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Tempered glass should be ok thermally but you can't cut it. As soon as the surface is broken by cutting or chipping it, the whole piece will "explode" into small pieces. It's manufactured under high stress for safety. Any break will release all the stress catastrophically reducing it to small bits ...

I have been fighting this kind of thing since I got the printer built in December. I have resolved myself to the fact that at least in my case it's the stock arms and hotend. I tried several times to get the stock arms loose enough but it's just too time consuming and I never got them right. I just ...

I've fiddled with the stock arms many times and still can't get them to behave properly so I'm hoping this finally gets my machine up to world class printing. I have some big jobs for it coming up. I can't wait a couple of weeks for them so I took the safe route and ordered two sets so I can destroy ...

I don't have the LCD and SD card yet unfortunately. I just had another print stop after about 2 hours. This time there were no errors but it froze the same way it did before. Repetier Host was still hapily running but no communication activity. I pressed the reset button on the Rambo and then ...

I saw a lot of good feedback about the Repetier firmware so I decided to give it a try. Overall I love it, it's much smoother. The problem is that since I made the switch, during my prints I'm getting quite a few errors like this... 12:35:02.193 : Printing layer 1 of 25 12:35:17.345 : Unknown ...

I use ZBrush and Rhino to clean up bad geometry automatically but I've also heard that MeshLab (http://meshlab.sourceforge.net/) is a good free solution that can fix lots of geometry problems.

This sounds like it could be the same as a problem I was having although my variance was only about 2mm from the center to the edge. If you are seeing 8mm difference you may have a more serious mechanical issue but check out this post...
http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=1024

Perfect, thanks! They had 90 meters in stock. I ordered enough for two complete sets. Hopefully I can get this thing to stop eating them, but I'll be set just in case. My gears do seem to be razor sharp. I'm going to try gently filing the edges of the teeth to dull them a little.

Does anyone have a source for the GT2 belts by the inch? SeeMeCNC.com is out of stock, I think I bought the last they had but it was only enough to replace 2 of my 3 belts, all of which are chewed. The only other online sources I've found only have fixed length belts like 40in which is not enough ...

That was perfect, thanks! Kisslicer results are amazing, I finally got a good calibration cube using it. I'm going to try to print a Yoda tomorrow. The one I did with Slic3r looked like something from a horror movie. I may still need to tweak the de-string settings but I'm only getting extremely ...

I had quite a bit of trouble with this and ended up getting a piece of 3/8" glass (1/4" should work as well) and putting it over the heater pcb. I held this down with some custom acrylic clips and then put blue painter's tape on the glass to print on. After each print I peel up the tape with the ...

I have the current beta, I like being on the bleeding edge

I know some of you guys are using Kisslicer and the example prints I've seen online look amazing. My current problem with Slic3r is terrible blobs and strings everywhere which it sounds like Kisslicer may almost eliminate. I downloaded and installed it but haven't tried a print yet because I'm ...

That's very intersting, I just turned my digipots down to 130 which may be too low, I'll have to play with it. Since my belts are chewed anyway, I will try stalling the carriage and seeing if the motors will skip without chewing the belt. I'm used to mid size CNC routers which will lose steps before ...

This appears to have gotten me really close, the measurement errors I have remaining now are due to damaged belts I think. I set the DELTA_RADIUS to the following... (DELTA_SMOOTH_ROD_OFFSET-DELTA_EFFECTOR_OFFSET-DELTA_CARRIAGE_OFFSET+0.9) So my additional 0.9 seems to get me extremely close to flat ...

I'm still not confident I know the exact cause but one clue appears to be that the damaged area is near the motor pulley around the time when the nozzle would be at the bed. While I was tuning the machine I had other issues that were causing the nozzle to hit the bed. Maybe during those times the ...

Tony, Wow, that's what I call a thorough and informative reply! You may have just saved my sanity. I will play with that variable this morning. It makes perfect sense and my measurements are very close to yours, just inverted I think. I'll post my results here after the change. Thanks again! Patrick

I hate to keep dumping weird problems on here but this one is stumping me. I have been having constant problems with getting the heated bed level and keeping it level. I added 3/8 glass on top and verified that it is absolutely flat to less than 0.001". I made some acrylic clips to hold the glass ...

I'm still trying to figure out exactly how it happened but two of my 3 Rostock Max belts have an area on them that has been stripped. After assembly, I was having what appeared to be belt lash issues so I tightened the belts to felt to me should have been tight enough. I continued to have the ...

I also just had a run-in with jumpy motors. It happened once out of nowhere and I though it was a fluke. But then I opened the door with the Rambo board on it during a print and the z motor went nuts. It turns out it was a loose wire. I had only crimped the wires into the pins. I took them all out ...

Thanks for that info. I'm now dialing in the combination of temperature and flow rate and have gotten rid of that effect, although I seem to be at a choice of gaps or too much material. So far the exact right amount is eluding me but I'll keep tweaking, the right numbers have to be in there somewhere.

Has anyone seen a printing problem like this? I'm using a brim and the bottom layers are holding just fine but as the build gets taller, the edges get higher faster than the inside parts of the print. Because of this the nozzle strikes parts as it goes over and it's a general mess. I've tried ...

I've tried a big range of retract settings, from 1mm @ 20 mm/s up to 10mm @100mm/s and just about every combination in between with not much difference. I'm actually getting better results with no retract and fast non-printing moves since it races to the next spot and leaves thinner strings. It ...

Ah, that explains it, thanks Gene! I thought I was going nuts there for awhile. I dropped my extruder temp to 240 and it's extruding nicely now. I've printed a few of the calibration cubes with each one getting better. I'm dialing in the retract settings. I would love to see a video, especially a ...

Update, I soaked the tip in acetone overnight and was able to get it clean this morning. I found a 0.5mm wire and pushed it through the hole so I do have the correct size tip. I'm about to try extruding again but I can't figure out what else would cause the material to pile up and melt in the teflon ...