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I was having an issue where sometimes Cura would insert M104 T1 S0 in the wrong place causing all of the heaters to shut down when finishing the second filament. This code should be at the very end of the gcode. I think Cura gets confused when using two extruders with one nozzle when all of the ...

Why wouldn't you use the Capricorn inside the hot end? Are you having to print slower with the Titan because of the weight from the direct drive. Have you seen the Nimble yet. They're out of stock but I want one for my v3. The ir probe is not nearly as accurate as the fsr. Plus they're a pain to use ...

I'm having the same issues with my fans. With mine the fans are higher than the heater block. I'm going to rebuild my hot end next week. I might add some spacers to lower the fans and see what else might be going on.

If it's really stuck on there and you're afraid of it breaking then contact support. It may save you $40.

You could always download the configuration files and the bed configuration file and compare them. I find my calibration results are identical between the FSR probing on the Artemis and my v3 using the Duet board and accelerometer. About .02 sometimes .015.

Let us know what you find out. I'm getting noise from my y axes as well. It's taken a while for me to track it down but it's in the rail. I have play in my carriage towards the bottom 1/4 of the rail. I may also have some bearing issues as well. The rest of it is fine. Mine's been doing this from ...

Thanks, that's a very good explanation. I'm wondering if using 12 awg wire made it worse. I'm very thorough with tightening when installing but didn't think to go back and retighten. Now that I know about ferrules I will certainly use them. I noticed SeeMeCNC doesn't use ferrules on the Artemis and ...

What's going on? I'm using 12awg power wires. Everything was tight and striped properly. None of the other wires were even warm, only the main ground wire to the Duet. The heated bed wires were fine. I've been using it over a week with no issues. I was 2 hours into the print when I smelled something ...

... The Z probe box turns red and shows a value of 1000, I'm guessing that means it's triggered. I am using 1.17e. I still haven't figured out the thermistor wire for sure. I think it goes to the positive lead from reading the SeeMeCnc instructions but it's vague.I'm thinking I should install the ...

... The Z probe box turns red and shows a value of 1000, I'm guessing that means it's triggered. I am using 1.17e. I still haven't figured out the thermistor wire for sure. I think it goes to the positive lead from reading the SeeMeCnc instructions but it's vague.I'm thinking I should install the ...

So all of the printing specs seem the same on both except for the build height. How much print quality difference will there be? I'm leaning towards the Artemis because of the new rails but it seems like a steep price difference. I just had to jump in on this one. How much print quality difference ...

So all of the printing specs seem the same on both except for the build height. How much print quality difference will there be? I'm leaning towards the Artemis because of the new rails but it seems like a steep price difference.

Problem fixed. Turns out it's a Matter Control issue. I imported a gcode from a different slicer and it works perfect. It's been a while since I've used Matter Control and the RAMBO board so I probably just have a setting off.

I'm not sure if this is a HE280 issue or MC. Everything moves and calorbrates perfectly. I even used the calorbration wizard gcode. When I go to print the calorbration cube the HE goes to the bottom at the X tower, moves a bit and stops. After a while a red light starts flashing on the HE. I'm ...

I'm using a Duet 8.5. I've been having the worst time with yours and mHackney's. I've double checked the wiring, looked for shorts, bad connections everything is right except for one thing I just noticed.You have the the thermistor going to the vin on the board and not the E1r(th). Everything on ...

I have no idea what you just wrote but I want it. so what you are saying is that I can use that with the Accel board and a E3D hotend on my MetalMax with a Duet WiFi board. Could you dumb down the post so I can do it? EDIT: Changed to use the Z-probe connections on the Duet and updated code & wire ...

I'm using a Duet 8.5. I've been having the worst time with yours and mHackney's. I've double checked the wiring, looked for shorts, bad connections everything is right except for one thing I just noticed.You have the the thermistor going to the vin on the board and not the E1r(th). Everything on the ...

Have you considered connecting the Teensy to the 4 pin Z probe connector instead of to the E0 endstop connector? You could use the Mod pin on the Z probe connector to do the reset. Selecting probe type 3 in the M558 command will drive that signal low, then select type 5 before you probe to drive it ...

If the extruder motors are rated at 1.5A then I suggest you set the current to about 1.3A to that they run cooler. You can put a command to turn the unused extruder motor off in the tfree#.g tool change file, where # is the tool number. I don't recommend using I0 in the M906 command unless you ...

1. What is the rated current of the stepper motor? Is there a part number label on the motor that would help you to look it up? Try turning the current down to 80% of the rated current. 2. You can use M18 to turn motors off selectively, see http://reprap.org/wiki/Gcodes#M18:_Disable_all_stepper ...

dc42 wrote:I am out of ideas. I think it's time for you to request a replacement board from your supplier.

Just want to follow up. Everyone was great at getting me a new board. Everything works perfect with the new one. Had it hooked up and running in 30 minutes. The IR probe also works great.

I'm trying to figure out why my extruders are over heating with the Duet board. I've been following other's for the motor current of 1500. I'm not sure what the current should be for a stock EZstruder. If I lower the current will I need to adjust other setting to compensate? Also I've been trying to ...

dc42 wrote:I am out of ideas. I think it's time for you to request a replacement board from your supplier.

Thank you for all of your help on this. I'll send another message to Filistruder. I think he copied you on the last one. The Wfi board sounds pretty exciting.

dc42 wrote:So the motor is open circuit then? No wonder it doesn't move.

Oh, the motor, I was testing the pins on the board. The motors have continuity on 1&2, 3&4, the pins on the Duet board does not.

Still nothing. I checked the pins and there's no continuity between the pairs. Please explain. Do you mean that you DO get continuity within each pair (between pins 1&2, and between pins 3&4)? Or no continuity anywhere? No continuity. I checked the other pairs as well and there is no continuity ...