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I went on this quest myself and found that the settings for repetier are in the registry in Windows. Here is the snippet from the repetier site. Host settings The host settings are stored in the windows registry or for linux users, in the $HOME/.mono directory. In Windows press Win+R and enter ...

Poly, I just wanted to update and say that this was the case. Disconnecting the second hotend did the trick. So it looks like the default firmware is like yours and it powers the hotend from the fan pin. I'm trying to catch up on the forums after the hiatus and parsing the new developments so I can ...

Thanks Polygonhell, I have disconnected the second extruder, hotend and thermistor for now until I can get further into this. That would make sense about the peek fan, because I had it on to cool the hotend down after the overshoot. I do have a fan on both the board and the hotends to cool from the ...

I have now gotten my 3rd rambo board because of gremlins. Rambo 1 - Died due to cura slamming head down on parts after job finishes. (Thanks to the "Settings" addition in the file that can't be turned off) Melted leads into part and ruined the hotend. Rambo 2 - Marathon print overheated board and ...

I did blow one after my Cura adventure.

Did I see somewhere that they will repair them if sent in for a fee? I don't see it on the site.

I have a thermistor input out, Hotend eternally stuck on, LCD output fried and then the board locks up if I try to print from USB after about an hour.

It looks roughly the same size. If anything, it should make Tricklasers job easier since it is a single bar setup for him to sell now that appears to snap in place. The question is did they change the carriage mounts too.

Agreed, but it prints so well in comparison. I think I am still going to use it, but make some changes to the code so after the print is done, an emergency reset is triggered to clear out the rambo. The option to add or remove that profile code needs to be in the program. I haven't found a way to ...

Speaking of Cura, I had beed using Slic3r but decided to try it. Immediately better prints but there are problems. I was running 14.01 but tried 14.02 RC05 after a bug was found. (If you set your machine to reprap, then add a makerbot also, all gcode flavors after that are makerbot and added to evey ...

You are on the right track int2str What I have had the best success with is dropping the bridging extrusion rate down to about .60-.70 and testing from there. I also slow the speeds way down (10-15mm) so it can stretch and cool that first layer. However, Slic3r has a hard time with bridges and I ...

I agree about the paused print and resume. Primarily, I am trying to prevent burning my hotend up due to overnight prints where I run out of filament. Supposedly the Makerbot software will let you swap filament mid print to change colors, replace filament, etc. My son likes to make "Rainbow" parts ...

Agreed, but you don't have to heat it on the machine if you are in a hurry. You could put it in an oven to start the processes and get it close to temp and then let the onyx stabilize it. For any of us that have marathon print sessions, it could work out as long as we know the plate will take a ...

I know this is a drastic switch from using Boro or glass, but what about using a 1" plate of granite? It might take a bit to heat up, but small surface plates for measuring tight tolerances might be able to solve several problems. Most are 2-3" but I have seen some micro plates that were 9x12x1 ...

As we all know, the Rostock has a wonderfully large build volume, which can lead to Looonnnngggg prints. So I was wondering what could be done to pause prints when filament jams or runs out. I figure with so many people on here using the system it has probably already been done. I would say a simple ...

The supplier was Seemecnc and ultimately, I thought I got some good prints after I got done adjusting my belts again. Maybe you missed my last posts on this JohnStevenJacob?

They may charge more for the machines, but I know steel is less for me than the melamine HDF sheets. I can find MDF melamine for cabinetry all over, but HDF that the Rostock uses is not anywhere to be found unless I order it in. As for steel, It doesn't split when I tighten it, it doesn't bow when ...

+1000 for the brim. I have been using that on large parts lately and have not had a curl since I have started with it. I will use around a 3mm brim or larger depending on the width and height of the part. Biggest I have printed was a 6"' diameter part and used a 5mm brim
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That and if you do a dumb (falls off the table, too much acceleration to the top part and then a sudden stop) you might be bending your aluminum extrusions from all that weight.... That wouldn't be a problem. I wouldn't use steel arms, just the base and top plate would be steel. I would use the ...

3/16th is probably a good compromise on this also. I just go overkill if I can. That is the metal junkie in me coming out.. lol.. I like to give things at least an extra 1k lbs if I can.. In fact, now that I have the files for the Rostock in cad, I would like to build a rostock out of steel plate ...

Agreed, I have been using the 24v power supply for a while now and it heats up the bed quick. I will be printing in lots of batches anyway and will keep the bed on through several prints.

Thought I would post my easy LED light ring. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:204581 Just used 2 sections from a 300smd 12volt led light strip and then glued it to the inside rim. Used Loctite's Go2 Glue and it has held up great for about 50 hours of printing in close proximity to the hotend. This ...

I wanted to come back and update this post with what I found on my printer. Regarding the .83 firmware that was printing below 0, it was the firmware and it being set to the 20 tooth pulley instead of the 13 that I had which came with the early kits. (I did take Gene's advice and replace them with ...

I just bought some Mic6 1/4" in 14" squares from a guy on ebay and paid $40 for 2 of them shipped. Already got it in and planning on putting it on the printer. There was quite a bit more on there also from other vendors pretty cheap, so I would buy it there and then have it milled out. Anyone with ...

I just bought some Mic6 1/4" in 14" squares from a guy on ebay and paid $40 for 2 of them shipped. Already got it in and planning on putting it on the printer. There was quite a bit more on there also from other vendors pretty cheap, so I would buy it there and then have it milled out. Anyone with a ...

This enclosure is Fan..Freaking..tastic..

Great work!!!

Are there any reasons other than extruders on Delta printers to use a Bowden drive instead of a direct drive?