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The reason I want them is to protect my extrusion fan manifold on my modified QUBD extruder. http://www.kronosrobotics.com/3d/QUBDmod/exfan.shtml The fan works very well, but I want to protect the small manifold opening with a small sleeve. If I cant find one I will break down ans us the ceramic ...

No the stuff I am looking for is an actual sleave. My PrintrBot extruder has one, my Solidoodle 2 has one. Something like this: http://www.davlyn.com/products/product.php?id=11 They are silicon on the outside and some sort of heat resitant fibor on the inside. May be fiberglass. I just recieved a ...

Does anyone know what those inulated sleaves that are on some hotends are called and where I can get some.

What you say may be true , but I spent hundreds of hours trying to get my rostock to put out a quality print. Nothing I could do could generate even an acceptable print. I got little help other than, try this, and try that. Later I found that some of the nozzles may not truly be .5 and could be as ...

It all depends on what you want to get out of it. If you want a printer that is consitant, maintenance free and just plane makes good prints. The stay far away from the Rostock Max or any Delta printer for that matter. On the other hand you want to tinker, have tons of time on your hands or want to ...

Eaglezsoar wrote:msimpson wrote:

"This printer is now on par with some of my other printers. I have a complete Rostock Max writeup in my website."

Could you give me the link to your website?

The website is on my signature

http://www.kronosrobotics.com/xcart/home.php

The Rostock adapter I created is kind of a work in progress. It consists of 14 laser cut parts with some of the holes cut out by hand. It take 24 machine screws and a handfull of nylon spacers. Without me writing down a bunch of instructions I dont think it will do you much good at this time. At ...

Im into a Nema 17 stepper motor mount print. The ends would break loose about half way through the print. So fat the ABS is holding firm. The bed height was a littl off due to the higher temperature. So far I am really liking the modified extruder. I will make some mods to for a small fan for ...

Im running 100c easy now with the external 15v power source. Not sure I need a full 30amp power supply for this. I would like to purchase a smaller one to fit into the LCD compartment. If I get an adjustable 24v supplay what current should I be looking for? Also this tells me that the Onyx is not ...

Just too many variables with the Steves-Extruder/Bowden/hot-end. All I know is that when I start the extruder it taks several seconds to extrude plastic. Same for stopping. This is not true of any other extruder I have used and the direct drive extruders give the best results. I have a 30Amp 12v ...

So, what is the final verdict on how to fix the heating issues on the heated bed. My bed will not get any hotter than 75c no matter how long you wait. Im thinking that I need to add a secondary power source that will allow me to add a second power supply that can be tweaked above 12V to get more ...

Unable to get my Rostock Max to print properly due to retraction problems I replaced the Steves-Extruder with a modified QUBD extruder. This is a direct drive extruder that with the proper modifications is a very reliable extruder. Here are some vidios of the new extruder in action. [youtube]http ...

It is all in one. However some people only use the hotend. The hotend is nothing more than a block of aluminum, a nozzle and a stainless steel hollow screw. The other end of the stainless steel screw normally attaches to a larger aluminum block that allows for cooling. The front fan cools this block.

No thats my mount. It was cut out on my laser. It was ment to be temparary as this was only a proof of concept. Im not too worried about the height as I still have over 9" of height. I had to extend the extruder with long machine screws because the tensioner is in the way. I need to reposition the ...

Ok, been playing with the new extruder and the settings. If I run things at 30mm/s and use a acceleration setting of 1200 on all axis I can get a very nice print. Here is a video showing various angles of the extruder making a potato chip bag clip. Quality was not important here so I was doing ...

Well, unless there are some kind of delta accel settings its a lost cause. The acceleration settings are for the motors them selves not the delta x,y movements. This translates into inconsistant acceleration control as the Rostock changes directions. Its a shame as I can see the benifits during some ...

Got the QUBD extruder fully modified and mounted. Its using a hobbed driver gear (MK7) I got off ebay. Got it in 2 days. Using the upper larger spring/bearing tensioner. I did have to put a small .06 thick piece of acrylic over the stepper to rais the extruder and tensioner so the holes lined up ...

The QUBD extruder is a horrible extruder (as it ships) all the extruders based on that design (MK7) are. However, with a true hobbed drive gear, and spring/bearing tensioner it's a great extruder. The Solidoodle 2/3 extruder is a takeoff of this design as well. Hobbed drive gear and a dual spring ...

I built my unit as a kit. It is assembled rock solid and can print without retraction perfectly. I can do calibration cylinders and print the strechlet bracelet perfectly. Its when retraction comes into play that its a big fail. On all the other printers in my article series I have been able to tune ...

OK, while waiting for my new drive gear for my QUBD, I went through the YouTube vid on loading the Repetier firmware into the Rostock. I loaded it and made the changes indicated in the video. First off I have to say that you need to also give the settings for the eeprom as the settings there took me ...

I got the modified QUBD extruder mounted on the rostock max. I had to mount it under the delta platform as there is not enough room on the top. I was able to print a calibration cylinder in PLA but need to order a MK7 frive gear as the brass gear that comes with the qubd extruder jams too easy. I ...

I have given up on the Extruder and bowden tube that came with the Rostock Max. I started working on mounting one of my QUBD extruders. It will have to be mounted under the platform as thier is not enough room on top.

Ok, it is obvious that the Marlin firmware has issues with printing on the RostockMAX. I have yet to see a decient print requiring retraction comeing from a machine with Marlin. That said, I decided to try the Repetier Firmware. Where to start? The latest 82.2 will not compile if you set it to rambo ...

I moved to Kisslicer as others have reported better prints. I can report that the prints using Kisslicer are better. The reason for this is that it has better pathing than the slic3r software. There are still retraction issues on complicated parts. The problem is in the extruder. Too many moving ...

I have four 3D printers. The printers with the direct drive work better and more consitantly. Only the Rostock Max uses a Bowden cable and I get the worst performance out of it. Just too many moving parts and too much to go wrong.