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Thanks for noticing and taking the time to post. The cast/splint is my wife's brainchild and her business partner is a golfer who wanted a training aid for his own use (that is my wife and her business partner in the video). It got noticed on the practice greens and has blossomed from there. I'm the ...

Certainly not on the same plane as killing a board but I had a 12V fan die pretty quickly on a 24V power supply. It was the cooling fan on an E3D hot end so it caused a few other problems.

You may also try drying your filament. Search and you will find the correct oven temps and times. If you are getting steam in the hot end it could mess with the pressure enough to have the extruder chew a notch in the filament to the point it no longer has anything to grab ahold of in there. I have ...

That is awesome. Love these kinds of stories. Great job!

Too much current, a bad resistor, damage either before or during installation... could be many things. Grab your trusty multimeter and check resistances across both.

Thanks Dan, I also picked up some pc-fahrenheit epoxy. http://www.pcepoxy.com/our-products/putty-epoxies/pc-fahrenheit.php Would this be suitable to keep it in place in the existing hole? That stuff is intended for emergency repairs and running at temperature extremes above 176C will shorten the ...

I think you are going to have a tough time making the existing hole deeper without damaging the threads you have already cut. If it were me, I would drill a new hole in the heater block. Tape off the drill but so you don't go through but get the correct depth. If you're using the spring as a screw ...

Exactly why a fresh set of eyes is helpful sometimes! Glad it is working now.

I just took a look at your other thread on first layer issues. Combined with this one it very well could be overextrusion. Raising your Z height would just help mask an overextrusion issue by giving it someplace to go. Believe Doc Hackney has some tips in one of his sticky posts that include dialing ...

Agreed. The connectors aren't wired correctly. Pretty sure you're supposed to have pins in positions 1 and 2 on the connectors.

Probably not much help but some local hardware stores in my area have drawers full of springs. If the one you have isn't damaged too badly just take it with you and look for a replacement.

The stock v091 appears to have all of the safet recommendations already set so the only change is is the thermistor type. That seemed awefully easy which makes me think I missed something.

Little c-clips work well for that too.

How about a local Fastenal? They're often able to get me otherwise hard to find parts fairly quickly.

Going to pick up another sheet for my build in progress. I don't recall seeing it in this thread so has anyone used it with PC/ABS blends?

Any status KAS? I'm going to put an E3D on my newest one but haven't decided on the mount yet.

A couple of other settings you can play with are the retract and wipe. Both could play into the blobs and strings. Funny Nylocke, I always associate stringing with higher temps... Maybe I need to play, I mean test, conduct serious scientific tests (it's my story and I'll tell it like I want to ...

Seems to be working as advertised so far. I used 2", not sure if it was cut poorly or got compressed in shipment.

That 468 tape may be the gooiest crap I've worked with in a long time. My roll was sticking along one edge so I ended up with a clump and didn't see it until I put the tape on the glass. It is NOT fun to remove. Second try I was more careful and it came out looking decent. Trimmed with a coping saw ...

Nice job, looking really good.

Did you check for continuity across the cooling fan wires that are soldered to the board to make sure those aren't shorted?

Is there a reason not to run it directly to the power connector and just let it run when the printer is on? That way you don't have to remember to turn the layer fan on.

Bad RAMBo or firmware are the first thoughts that come to mind but I'm not great on that end. In the interim you could run the fan directly to another 12V source so that it would run whenever the power supply is on. I would probably start by reflashing the firmware and seeing if that helps.

Good to hear!

Wow, that aint good... I've found irregularities in filament but never any like that in that quantity. Our source is good about replacing bad spools (infrequent as they are) and I would think Seemecnc will help you out.