Welcome to the SeeMeCNC Community

First I was having problems with an excessive amount of stringing. tried adjusting the extrusion in Cura but no luck so I eventually tried to re flash the software to the printer and re install Cura. Start with a clean slate. Since the re flash, the excessive stringing persists but to go with it ...

geneb wrote: ↑Mon May 06, 2019 8:23 am Good point - if you check the fuses in-circuit, you can get a false "good" indication.

g.

Yep. Learned something new today. Testing the fuse in the board made it look fine. Could a short in the layer fan have blown the fuse?

You did remove the fuses from the board when you checked them? Nope. This was the problem. the top tiny fuse mounted directly left of the power input to the board was blown but read fine when tested in the board. Thanks for the tip. Now I have to figure out why it blew. Could a short in one of the ...

geneb wrote: ↑Sun May 05, 2019 6:53 pm I would carefully check the power input terminal block and make sure it's tight and not discolored. Were you printing via SD card or USB?

g.

Double checked it. 12v across all the screw heads. Also printing via sd

Printer: Rostock Max V2 with He280 I'm think I have a diagnosis for this one but I'm hoping I'm wrong So I was a few hours into printing a long t-glass print teps set to 240 and 75 when the printer stopped and screen turned off. The only thing that's was still running was the psu fan. I pulled it ...

A thermistor is a resistor that changes resistance with temperature. Testing it's condition by measuring voltage going through it is like measuring the diameter of a car tire by checking the internal pressure. ;) Don't test the thermistor with the RAMBo powered up, or with the thermistor connected ...

A thermistor is a resistor that changes resistance with temperature. Testing it's condition by measuring voltage going through it is like measuring the diameter of a car tire by checking the internal pressure. ;) Don't test the thermistor with the RAMBo powered up, or with the thermistor connected ...

There's a wiring issue or the thermistor is bad. You can check the thermistor by measuring its connection point on the PCB with a multimeter. It should read around 100k-ish at room temperature. g. So I measured everything. Across the thermistor wires going to the accelerometer pcb, it read about 14 ...

There's a wiring issue with the thermistor. Check to make sure that the whip connector is fully seated in the HE280 PCB and that all the pins are fully seated in that connector as well as the connectors on the other end. g. Double checked the wires again and even ran new wires from the pcb to the ...

So I just installed a HE280 on my v2 and installed the firmware. However, whenever I switch on the printer, the screen briefly shows something around -2 deg on the hot end then goes to def. Double checked the wiring, and soldering on the accelerometer pcb and it all looks good. Anybody know why the ...

Mine died as well, I would dump it and go with a new one. In all fairness to SeeMeCNC, while it's PSU died early, so did the one on my FLSun, as well as its pricey Letour 40A replacement. I use a ham radio 13.8 volt power supply on my V2, and I couldn't be happier with it. But if I were to buy a ...

I have the 29A PSU for my Rostock Max V2 and a couple of days ago my printer mysteriously shut down in the middle of a print. Flicked the power a few times and it eventually came back on. I got the hot end and bed back up to temp and as soon as I started the print again, the power dropped again and ...

Well, the amazon reiews for this brand of PLA suck. I'm not sure if this makes a difference or not, but I've had some brands that work better than others. Have you ever tried a different brand or spool? I'm sure the filament great by any standard but it was the only white PLA i had laying around ...

thechewiestbacca wrote:Just curious, what brand of filament are you using?

The stuff shown is some white PLA that i had laying around from a brand called Argos on amazon. It is the only spool of white PLA i had.

The heat sink/break should not be in the filament path when calibrating the extruder drive (unless you remove the nozzle, which would be more trouble and have a less accurate result than removing one end of the Bowden tube). Extrusion is controlled at the drive, and a longer extrudate will always ...

Looks like underextrusion to me try to lower all your speeds to 40mm/s and increment you temperature for 5°C. Once you get the correct amount extrusion speed thing a little up. Also if you are using H280 check the bowden tube inside the extruder! If the hose isn't well put until the bottom of the ...

Do you hear "clicking" or "popping" coming from the extruder when you print? Also, try telling MatterControl to extrude 100mm of filament. Measure the strand that is produced. If it is less than 100mm, then you might have a clog, in the heat sink/break. Or, something might be screwy with your ...

Check your extrusion multiplier, and your filament diameter. You put 1.75 mm that's correct ? Have you measured ? If it's less and if you let the extrusion multiplier to 1 you can have underextrusion filament diameter is correct within + or - .01 mm. I obtained the number from averaging ...

Hi, It can be quite a lot of things... I dont know what plastic your extrude and the temp of printing. Maybe you should check the step of your motor's extruder, and the temp at the hotend with a thermocouple. The hot end and temps appear to be correct when i check them with my IR thermometer also ...

thechewiestbacca wrote:Regarding the photo, is that print finished?

The middle section is in the photo. Ill add more examples when i get out of class today.

Recently I installed a HE280 hot end on my Rostock max V2 and have yet to get a good quality print out of it. It consistently seems to mess up on the top layers regardless the settings i use in Mattercontrol. Here's a link to a picture of a recent print: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/6gtuk5awz274ml3 ...

Is your part fan on? It needs to be off (or at a minimal speed) for ABS. Also check that your hotend fan isn't blowing air downwards. I had that issue on my printer, and ended up making a shroud for the hotend fan so that the intake end wasn't flinging air downwards and spoiling one end of the ABS ...

Ordered several more fuses in case I blow another one. Will update this post when they arrive. Thanks for your help

Would a short somewhere on the PCB of the HE280 cause this? All the soldering i did on it looked good but i am not the worlds greatest with a soldering iron. I'm trying to find the problem before i blow another fuse. Also would there be any issue with using a little hotter fuse there such as a 120 C ...

geneb wrote:I bet you blew the thermal fuse and will need to replace it.

g.

Scratch what I wrote earlier

You are right the Thermal Safety Fuse on the hot end is busted. I assume it happened when the hot end randomly heated up when I first powered on the machine. I guess the question now is why that happened.