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Are there any options to rebuild/replace a badly working hot end on a Rostock Max V2. 0.5 nozzle is no longer available. Looks like the 280 extruder can not be used on the V2.

Last week my Rostock Max V2 skipped the last 10mm of a long print for emergency purposes at my university. Looks like extrusion just stopped at some point. Extruder works fine. Tried a test extrude but only got a trickle of filament. Filament was curling up as if temp too low. Took out nozzle to ...

I don't know slicing error. I sliced the part at various layer heights in Mattercontrol and Repetier Host standing upright and lying on its side. Eventually it will pop up again and maybe I can figure it out.

We'll see how this develops after the cover is back on - even though I can't see how the cover would interfere.
I am glad that it works again but would have really liked to know what caused it.
Until the next one...

I think my V2 is 3 or 4 years old and except for a power upgrade for the heated bed in the form of relayed power directly from the power supply it's stock. Never had a problem. And now.... I took off the transparent plastic cover today and checked if the scroll wheel was tight on the stepper axle ...

I think I forgot to mention that I did try to rotate the part on its side. Freaky things happen and the regularity of the breakup may just be coincidence. My best guess is that the threaded wheel is a tiny bit lose and upon switching from extrusion to retraction and back may just drop enough ...

Attached is the STL file. As I mentioned, I checked the gcode in Mattercontrol preview and can't see anything strange. I wonder if there is some combination of feeding and retraction at a particular spot in the print that leads to the filament to get stuck. I'll also recalibrate and check/update ...

I don't know what is happening with my Rostock Max V2. Very reliable machine. For a large project I have been printing various smaller (1-3 hour) prints. These are fairly simple pieces with 90% infill. My Rostock prints from a Raspi/Octoprint setup, works great - especially since I can see on my ...

G92 E0 did the trick. Thanks!

My Rostock V2 has been happily printing through Octoprint in the last month. There is one little issue that drives me up the wall but while I haven't solved it I found "something". I use Repetier Host firmware on the printer, create the gcode files on Ubuntu version of Repetier Host and upload them ...

I have some news about my warping problem that might be helpful. After adjusting the end stop screws, redoing Z height over and over again and always getting warping in pieces that cover a big surface - always in one or more of the corners I went back to the basics and redid all my temperature ...

That sounds like a smelly idea but worth trying. Will it stick to the piece to be printed (like a raft?)

Thanks

I realize that there is no 100% way. I ended up setting Z height distance about 0.5mm closer to the bed and using a bit more glue stick on the affected corner and that worked fine.
What is ABS slurry?

I am experiencing warping issues when I print large flat surfaces (15x12cm). Printing ABS at standard settings 228C nozzle, 80C bed. Using glue stick as recommended. I have done so many calibration runs I can't count them. Is there a *precise* way to set the endstop height. I have been using the ...

Finished rebuilding my Rostock V2 last week after some parts arrived. I ended up cutting off the molten section of the screw terminal and soldered two 12ga wires directly to the RAMBO. Since I only measured about 9.8V there I used that to control a relay which switches power to the bed on and off ...

Thanks, will do. I'll post back when the machine is back up running.

Thanks. In another thread on the forum I did see a recommendation of a relay. I think I'll go that direction.

(Sorry for spelling relais - that's how we spell it in German)

Ok. So I am in the process of rebuilding my Rostock after the connector melt down. So far I cut off the part of the screw connector with the two melted terminals. I have rewired the heated bed with 14ga wire and also soldered 14ga wire directly to the Rambo board and secured it with kapton tape. I ...

I built this over a year ago and I *think* I followed the instructions - this means the hot bed should be 18ga? But, yes, the hot end wires are thicker. So, replacing the hot bed wires with a heavier gauge (15?) would be a good thing. I measured the resistance on the bed and it is 1.1ohms. Also, the ...

Thanks for the input.

15A fuse is fine

Looking at the trouble spot it looks to me as if the red and black wires which feed the bed heat are getting pretty hot during operation and over time weakened the insulation enough that the wires got exposed and shortened out.

After successfully installing & starting to use octoprint on my V2 (and printing a good number of stuff) today in mid-print I see the heated bed temp dropping. This was midway through a 4.5 hour job. At that time everything else was working fine except heated bed (although I didn't check in my haste ...

Thanks for the input.
There is something off in my source 3D file which I exported as STL from Cinema 4D. I guess I didn't think of that at first because the same file worked fine in ReplicatorG.

Hi Running into a strange little problem. Software, I am sure. Mattercontrol. I successfully printed the fan shrouds for the Rostock. Did some more finer adjustments.I think the Max runs well now. Then I tried to print from an STL file that worked great on my Cupcake. Really simple and fast object ...

Thanks for the tips. Got Arduino 1.6.1 running now. Research did reveal that there is a problem with twi.c in 1.6.7 Tried Repeater Host on my old laptop. Sadly OSX 10.4 is just too old for it. Successfully printed the fan shroud last night from MatterControl (running from the MacMini). Happy that ...

I can't believe after a smooth build I am having issues with software on a Rostock V2. I had prepared my oldish G4 iBook to use with the new 3d printer. It was running Lubuntu lean and fast. But it just turned out that installing Arduino software was a bit more complicated than expected. No problem ...