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Sorry for the late response, I've been very busy these last few weeks. I would consider upgrading to 0.9-degree motors with AstroSyn dampers first, before changing out the controller, if you want to reduce the waviness. I DON'T have any side-by-side photos of parts printed with 1.8 and 0.9 degree ...

Do you guys mind if I see a few prints that you have been producing with this new board? I am curious to see whether the quality increase is worth the money..

For what reason would someone buy a .6 board compared to the other 2 boards that are more recent? Is it because of cost?

Nah I'd rather stay on the safe side and get a PanelDue then. I don't want to damage a $170 board :lol: What did you do with the rambo that came with your kit? Did you end up selling it? Thats what I think I might do so the cost of the Duet wouldnt be as steep... This is just so i can better ...

What would have to be done is connecting the X5 socket from the Paneldue (new versions only) to the Duet Wifi connector labeled SD Conn. Then the SD card slot on the Paneldue is accessible by the Duet, making everything nice and easy. So I would not be able to use the LCD controller that came with ...

For me, I had gotten used to printing with an SD card considering my printer is in the other side of the house from where I am at so I'm not so fond of moving my computer back and forth everyday, and honestly I don't know how good the wifi function would work for me due to the location of the ...

I would go for a Duet of some stripe myself (I did in fact). This will eliminate the vertical banding, but that's not the worst artifact. I would use a host that does temperature graphing and determine if any of the horizontal bands line up with variations in bed/hotend temperature. I might also ...

Xenocrates, So say if i wanted to get rid of these ripples that I have on all of my prints, would you suggest that I wait for this "Archim" board to replace my Rambo? (or get a Duet Wifi... maybe?) The ripples only appear on certain layer heights, and considering I am going to start selling prints ...

I was looking at 3D Hubs earlier today and i noticed that the in the cons of the Rostock Max v2 it says how the printer "lacks precision." Why is this? I was thinking that maybe it could be because all Rostocks come standard with a .5mm nozzle and I was wondering if that could be it? As in maybe the ...

I know that the automatic bed leveling will definitely be part of an upgrade kid for the Rostock Max v2, according to someone over at seemecnc if that helps any

Since I bought my printer, any time i wanted to print something I would have to take my computer with me to where I have my printer and leave it there for few hours it would be working. I grew tired of doing this mainly because school started and I need my computer for it (I don't want to work while ...

What did you use for the base and the top of the enclosure to keep the panels in place?

A few months ago I bought a new spool of PLA filament (my first spool of PLA actually) and I would use it every once in a while depending on the project. This summer I did an abnormal amount of traveling and due to that I havent been able to print. Considering I know that PLA does not fair well with ...

With 7 solid top layers (try 4) your print does not have enough time to cool before it adds the next layer and collectively the top box of your print stays molten longer causing the issues you see. You could slow your print down(try this first as it will also help the ripple/ghosting in your print ...

The warping at the top can be solved by setting your cooling fan to be on at a very low speed (I use 10%, but this will vary between printers). It's a fallacy to say that cooling should never be used on ABS, I've found that a very weak cooling fan drastically improves print quality. Try printing a ...

Looks like you are possibly seeing your infill pattern show through your outer shells. try 3-4 outer shells on that print again. Your last issue seems to be your print cooling fan is not set at a high enough flow. Are you printing outside in or inside out? I'm printing outside in. If it should be ...

Hey guys, this is my first forum post to bear with me.. My Rostock Max v2 seems to be having a lot of problems when it comes to printing straight lines and squares especially. When I first got it I began to experiment with the the mm/s that i would be able to print at and i noticed that the faster ...

First thing out check the thermister for an open. Then test the resistance ( ohms) across the leads disconnected from the Rambo board, then move and flex the leads to see if that causes an open ( infinite resistance) across the heated bed. If you find something an intermittent open, then where ever ...

I've had my Rostock MAX v2 for about two weeks now and my printer is already having problems with the heated bed. I print using hatchbox ABS with the standard 80 degree Celsius bed and the hotend at 215 degrees Celsuis. The hotend heats up just fine but the bed doesn't heat up at all. I unscrewed ...

make sure your bed is heated up when calibrating. hot end also. are the screws that hold bed down tight, but not extremely tight, if to tight I think the heated bed can warp when it expands/contracts with temperature change if it can not move slightly on screws. also look for loose screws holding ...

By the way, I am using Hatchbox Blue ABS with glue on a heated bed set to 80 degrees. So the prints should adhere pretty easily. Printing at 20mm/s in 215 degrees for the hotend. I'm using Matter Control 1.2

I'm still very new to 3D Printing so i don't have much experience. I have a Rostock Max v2, and I was ale to get my first few prints to print successfully but now my printer isn't staying leveled. What is would do most of the time is that the nozzle would touch the build plate with almost zero(a ...

Hello, this is my first post on the forums and like it says as the topic, Im a new owner of a Rostock Max v2. I just finished building it on the 11th so yeah im still very new at printing. I was successfully able to 3D print the peek fan shroud and the extruder fan shroud (after a lot of hassel due ...