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Whilst attempting to solder in replacement wires for my solder bed, somehow I've managed to remove the solder pads of my thermistor (for the lack of a better name) as you can see in within the pink circle in the attached image. Is there a way to repair this or does it mean buying a new heatbed? Many ...

mhackney wrote:Don't take risks with a fake or knockoff. David Crocker is in the UK and he has a source for a couple of parts on his blog I recall. I'll take a look.

Thanks mhackney, let me know if you come across anything

I am in the process of rewiring by RAMBo because of a fried wire which caused by RAMBo to fail. I have been reading a lot on the forums and this seems to be quite a common issue. The post I have been following is this: http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=9892 They suggested the Auberins ...

Thanks Xenocrates very helpful info, so I have attached a quick diagram of how I think it's supposed to be wired, let me know if I have understood you correctly?

I'm still a bit of a newbie so it's going to seem like I'm asking some really basic stuff! I like the SSR option, so where do I start from a fried wire with this option. First step strip the insulation and cut off the damaged wire then connect that into the SSR then have another wire coming off that ...

I was in the middle of preheating my heated bed to 90 degrees ready for a Nylon print, when it reached about 70 degrees it just died and the temperature started plummeting. After opening up and investigating I found the red wire that connects to the RAMBO controller had fried, about 10mm of ...

Xenocrates whats a good retraction and travel speed?

I have wired up and installed the fan to the shroud but the fan is not spinning even after I have turned the fan on, on the control settings in MC. In the manual it states "If it's not blowing air, you've likely connected the wires backwards. :) Correct it and try again." Does this mean I have got ...

Thanks @TheIrishScion @Windshadow.. it is a bit of an ego builder from SeeMeCNC, we will see how the rest of the prints come out. In regards to the cobweb is it a matter of the filament choice or will it happen anyway and its a matter of cleaning up?

I have finished my build and I have finally got round to printing my PEEK fan shroud.This is the second print I have ever done with the Rostock and was wondering what you guys thought of the print quality. If you have any tips, tricks and advice to how I can improve the print quality. As you can see ...

What do you use? Because I think my issue lies with matter control and the communication with the printer.. do you recommend a better software?

Thanks for the quick reply @mhackney , how is it that I can change the communication speed in the firmware and MC?

Thanks for you're help so far however I keep discovering more problems in my calibration process I will list these out and post a video - Their is still limited communication with the printer and matter control. What I mean by that is I'm able to adjust the temperature of the bed and extruder fine ...

I'm also receiving this message now

So I have issued an m119 command. Can anyone tell if this is normal behavior from the Rostock? How is the printer supposed to respond when you press the x, y, z values in movement controls?

http://sendvid.com/6lp5n9w8

another video voiced over this time

So what I was trying to demonstrate in the video is how I cant freely keep on homing within matter controls, i can do it once or twice then I'm not able to unless I disconnect the machine and re-connect it. As well as the homing issue I don't seem to have any other control over the individual axis ...

here is a video that might better describe it
http://sendvid.com/5mf3trdl

I tried -Z first with no effect

I'm nearly towards the end of my build, few more steps to go..but I'm having issues in MatterControl and within the movement controls. When I select the home button so the x,y,z arms return to their home position it works once maybe twice. Then if I leave it and press the home button nothing happens ...