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Hey guys, I was inspired by the ABC tower rotation thread, and have spent the day painstakingly tweaking my rostock max. I whipped out my dial indicator and adjusted, checking 6 test points along a 110mm circle as well as the centre of the bed, aiming to get them all to have the same z level. I ...

I'm not sure about the newer Rambo boards, but my Rambo v1.0 has two extruder fan outputs next to the extruder heat outputs. They are labelled EXT0 FAN and EXT1 FAN. These are pwm outputs that can control the PLA cooling fans with variable speed, and should be able to be controlled by gcode based on ...

#1. Have you changed your firmware since you bought the rostock? It could be the default steps_per_mm for extruder is wrong somehow, I know I have an old rostock which only has 1/8 microstepping so i had to reduce my steps per mm by a half. You may have the opposite problem. #2. The nozzle will ...

I only just discovered your store from another thread, McSlappy =).

I had this problem earlier this year after shorting out my hotend. It was one of the microfuses. In Australia I could only get them online in packs of 10, so I have enough in case I make quite a few more mistakes

I was dipping into the firmware and found dead-time control as well yesterday, but I wasn't sure if it would improve on the PID control. I might give it a go tonight. I've got my retraction at around 3.2mm, at quite a slow rate as I heard this helped. My Z-Lift is a bit high, but i think I can lower ...

Ah I didn't see this post mhackney. I had a look at the pulleys, and didn't see any obvious slipping but i'm not entirely sure how i'd tell if it was slipping a couple notches out of a hundred. I have since had to replace the belts on my Y and Z axis due to a bed crash, and I've tightened them up ...

Just a quick question for those of you who've bored out your nozzles: I hear a lot of the time people say you have the right temperature when you can push filament through by hand without too much force. Is there any way to quantify too much force? It's definitely not effortless for me to push PLA ...

Great. Yes, use 1500 grit sandpaper and lightly sand he entire surface. It will raise a bit of dust but leave a nice matte surface. I wouldn't risk sandblasting, too abrasive. Soda blasting maybe but try the 1500 grit first. The material is dense and the grit is very fine, you really can't sand it ...

I'm kicking myself for not saving my offcuts for testing sanding!

Amazon was out of 0.03" PEI so I opted for 0.06". Adhered with the adhesive tape and initial tests seem positive! My first couple of prints stuck like magic! My sheet came with both sides glossy though, and i much prefer the natural matte finish. Does anyone have any guess how I could put a matte ...

I have been printing exclusively in PLA and have needed a decent layer fan solution. I was previously using this: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:170317 , but noticed that my prints would be nice on one side but ugly on the other. I attributed this to poor cooling performance. I noticed a while ...

mhackney, You mentioned that there were issues with PLA with the v4 E3Ds. I believe my E3D is a v4 and i've always had issues with stringing and PLA since it tends to jam when i crank up the retraction. Do you (or anybody else reading) know what changed between v4 and v5? Is there a lip / geometry ...

I am now running slower travels and the problem seems to have disappeared. I suppose the motor skips steps when it can't reach the desired rate and causes the behaviour seen. Most of the time it doesn't happen since the travel distance is not linear enough to get to the maximum travel speed (usually ...

Good idea, I've got no cooling on the Rambo at all.

Would it contribute to missed steps even if the drivers haven't had any time to heat up? I still have the problem if i turn the machine on cold and run the print sequence.

Okay! Progress! I had a look at the steppers and they weren't obviously missing steps, but there is a quick travel from the G28 Position at the start of the print, which got me thinking about the print speed. I have my travels running at 500mm/s, which may be a bit over eager! I tried printing the ...

Thanks for the reply! I didn't even notice it had a horizontal offset in the new firmware! However, it's set to 130.35, exactly the same as DELTA_RADIUS in the firmware; Must have been picked up from the config when I first flashed the new firmware. It also strikes me as strange that it only happens ...

I've had my Rostock Max for about a year now and have finally got around to buying and mounting an Onyx heated bed for larger prints. I've had no problems printing within the build space of the old Phebe printed bed before, but it seems like there is a single spot further out from the centre on the ...

I am indeed using PLA, and my next order of business is finding myself a small fan I can mount on my hot end

I've been having trouble with jams trying to get my first print working successfully (I've had a few cubes complete printing but still tweaking things, my guess is extruder was loose, i've tightened it now). I had a big jam yesterday so attempted to test the heat settings by turning the hot end on ...

I've finally got my Rostock mostly complete and have started the calibration process and have a few questions about the heated bed print plate (polycarbonate plate included with kit). 1. Am I supposed to cover it with Kapton tape before printing anything to protect the surface from fusing to printed ...