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Yeah, I couldn't find their forum ( :P ) so I just pinged the ticket again. They responded this morning. Sent them pics and a looonng description of what's going on. I may even make a separate post incase someone else runs into similar issues. When MatterControl's support responds, I'll post the ...

I'll send them an email. At this point the topic serves more as a explanation to those who use MatterControl and are wondering why their prints all of a sudden started coming out bad. Recently I took a closer look at the patchnotes, and it looks like they changed something to do with how ...

Can the OP verify that they are able to take it a step further: did you then retry the previous MC to ensure that the part looks identical to the right side? did you save your g-code file from the previous version of MC and then print THAT EXACT g-code file in 1.7? The reason I ask is because the ...

If you had an error in your laser cut parts, why on earth didn't you get a replacement from SeeMeCNC? They're very good about stuff like that. g. I talked to someone who had a similar issue. They told me that they had no luck when contacting SeeMeCNC about it. The issue seems to be that the laser ...

Yeah I've been meaning to switch, I just haven't had the time to do it. Does Repetier Host have 13-point disk levelling? An error in my laser cut parts makes it impossible for all three towers to be perfectly vertical, and I can't print without that option.

The update boasting better tool paths and therefore better prints seems to have done quite the opposite. Here are two identical parts printed at the same settings, except the one on the left was with mattercontrol 1.7. [img]http://i.imgur.com/7bQfeuw.jpg[/img] You can clearly see banding and strange ...

That SSR is rated for 100A, 4x more than what I'll be putting through it. I was thinking about getting something less overkill like this . With shipping included, the relay you suggest comes to about $50. I've got some temperature switches/fuses kicking around. I could stick one of those on the ...

Awesome! I'm ordering now.

The the second p/s you linked will unfortunately cost more than the one I got when you factor in shipping. Also, where can I find shipping cost info for tricklaser? I want to get that heat spreader.

I'll post an update once everything arrives.

I'm just about to purchase everything, but I've got one question: How many amps will I need to run the motors and the hotend? I outfitted the hotend with a 40W heater cartridge but everything else is stock. I need to know this in order to get the appropriate converter. I was looking at this one http ...

Nitewatchman: I've got a couple of SSRs kicking around and I've found a 24V 20A PSU on ebay http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Universal-12-24V-2-3-5-10-15-20-30A-Switching-Power-Supply-Driver-For-LED-Strip-/400766807980?var=&hash=item5d4f902fac:m:mTBqkLN8zp3tptA5EGZpcug for $70 (I live in Canada) Jrjones: I ...

Hi Gary,

I'm definitely interested, the price is reasonable too. My main reason for not looking into 24V is that I was under the impression the Onyx couldn't handle that, but it seems that it will. Would using a MOSFET in place of a SSR cause any problems?

Obviously the components that SeeMeCNC supplied aren't going to work properly, which is a shame. I guess I'll have to replace both the power supply and the Onyx with something better. Even if I got a power supply that gave 12V consistently, my bed's resistance is still a bit high. I'm looking at ...

I looked a bit more into the lackluster performance of my bed. The bed is getting 11.4V from the power supply, and I'm reading 1.2 Ohms for the resistance, meaning I'm getting 9.5A and 108W from the bed. The bed is supposed to have only 1 Ohm and be getting 12V from the power supply which would ...

I've been looking around online for this since I got a 3D printer, but I've never been able to find a metric for it. There should be some kind of minimum Watts/cm^2 you want on a heated bed. I'm wondering if just getting a dedicated 24V 15A supply for the bed will be enough to heat it. I'm not sure ...

This was the one I was looking at: http://www.ebay.ca/sch/i.html?_odkw=meanwell+LED+PSU&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.X360W+24V+psu.TRS0&_nkw=360W+24V+psu&_sacat=0 But I know a local electronics recycling place that sells 700W used PC PSUs for $40-50. How would it get ...

Thanks for the quick response! 1. I was planning to use a MOSFET to connect a more robust PSU that would be dedicated to the Onyx. A heat spreader alone wouldn't help too much in getting the bed temp to get above 95C. I guess I'll get both. 2. My PIDs are all in order. 3. I just checked all the ...

Hello, I've had my Rostock Max v2 since June and I have always had trouble getting large ABS parts to stick. To combat it I've built an enclosure, and got some bed material called PrintBite which works extremely well for getting prints to stick. Even with all those measures in place I noticed that I ...

Rollie,
It's no doubt a problem on my end, thanks for the amazing program and help. I'll post back when I figure out what's going wrong.

Okay, so I've squared the towers against the headed bed (sans the glass) and I had a bit more luck. This time I managed to calibrate all six points to +/- 0.005mm, and like last time, I ran into problems when I replaced the calipers with the hotend. I tried printing some calibration circles and was ...

1. I did a quick check and can confirm my towers are in fact off by 1-2 degrees. The trouble with squaring them is that my bed domes at the centre, but I will try that tomorrow. 2. That was my assumption; it would have been impossible to get my tolerances otherwise. 3. Yes, I do home the printer ...

Hello, I've been trying to calibrate my bed with the manual HTML script over the last few days now and I can't seem to get good results from it. I'm using electronic calipers to measure and after 4-5 iterations I get the 6 points to +/- 0.01mm. The problem occurs when I switch out the calipers for ...

Sounds like a cubePro, a university near here purchased one of those. They struggled to get it running for months before the company's customer support sent them a replacement. It works okay, but they've since gotten a Rostock Max v2 and were similarly blown away by the sheer print quality to price ...

The prior version caused the calipers to crash into my delta's arms, here is the link to the fixed version: http://repables.com/r/614

Huh, interesting. I thought the stock hotend had a 0.4mm nozzle. I think this may be the source of many other problems I've been having... I guess I'm off to buy a smaller nozzle :lol: I've tried overextruding on the top layers, but that caused it's own slew of errors, extrusion width may work ...

***PLEASE NOTE*** The prior version had an issue where the jaws of the caliper may crash into the Rostock's arms. If you've downloaded the file before Sept 7th 1:50pm PST please do not use it. The link below has been updated ********************** Hello, I'm planning to do a massive bout of ...