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I'm running a V1 upgraded to a Duet wifi on 12V and the steppers are totally silent. My E3D fan is way more noticable now, and is the only thing on there that makes a sound.

Are you sure nothing is triggering early?
I was getting something similar, and it turned out my cooling fan was catching on the build plate clips at some locations, causing it to trigger before the nozzle had actually contacted.

I'd be surprised if the cause was due to the heat bed movement with temperature. I'm controlling my head bed bang bang style, so it switches on and off at around 5 seconds each, much worse than a badly tuned PID and I dont see those affects at all. My bed however is powered by a seperate supply ...

Could be a bad connection between the power supply and rambo. If there was a bad connection (higher resistance) then the large current draw from the bed would pull the supply down to everything else, (assuming they are on the same supply cable) and this changing voltage could be audible in something ...

Diameter is just the circle of cal points used. I go for a safe 200mm which I think is the default too.

As mentioned try printing 2 of them side by side. Also I use a min layer time of 15 seconds which seems enough to stop melting as long as the head has another part to go to.

The grinding might actually be the steppers missing steps, this can sound like a belt grinding or similar. if it was actually grinding the belt there would be signs of it such as belt dust in the area of the stepper. Missing steps could be due to the wrong motor current.

You need a Z-probe to take the measurements. Something such as a microswitch or FSRs.

This looks awesome thanks!

Ok my Z probe settings from 0.91 configuration.h are as follows: /* Z-Probing */ #define FEATURE_Z_PROBE true #define Z_PROBE_PIN 11 //was 63 #define Z_PROBE_PULLUP true #define Z_PROBE_ON_HIGH true #define Z_PROBE_X_OFFSET 0 #define Z_PROBE_Y_OFFSET 0 // Waits for a signal to start. Valid signals ...

I imagine if the mosfet had failed, it would be heating the whole time the supply is on, is that what's happening? Sounds like its only heating too much when your actually requesting heating?

Just to reassure you, I'm running an early rambo, V1.1 I think from the indiegogo campaign with the older seemecnc repetier firmware (091) and the little adapter FSR board everyone uses. This works great with openDACT.

Maybe Berrybot?

As above, I also use 091, my steps per mm has been calibrated away from the ideal values by OpenDACT so won't be of must use for your particular printer. Also i'm using an older Rambo so stuck with 8th microsteping. This works with Arduino 1.6.5 for me. You should be able to use the same ...

Wow fantastic. Love how well it fits the shape of her foot. Is that heel strong enough?

The firmware will over ride those values if enabled. Perhaps the microstepping settings are wrong? I think those are firmware only. Also whenever I download any of the rostock max firmwares, I have to adjust the steps per mm to suit my smaller metal stepper gears due to it being an early machine ...

yeah if its heated and in the home position, I find mine always oozes a little, there should be no need for the printer to just sit like that though. I tend to do a 10mm extrude in the air before pressing start print which gives me something to grab hold of to remove, and gets things nice a primed ...

Are you going to sit on that? Hard to judge the scale...

Dupont connectors are a good start. You can always use those with standard pitch headers.

Did the code come from Slic3r? There's a bug in the latest version that causes thin walls to bulge like that...

https://github.com/alexrj/Slic3r/issues/2960

After calibrating my printer with opendact, I had to take the EEPROM Z travel figure, and copy it into Repetiers max height. It seems to use this when homing the machine and caused different z heights between SD card and computer hosted.

Check the actual paths in repetier see if they actually are meeting, i suspect its more of a retraction issue and the extrusion is delayed in starting.

What about increasing the jerk parameter? The corners seem a bit blobbed in that picture, as if its slowing down too much and oozing?

The pads top and bottom are connected together, they are not in on the bottom and out on the top. You need to connect to one side only, either the top or the bottom, and one wire from each to one terminal on the rambo.

In theory it should work fine, certainly wont damage them trying.