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Ugh, I just noticed my belts are chewed up on 2 of the 3 - bad enough they need replacement. I can tell this is from printing large objects causing the print head to come in contact with the bed far too often over this past year. When will it F!#@ING end?? I'm really getting sick of all these issues ...

bubbasnow wrote:update to .91

Easier said than done. I'd rather not open that can of worms. I've already gotten this far.

My question was - where is the Alpha A, B, and C in the PolygonHell Firmware (Repetier 0.81)

I dug up some notes I took while I was adjusting the tower rotations. This may help you to figure out my thought process. It's pretty in-depth. The idea is to examine not only the towers, but the arc BETWEEN the towers, because problems often manifest right there. For each iteration, I printed out ...

Can I just reply, WOW! There has been a LOT of activity on this thread. Thanks for everyone's input - hopefully it will help. I'm still waiting on a replacement 40watt heating core and need to install that before I can even BEGIN to parse through all this information. I'll be sure to read through ...

Ha ha awesome. I too have been thinking about the orion. But for now, I still have a Prusa i2 sitting on my bench waiting to be scrapped and built into a bigger better machine - but I haven't found the right printer design to build next...... Leaning towards the Lulzbot Taz, but I'm in no hurry, so ...

I can do you one better, I have a max that is from the original kickoff deal and have yet to print a part on it. Started out as acrylic that cracked, replaced it with a wood kit and between my bad back disability and all the new projects I never have made a print. Someday...... Omf, yeah, that's ...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-Ceramic-Cartridge-Heater-3D-Printer-12V-40W-Prusa-Mendel-Reprap-J-Head-USA-/111115455379?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19deff4b93 http://www.ebay.com/itm/12v-40w-Heater-Cartridge-for-Reprap-3D-Printer-Hot-End-FREE-SHIPPING-US-stocked-/201010022912?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0 ...

For sure that is going to melt your effector platform. After scanning Ebay it looks like 6mm X 20mm is the standard for 40 watt and all the 20 watt I could find. You may have a tough time finding one shorter than 20mm. Perhaps using shorter spacers you could lower the hotend so that the cartridge ...

Just a refresher - I still don't have this printer fully calibrated (I swear I'm about to drive over to Blackpoint engineering with my printer and request their assistance calibrating it!) Anyway, I upgraded from the original power resistors to a single ceramic heat core (30watt purchased from ...

Thank you!!

I'll try to dig into this when I have time over the next week and see if I can try to resolve my issue.

Hi Everyone, Still trying unsuccessfully to get my Rostock MAX calibrated so I can use it to it's fullest extent. I'm still having issues with getting the bed fully level. I have adjusted the endstops countless times, and have finally calibrated the printer_radius setting to adjust for the slight ...

I am an absolute noob: Question about tower rotation... do you mean a rotation of one compared to another? like a twist or torsion? This is my problem now. Or do you mean there isn't even spacing between the towers? or 1 or more towers are rotated so that one face does not aim directly to the ...

I suspected as much.

What speed should i have the fan set to? 100%?

Here is the cartridge I purchased - https://www.hotends.com/index.php?route ... duct_id=91 - 30 watt

I've been following your thread, not sure how much help I can offer. This machine is such a delicate balance between mechanical and digital it's hard to pin it down when something is off. My first instinct in your case is to (and I know you don't want to hear this) go back through and triple check ...

In addition to my continuing issue with leveling the bed through calibrating tower rotation (see other thread), I have been having a strange issue. Previously I had been using two power resistors and a fan mounted between the X and Z rails on the platform (blowing directly on a spacer, not on the ...

Help??

Hoping to get at least SOMETHING printed before christmas for someone, ha ha ha

Just a followup. I purchased replacement arms and carriage u-joints from SeeMeCNC and sanded those perfect (or damn near, if they're still a problem, i'll sand abit more). I think that resolves my Delta-Arm-Blues problems. But that didn't resolve my other issue with the bed. It took me a bit of work ...

just a sanity check, have you made sure that your glass is actually perfectly flat? I've purchased borosilicate glass before that wasn't actually flat. Yes, I have checked the bed, it's flat enough to not be causing the issue I'm seeing. I have run through the complete calibration process included ...

Just an update Added some Kapton to the remaining areas of the Onyx to properly level the bed - I can see this made a slight difference in the bed. But when I tried to print, it was horrible - still way too far from the bed. I think I need to run through the delta radius calibration steps in the ...

I had this problem until I fixed two things, hopefully they will be able to help you. 1) The instructions say to place a piece of kapton tape on the onyx heat bed where the metal is exposed, I found that it adds a very small bump that actually causes the glass to act slightly like a 'teeter totter ...

Are you talking about the G0 Z0 X-45 Y-77.94 F2000 instructions for adjusting the endstops? Yes, I have - at all 3 rails, the bed is perfectly level.

But between the X and Z rails, and the Y and Z rails, there appears to be a highspot on one side, and a low spot on the other side.

Yikes! And I thought that the smoke was normal Have you EVER watched a video of a 3D printer in action? Have you ever seen smoke? Nothing except for a smoke machine should produce smoke in normal operating conditions! The dangerous part about these 3D printers is the fact we are running these units ...

I've done everything possible to level the bed itself. I think the cause is something related to the arms or the top of the printer. Is there any other reason why some areas of my bed are up to 400micron higher than other parts??

Hmm, just tried that (raised temp to 70C to ensure the bed warps) Trying a 6 hour vase print right now - has a 120mm base - doesn't look like it's going to stick for the full time, but we'll see. Any other suggestions? I'm seriously considering posting this for sale and using the funds to buy an ...

See attached image for example of what happens. Here's a 150mm round calibration print. If you look between the X and Y rails near the front of the print, you can see how the extruded plastic is perfectly round, not smudged into the bed. While the right side of the picture you can clearly see the ...