeeeez it takes a long time to get those thermistor lookup tables dialed in properly. Anyways, i changed out the thermistor, changed lookup table to table 8, which contains the more accurate data that matches ATC Semitec 104GT-2 thermistor. The table on reprap wiki isnt as comprehensive as the ...

Well.... it didn't go a well as expected, but not because the hotend couldn't do it... going to the extremes, as often happens, brings out some flaws in the machinery. I didn't want to go to 260C until I had good temperature regulation. From the above pics you can see that my thermistor was reading ...

Update: I did as Jfettig suggested and put the heat sink favoring the peek, but I left about 1 to 2 mm still contacting the aluminum barrel just to help wick some of the heat from the threads of the peek. This time I just left the inside of the barrel clean with no ultra copper. I think this test is ...

Lol teoman... thats the sweetspot i was going for... just to the brink of burning the house down, then back it off a notch or two...lol Jfettig... youre right... ohms law is pretty complicated stuff...lol... jk.. i completely understand what you are saying... im making an assumption that the 40W ...

Jfettig, thanks for the input. I am trying to apply localized cooling to keep as much heat as possible away from the cold end. Its going to have to be more precise i think. Possibly a barrel that fits over the peek and a small surface area contacting the aluminum instead of how ive got all of the ...

Thanks for the replies. Teoman... your idea is probably the answer in this situation lol... needs more energy to sustain the temperature with the huge bleed the heat sink creates. I was hopeful but in this case hope aint gonna cut it. I found the fan control in the code but i didnt want to start ...

Update: Installed all the components. Heres some pics: 20150112_055215.jpg 20150112_055209.jpg I used the ultra copper to create a solid piece of high temp silicone in the airspace between the heat resistor and the nozzle. I formed it so it would contact the inner thread surface of the hotend barrel ...

Thanks for the info... I took the hotend apart just to see what I was up against... doesn't look too bad. I haven't found a pic of the innards so here is a pic for anyone who's looking for the disassembly of the hotend. 1HotEndDisassembled.jpg I didn't have to buy the heatsink as there was one ...

Look up my weekend mods thread. I haz pictures. Thats the spirit Mac!.... i dont know why it didnt come up when i searched before. Youve got some really nice pics there.... do you have some pics of the hotend disassembly? Im trying to decide on getting the e3d v6 or just upgrade what we have as you ...

Hi,
Just wondering if it is possible or if anyone has tried to mod the stock hotend for the rostock max v2 to make it high temp compatible? Like remove the plastic components and add a heat sink to the lower portion? I have never taken it apart so i dont know what it looks like disassembled....

Well... here's a link to the code if you wanna take a look at it.... may have to break out the ol google translate unless youre fluent in Italian... http://www.personalfab.it/downloads/download-info/deltawasp-40x70_1-75mm_firmware2-0-p0/ ima look through it an try to spot the code for the ...

Looks to me like a simple script that could be run on the rambo (or 3rd party-hosting app) that was copying over the gcode as it was written, and then deleting it from the beginning to the end, as the printer successfully ran the gcode. In the event of a power outage, the script would be ended ad ...

Well... I'll make the circuit and test the discharge time for the cap... the voltage divider they show allows for a 5.76V monitoring voltage for the arduino to sense a power failure... have to look into the IO for this on the Rambo arduino, pretty sure just goes to one of the digital 5V pIN... on ...

I can build the power/voltage saving circuit on a breadboard, attach it to the io, and test its functionality... but would need help with the code... Have you done this yet?

I know this idea isnt "brand new" to 3d printing, so has anyone tried to implement this open source idea to the Rostock? Seems like a pretty simple circuit.. but there must be more to it than meets the eye if we dont have an implementation yet... http://3dprint.com/28079/wasp-start-and-stop/