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More good suggestions. I'll check the gear. It could very well be full of junk.

Darren

Good point. I'll try the rotation idea and see what happens. For the next few days, I'm busy designing and building brackets to fly my extruder, though.

Darren

Try moving the printer temporarily in to a cupboard. By thermal stress i mean onse side of the print cooling faster than the other which causes stress on the part and the layers let go forming a crack. From the pictures I can see how it may look that way, but I promise there is a line missing. On ...

Could be. I'm thinking it could also be the extruder/bowden tube. I'm currently working on a suspended extruder design. We'll see if it works out.

Darren

Here's an update: I set my hotend to 235C. I only has one area where it did not extrude, as you can see in the picture below: 20150211_081749.jpg I'm still getting lots of blobbing. I think this has to do with my z-lift settings being too aggressive. I'll tone those down and see what happens. It ...

I was thinking along the same lines, that it might be a little cold. I'm going to try it hotter tonight. It's an 8 hour print at these settings...

Darren

My Rostock Max V2 is having an issue. It seems like sometimes it skips a layer. This causes some structures to fall apart. See pics below: (I'm sorry that the images are rotated. They're not rotated on my computer, and I don't know how to fix them on the forum. :? ) 20150209_192540.jpg 20150209 ...

Along these same lines, how often do you check your zeros? Do you do it every time you print? I've found I have to do that because it seems to always be just a tiny bit off.

Darren

I might not be understanding what you're saying. I didn't pull the second side over the end of the axle, I just snapped the axle into it.

Darren

A trick I use when setting up my printers and milling machine. Space it down so "zero" is just touching a known spacer, I happen to use a blank lathe tool as they're pretty precise and I have them. Now move the head to another location and try sliding the tool under. Adjust up/down as needed but ...

When I built mine, I slipped the retaining clip over the axle, such that the axle was going through the holes on one side of the on the retaining clip and in its final position. Then all I had to do was push the other side over the axle to lock it in place. I found this technique worked best for me ...

That's nice work. Just to clarify: you're printing in ABS, and you're using the layer fan?

Thanks,
Darren

I would definitely upgrade the PSU. It was a simple swap once I figured out which wires were positive and which were negative. Plus, I didn't do any damage to the power supply's hardwired cables. The hole in the bottom of the Rostock Max V2 makes it very easy.

Darren

I figured it out. The problem was that the cables supplied with the psu are all black - no color coding. I found a diagram on the Internet of how the cables are wired and then tested them with my multimeter. I've now put it back into my Rostock. The voltage at the RAMBo is now 12V instead of 11.2V ...

All, I bought a Rostock Max V2 about 2 weeks ago. Got it together in a couple of days. I love this machine! I'm really enjoying learning the ins and outs of 3D printing. So a few days after I got it together, I downloaded an STL that was about a 7 hour print. I went out to dinner, and when I got ...

I figured the nozzle is a little too big for this type of work. It's nice to know that a smaller nozzle will tighten it up a bit. It would probably work for larger diameter screws.

I didn't get the machine to do this; I'm just interested to know its limitations.

Darren

All, I made a 1/4-20 bolt in solidworks just to see what would happen if I tried to print one out. The first one was terrible. I was using a ton of infill, and the threads were just a blob. The second one, with the infill set to 0.2 was much better in terms of the screw helix not being a big blob of ...

So that would actually be 2 parts in my modeling program? The inner sleeve and the outer flange, separated by .0001"? On a semi-related note, what is the smallest screw thread you've been able to print out? I created a 1/4-20 bolt in solidworks and tried to print it out just for kicks, and it did ...

I printed a clamp the other day. It has a hole that I tapped for a screw thread (1/4-20, but that doesn't really matter). I noticed as it was printing that the hole in the part was printed with just a layer or two of ABS around it, and then it went to the crosshatch filler pattern. Is there a way to ...

I decided to stop obsessing about it and put the glass on and print. I haven't rechecked, but the calibration went fine so I guess it's a non-issue. Printing very well. Now for the noobie learning curve...

Darren

Last night I noticed as I was plumbing my support columns that my Orion heater bed has a crown to it. It is cup shaped such that the center is about 2-3mm higher than all of the edges. Is this normal, or is it going to be an issue?

Thanks,
Darren

Yes, I'm talking about the thermistor wire being directly connected. I didn't think it would be an issue, but I wanted to make sure I'm not missing something...

Darren

I received my Rostock Max V2 the other day and have been putting it together. I had some problems soldering the Onyx heater bed. One of the metal soldering pads came off. See picture below: 20150120_210407.jpg Is this a problem, or will it work normally? BTW the kapton tape will be coming tomorrow ...