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The original part cooling fans put out an immense amount of air and can cool the bed. Check to see if they are turning on part way in to the print job

After your first couple layers does the part fan turn on? I find the default part fan to give too much cooling and actually cools my base down enough to cause the dreaded DEF you are seeing.

I have blown 2 fuses by not being careful and turning off my printer when I am done using it at temp. You must be mindful of this fact and probably avoid shutting the thing off until the hot end reaches ~90C. On the plus side, I have gotten pretty good at replacing components on the hot end without ...

When you start up the printer, what are the temperatures that it reads before it goes DEF?

After doing significantly more experimenting, I have come to the conclusion that the end-stop screw problem you are seeing comes from a bad calibration run. Occasionally the calibration routine would do a bad tap but not bad enough to reject it entirely and that is when the problems occured. Make ...

Are the part cooling fans turning on? I have noticed that the part cooling fans provide enough cooling and airflow that they will drop the temperature of my bed and cause a heater error. I was able to fix this using the lower profile fans for the slim enclosure here or just closely monitoring the ...

This is what I expected the problem to be yet it only occurs when using KISSlicer. With MatterControl or S3D I do not have this problem come up at all, if it wasn't for that, I wouldn't be nearly as confused.

Ill recheck the wire whip connector again just to make sure though.

When you home the platform, do your steppers stutter after all 3 hit their respective endstops before completely coming to a stop? This was the big problem I was having during my initial setup. This was causing any changes made to my endstop screws to be completely ignored after a home. I cant say ...

I made an attempt to work with KISSlicer using your profile and I seem to be having issues with the temperature of the hotend crashing about ~3 minutes into the print and causing throwing an error about a disconnected heater. I can do the same print using s3d without any issues. Any idea what the ...

Are you running the calibration with a cold hot end? I kept getting issues on the x-tap with I ran it at temp.

Did you change the value for the correct printer? I initially had a problem there and iirc there is a MIN_DEFECT_TEMPERATURE for each of the 5 possible printers.

Would you mind posting your configuration files for KISSlicer? I found your old ones posted back in 2013 ( http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=15&t=1452 ) and if those have not changed than I'll go with that but I figure since that was probably done on your highly modded V1 something may have ...

I use Octoprint and it hasn't caused my any problems until now. As for the slicer, I gave up on MatterControl for anything other than laying the piece flat on the build plate and swapped to s3d. I had this issue because I calibrated in the middle of the summer on a really hot day and the A/C wasn't ...

I have recently been having a problem where when I assign a temperature to the hot end, it holds at about 5°C below the value I have issued. For example, if I am asking for 225°C at the hot end, the controller dances around 220°C and never starts the print. There isn't an issue with the heater being ...

I was having issues with the leveling part of things and it was definately related to my endstop screws. In attempt to solve this, I was going through the v2 user manuals method of endstop screw adjustment and things were going well. Somewhere in the process I must have reset the z height to the top ...

I am having the same issue on my bed, the area between the X and Z towers is higher than the other points around the bed. I have confirmed this by breaking out my calipers and checking the bed heights using that and found about a .15mm height difference depending on where along the diameter I ...

Hey everyone, I have finished building my printer and so far everything appears to be working without issue. I have now begun to add in the raspi3 addon kit to the printer to allow for remote printing using OctoPrint and I believe I have it working just fine now. I am trying to get rid of the ...

The screw should be 3/4" long - if it's not, bug SeeMeCNC about it. :) Some of the early kits may have gone out using the pre-packed carriages for the v2, and those screws were only 3/8" or so. g. I did find the note to remove the silver tabs so that wasn't a problem I had to deal with. I managed ...

I am not sure exactly of how to take that picture, there is almost no room and zero light that actually see whats happening but I will make some attempts.

Hey everyone. I am a first time printer builder who just finished the V3 printer. Unfortunately I seem to be having an issue with the flat head screws on the carriages engaging the limit switches. I initially noticed the the screws were tilted back away from the carriages and suspected that might ...