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One challenge setting up the E3D Cyclops in the Rostock MAX is updating the firmware. E3D and some other references recommended using the Repetier 0.92 online configuration wizard. Despite several searches, never found details to answer the very many questions in the wizard for the RS MAX/Cyclops ...

The two settings that seemed to be essential to keeping the HIPS from undermining ABS layer adhesion were: 1) Very large wipe tower, 30mm on a side, any less and the ABS structure was weak. It should be possible to reduce the large proportion of sacrificial material by printing multiple parts at the ...

Some folks have posted about problems with filament back flow and jamming with the Cyclops. A couple times when I went too far with retraction, beyond even the very high values noted in the post above, one filament or the other would stop feeding through the Cyclops. Each time turning the Cyclops up ...

Gestalt73, you raise the toughest issue with this set up. When using HIPS + ABS in the Cyclops, preventing the HIPS from undermining layer adhesion in the ABS part is a significant challenge. After printing 20+ parts at different settings, I eventually did come up with settings that provided strong ...

Went with a PC Molex connector to connect print head heater and thermistor to printer. This allowed for an easy switch from a single E3D Volcano head, pictured below, to the Cyclops now in use and pictured in previous posts. Keeping in mind that the Cyclops, like any single extruder head, also has ...

Printed the red top-mounted print head mounting plate pictured in the previous post from ABS. Started with an STL for the Cyclops/Chimera that someone was kind enough to post and modified it for my mount setup, would gladly give credit but couldn't find original post a couple months later. STL for ...

Later purchased and installed two Bondtech QR filament drivers and an E3D Cyclops print head. Found that the Bondtech QR filament drivers calibrated to 470 steps per mm and were very reliable moving filament. Did not want to give up Z height installing the Cyclops print head, so mounted it into the ...

Have a particular interest printing in ABS for its resilient physical and heat properties, as well as the various finishing options available. Do a lot with hobby rocketry where the capabilities of ABS are interesting: http://www.bpasa.com/ Started 3D printing with a stock Rostock MAX Nov. 2015 and ...

Completed item #5 noted in the original post. Upgraded to an E3D Cyclops print head, and followed installation advice to connect cooling block fan directly to system 12V power. > This meant the PEEK fan circuit was now available for other uses. > So I set PEEK fan circuit to shut off (when the print ...

Further modded printer / heated enclosure to: 1) Create a plug separation point in the 12 VDC connection between the external ATX power supply and the printer. Used a large 50A rated dryer plug, which was effective but overkill. Did not want to use a standard 120 VAC outlet as the consequences of ...

I built and documented an enclosure here: http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=9706 Pros for this design: 1) capable of achieving fairly high chamber temperatures, as aluminum surface + wood structure is very effective at containing heat. 2) economical, total cost < $150 Cons for this ...

Nice job. What material do you plan on printing? PLA would likely be fine with no heater or ventilation fan. This would keep things more simple and safe. ABS would do better with the chamber heated closer to 60C with a small fan vented with flexible hose directly to the outdoors. You would need to ...

Windshadow, Yes, that is the BondTech standard mount on top of my RS MAX. Had the same thought as you regarding a cake box. Picture shows 14" (max diameter) cake box containing 10" lazy Susan both picked up at Target. They fit together well. Haven't set it up for use yet as the winter air is ...

Received a couple BondTech QR 1.75mm filament drivers with Bowden attachment 2 days ago. Very nicely built devices. The quality of the 3D printing on these gives me something to aspire to achieving. Thanks mhackney for the recommendation and info on these. Confirming an earlier post, this wiring for ...

Looking for ways to build-in fire safety systems around a 3D printer. Considering hanging this over my printer in case things get very ugly: 1) The Watch Dog Automatic Fire Extinguisher http://htgs.pomodotech.com/product.php?productid=838&cat=52&page=1 2) For fire containment, considering partial ...

Thanks Yes, that is the same model Inkbird controller I used Set to shut lamp off at 70C and back on again at 67C. With my enclosure in a chilly basement, chamber temperature hits a natural equilibrium in the 60's C, so the Inkbird is really just there to set a temperature ceiling and display ...

I added a 250W heat lamp to my enclosure and it works very well. Thread:http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?t=9706 Stock heated bed now heats up much more quickly. Just be sure to use a properly rated socket and temperature control/limiter. Have good bed adhesion and flat ABS parts with a bed ...

Those sample prints are beautiful. Would you expect the 2x Bondtech QR + Cyclops to work well for ABS with HIPS support? Recommended extrusion temperatures look very similar for both materials. Is it correct that the stock Arduino in the Rostock MAX v2 is capable of supporting this dual filament ...

Thanks.

The Rostock MAX is an awesome machine.

Installed a 300W rated ceramic lamp fixture with a 250W (120V AC) heat lamp in the upper left side of the enclosure. This is temperature limited by an Inkbird ITC-2000 controller set to shut off at 70C. Most of the time the chamber sits at a natural temperature equilibrium in the upper 60's, once in ...

For the door, used 3 overlapping layers of 1/4" marine plywood. Middle layer was not as wide as front and back layers, creating a pocket to hold the Lexan polycarbonate window. As the Lexan was thin, I used two layers with a thin air gap. This fit well in the 1/4" pocket created by the plywood. Used ...

First screwed in top and bottom sections.
Then screwed on sides and back.
After each step, applied aluminum tape liberally to seal corners and make sure all internal surfaces were heat reflective.

Covered areas with painter's tape as needed to control where the DAP Contact Cement went on. Used this to adhere tinfoil to inner surfaces of chamber during assembly. Elmer's wood glue attached 1"x2" corner rails to a wall. Then screwed wall assemblies together. Designed so each wall, top, bottom ...

Design goals of the enclosure: 1) Enclose build area and not electronics 2) Get hot enough to successfully print large ABS parts without warping, research on this forum suggested this was in the 50-70C range 3) Be relatively cheap and easy to build Materials: Walls and top: 1/4" Sureply, as this is ...

Got the Rostock MAX kit and assembled it last month. Assembly went well overall and was able to print small ABS parts with good results. I have long had an interest in model rocketry, and one of my objectives is to print rockets/rocket parts. Personal rocketry website http://www.bpasa.com Desired ...