Welcome to the SeeMeCNC Community

I have the carbon fiber arms from Trick Laser. I junked those plastic things a while ago.

We have a Haas VF5SS, Haas SL40, two Okuma LAW-V24, and a DMC 80 H from DMG.

I did check every end stop, and they all check out OK. After flipping the rods, I'm down to just a high spot between X and Z towers and a low spot between Z and Y towers. Everywhere else checks out perfect. If I take the arms off of the carriages on the towers and rotate the whole effector/arm ...

I flipped every rod, and it's still not acting right. I'm totally lost at this point.

Small update... I found a heim joint popped apart, so I flipped that rod 180°. It's better, but still not right. I guess I'll go back through and flip every rod. I think those straps that are intended to remove lash have just a little too much tension because every heim joint is bent.

HA, this turd is named. It seemed to shift towards negative X and positive Y during the failed print.

Reloaded the firmware... No change.

Hey all. I've been printing with my Rostock MAX without issue for almost a year now. I've got the E3D V6, the nice aluminum mount with carbon stand offs, carbon arms, and a few other basics. I've had perfect bed leveling and have been able to print with a 0.25mm nozzle anywhere on the glass with no ...

Damn. Looks like I need to think about switching to a Duet. Also consider geared stepper motors for your extruder(s) (http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=7011&hilit=ezstruder&start=75#p75760) As I have time, I am planning to: 1. Change my extruder to geared steppers (in the boxs, waiting ...

Damn. Looks like I need to think about switching to a Duet.

teoman wrote:Which vehicle?

I am also diving in to that (hobby project).

It's for making a Motec system compatible in 2006-2013 Corvettes as a complete ECM replacement that will still communicate to the BCM, ABS, and TCM.

So here's a dumb question... Can you still run a printer on a Duet through Repetier? I've been looking into switching to a Duet in the hopes that print quality/accuracy would drastically improve (single extruder). However, I don't have the time to invest into trying to muddle through firmware and ...

The pass through fits cleanly, but the counterbore doesn't seem large enough in diameter.

My Code Monkey is going to update the site shortly with assembly instructions for the mounts. These are the renderings of the mounts and screws. There are 3 flat head screws (cone shaped under the head) with each mount and 3-6 pan head (slightly domed shaped head). You can put it together how you ...

Got mine today. Looks great. Is the middle set of holes not supposed to be tapped?

jason128 wrote:I had the exact issue when i had the retracts set too long- i think the hot material gets pulled back, then squished into the gap discussed above.

This. Beware what kind of retract you use with it.

I wired mine for my E3D V6 straight to the 12V supply so that it's on whenever the machine is on. I was having issues with the hot end jamming if a print failed and the machine was reset by a friend (heat would creep up past the heat break and melt material higher up in the "cold" zone).

Let me know when these are for sale and how much. I have the SeeMeCNC wooden one, and I don't like that it flexes and can't get truly tight and secure. Do you have pictures of the blue colors? I would love a nice deep blue. We are trying to finish up the website tonight. Here is a shot of the ...

If you nuke it, I'll sell you my stocker for super cheap since I have the E3D V6 now. Lol.

I'll play with it more and share what I have. Thanks for the work you've put in! I am hoping to get this thing as precise as possible so I can get the most from my E3D V6 with a 0.25mm nozzle.

I'm not sure either. Before, it would make corrections and slowly home in on final values, but for whatever reason, it decided to swing like crazy after I squared the towers. I'll give this new version a shot tomorrow. I had half a mind to hook my calipers up to each individual carriage and request ...

The only problem with a bed leveler like that is you end up changing the squareness of the bed relative to the towers.

As the title states. If anybody has upgraded, I am interested in buying your old RAMBo.

So I am trying to take the EZStruder apart... (This was not built by me) and the hobbed gear is not aligned properly as I feared. I am having an extremely tough time getting the stepper knob off this thing. It is like stuck on. Any thoughts? Funny... I'm in the same boat. A buddy helped me assemble ...

I had bad shifting problems on my printer just like that before I switched to the Trick Laser carbon fiber arms. Haven't had an issue since. When is the last time you checked all the bearings and joints?

Let me know when these are for sale and how much. I have the SeeMeCNC wooden one, and I don't like that it flexes and can't get truly tight and secure. Do you have pictures of the blue colors? I would love a nice deep blue.

I'll give this a shot later. I re-aligned my towers to as perfect as they can get and re-ran the calibration on 2.0.4, and it began to just swing wildly back and forth with massive corrections. It also kept pushing the rod length out to 272. After it would complete, I began having issues with infill ...